Texspace

I have a 96 Honda Civic DX that was giving me a random cylinder misfire code. I noticed that when the engine was started it missed out pretty bad, but as soon I gave it a little gas it smoothed out and ran fine. I decided to do a compression test yielding the following results:

Cyl 1 180
Cyl 2 165
Cyl 3 170
Cyl 4 175

This is all within specs as far as I can tell. The major problem I have now is that the car will not start. There is no fire at the spark plugs. All I did was remove the spark plugs and attach my compression tester to each cyl and check compression then replace the plugs and it would not start. I have checked all grounds and fuses and they are good. I have tested for bat voltage in the distributor and it is there on both wires. I have even replaced the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Still no fire. There are no new codes indicating any new issues since I did this. There is fuel on the plugs after I try and start the engine so i know the fuel system is functioning.

I am completely lost on this one, so if there is anyone out there that has some insite I would greatly appreciate it.

deadline

is your firing order right on the spark plug wires ?

frankenghia

check your icm and coil inside the distributor.

Former User

You will more often than not blow the coil if you crank the engine with the plug wires disconnected, unless you disable spark for example by removing the 15A ECU hood fuse or by disconnecting the distributor plug.

Texspace

@deadline The firing order is most definatly correct. Even if it were not there would still be spark.

I suspect that RonJ@HT is correct. I probably blew out the coil. I did not disable the coil before performing the compression test.

I greatly appreciate the speedy responses. I will replace the coil and let you guys know what happens. Thank you very much!

Former User

The FAQs sticky has a diagram for resistance testing the coil.

Texspace

Alright so I have replaced the coil and there is still no fire. This tells me that the induction coil is bad. Hopefully I am wrong but either way I think this is not good.
Please Help! I am so screwed if I can't get this fixed adn I am freakin out here. I appreciate any insight once again.

Thank You!

Former User

Did you first test the coil before replacing it? If not, don't repeat this type of costly mistake.

1) Does the fuel pump prime?
2) Check whether the Yel/Blk wire attached to the coil and ICM has battery voltage with the key in ON(II).
3) Remove the ICM and have it tested at an auto parts store.

dorkzracing

iTrader: (1)

samething just happened to me, it was my ICM

Texspace

Well I am almost ready to give up here. I have done all of the tests you suggested and then some and I have not been able to identify the problem. I now have a new ICM, new coil, new plugs, new wires, new cap, and new rotor. Since I replaced the ICM it now sounds a little different. It almost tries to fire but just won't start. Let me elaborate:

When I crank the engine it will turn over and the compression stroke sounds labored. After cranking fopr a few seconds if I open the throttle all the way it will make a sound like it is trying to fire. This only happens on one or two strokes then it goes back to sounding like there is no fire at all. I have double checked the fireing order and all points of contact such as plugs, wiring harness, etc. Could it be that the PCM has gone bad or maybe a crank or cam shaft sensor? I don't know, but I think I'm screwed here. If anyone has anymore info it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise can anyone recommend a good mechanic in the Houston, TX area?

Thank You in advance to anyone that takes time to answer my post.

Texspace

I just went out and double checked that there is fuel. I cranked the enngine then removed a spark plug and it is wet with fuel. I am freaking out a little. I just don't know what else to do.

Former User

Do you have a multimeter? If so, you can solve this problem without a mechanic. All four plugs still lack spark, right?

Have you done all the input tests detailed below (from FAQs sticky)? Be sure to test the Yel/Grn wire for a short or open. If all those tests are fine, the next step is to swap in a known good ECU to see whether spark is restored.