hughy_cdhonda

G'day from Australia, I bought a 94 CD accord a few months ago and everything is fantastic apart from it stalling. It's an auto and it only seems to do it when it gets hot (about 30mins driving from cold), never does it cold. The only way I can get around this problem is to put it in neutral as I'm nearing to a halt. If I've stopped and leave it in drive with my foot on the brake as you nomally do, it will start shuddering for a few secs then stall. It does it with the A/C on or off, no error codes coming up either. I've spoken to a couple of mechanics and they said to replace the lock solenoids for starters which I did.
I've sprayed brake cleaner around all hoses for vacuum leaks. No problems.
Replaced the lock solenoids, Checked/cleaned the IACV, checked the little breather valve from the rocker cover, checked all fuses, also have borrowed another transmission computer but no difference. The car never gets hot. Hoping it's not the transmission. I went to a tranny mechanic and he said it will cost me about $3000 to rebuild it and that's a lot of dough for anyone. Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks very much.

Vin No. JHMCD56400C005354
270,000 k's on clock

poorman212

G'day mate...sorry, best I could do....and that is sad.

Anyway, when it stalls, what lights are on in the dash? There are a few things that are suspect, TESTING is key here. I'm going to list the order of testing IMO based upon your description.

If there is a lack of spark - never said if it re-started right away. The ICM/ignitor or the ign coil could be going. Then electrical part of the key switch -not the part where the key goes, the electric part behind that - could be an issue.

When you go to re-start, again assuming it will not re-start right away. Does the CEL come on for a few seconds and then go off. Main relay could be getting hot and giving out.

EGR port cleaning. Look in the FAQ for a guide. While there pull and clean the EGR valve as well.

When was the last time is had a tune up? Maybe I sould have asked this first.

hughy_cdhonda

Hey thanks for the useful info. I haven't had the car looked at as yet, but the last service was about 5000k's ago. When it stalls, it restarts straight away no problems at all. The only lights on the dash that are up when it stalls are the battery, oil and handbrake as if you had the key on accessories. What I did notice is that when I'm in neutral and then put it into drive (the car jerks forward naturally), then maybe 3 secs later I feel it jerk again and this is when it starts to struggle and stall. It's weird, I never feel that second "jerk" when the engine is cold and thus it won't stall. What I did notice is that after my attempt of cleaning the IACV, I can drive the car a lot longer than the usual half hour before it starts this stalling business, I drove an hour yesterday in heavy traffic before it did. However when reading the FAQ's it says to pull the IACV out completely and thoroughly clean it, I only undid the bolts and tried cleaning it with the hoses etc still attched. Maybe it would make a difference if I properly cleaned it? I'm going to clean the egr ports and the valve now and see what happens. Thanks a lot for your help and I'll post as soon as I've test driven it after cleaning.

poorman212

Clean the insode of the tb while you are there. There are two ports, left hand side as you look into it with the butterfly open, that you'll want to be sure to spray those out.

Please let us know how it works out...

hughy_cdhonda

Cleaned the IACV properly aswell as the TB, it runs a lot smoother and it is not stalling now but only just.. It starts shuddering as usual and just when you think it's going to stall the idle starts pulsing (from nearly stalling rpm to about 1000rpm), it goes up and down about 3 times until levelling off at normal idle. So cleaning those parts has definietly made a big difference since it doesn't satll now. I also went through the DIY section on cleaning the EGR ports but my engine doesn't seem to have an EGR setup on it, it's just a straight forward inlet manifold with no signs of any egr ports. I did pull the fuel rail off though, and I cleaned where the injectors go into the head which was badly carboned up.

poorman212

See this write up-maybe the same as what is in the FAQ....he used to visit this site.

http://www.freewebs.com/hondadude/95...5AccordEGR.htm

About 4 pics in is what you are looking for. If you car doesn't have this set up, can you take a pic of the same area and post it?

hughy_cdhonda

The link you posted doesn't seem to work. It took me a while to work out how to post pics but here they are and hope they work. Another thing I read up about is cleaning the FICV which I haven't done yet but will try tomorrow if it will help.

http://img28.imageshack.us/i/041qz.jpg/
http://img716.imageshack.us/i/042seq.jpg/

poorman212

Dang, didn't know they make them without this, cool.

But with that being out of the picture then I'd have to go back to the IAC and the FITV

hughy_cdhonda

Thanks mate, will let you know if it anything changes after cleaning the FITV