Oasis4U2NV

I have a 2002 Honda Civic LX and when I turn on the A/C or heat, no air comes out on any setting. I do hear the A/C compressor kick in so I figured it's gotta be something to do with the blower motor, fuse/relay, resistor/transistor or wiring. So I took apart the glove box and took the fan out but left everything connected. When I turn the key in ignition from the initial Lock (0) position to position (I), I can see the fan shake/jerk a tiny bit. I would think that means that power is getting to it, but something else is going on. So far I have tried hooking the blower motor directly to the battery and it works fine. I also tried a new relay in the fuse box under the hood and that made no difference. I'm wondering what the next thing to check would be. I don't want to go spend $50-$75 on a new resistor if that's not the issue. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Aaron

It Wasn't Me

Have you checked fuse #14 (10 amp) under the dash?

What about checking for HVAC DTC's? You can do this by following this DIY from the FAQ's..
If there are no codes, and the fuse is okay, try the following. (skip 1, though)


Wire side of female terminals


1. Check the #14 (10 amp) fuse in the under-dash fuse box.

Is the fuse okay?

Yes - Go to step 2
No - Replace the fuse and recheck.


2. Disconnect heater control panel connector A. (14-Pin)

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II)

4. Measure the voltage between terminal #14 and a ground.

Is there battery voltage?

Yes - Go to step 5
No - Repair open in the wire between the #14 fuse in the under-dash fuse box and the heater control panel.


5. Turn the ignition OFF.

6. Check for continuity between terminal #13 and a ground.

Is there continuity?

Yes - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel connector A. If the connections are good, swap the heater control panel with another one and recheck. If the problem goes away with a different control panel, keep it.

No - Check for an open in the wire between the heater control panel and body ground. If the wire is okay, check for a poor ground at G502.

tonee_

I had the exact same problem a few weeks ago. I tried this and it worked perfectly fine after!

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-2001-2005-78/diy-how-fix-ac-power-transistor-2041582/

Oasis4U2NV

Thanks for the info everyone. I will check most of these things when I get off work later tonight or tomorrow. It Wasn't Me, I did look at the fuse diagram for under the dash and #14 is 10A but says it's for the R/C Mirror. I'm not sure how that's related to the air blower. Maybe my #14 on mine isn't the same as what you're referring to. I haven't had a chance to check to see if the fuse is bad or not.


Aaron

Oasis4U2NV

tonee_,

I looked at those steps, and I do have a multimeter but I can't find the instruction manual. Do you know what setting I would put it on to test those things?

Aaron

It Wasn't Me

The #14 fuse under the dash is for the A/C compressor fan relay, Blower motor relay, Climate control unit, Condenser fan relay, Heater control panel, Power mirror actuators, Radiator fan relay, Recirculation control motor, and Rear window defogger relay.

It Wasn't Me

http://www.ehow.com/how_2043011_use-multimeter.html


You can also look up the website of the company that manufactured your DMM. They likely have a downloadable user's manual.

Oasis4U2NV

It's a Digital Multimeter made by GE, model GE2524, so far I haven't been able to find the manual online but I know I have in my room somewhere...just cluttered in here. Thanks for the URL and wow, that 1 fuse handles all those things? Is there info about these what these fuses actually handle in the owners manual for the car?


Aaron

Oasis4U2NV

Ok, I pulled fuse #14 under dash and it looks fine. It doesn't seem to be broken or burnt. I don't have another one to try right now but I can go buy some if you think I should change it. Where do I find that Heater Control Panel Connector?

It Wasn't Me

Behind the heater control panel, of course.


The center piece that contains the radio, the heat/ac/directional dials, and the ac/recirc/defogger buttons needs to be removed.

Use this DIY from the FAQ's, it shows you how to remove it.

Then just unplug the 14-pin heater control panel connector. (the heat/ac/directional dials are the heater control panel)

Oasis4U2NV

It Wasn't Me...do you know how I can check the continuity of the blower motor resistor? I have my multimeter set to 200 on the Ohms section. I checked the continuity of the blower motor itself by connecting positive to positive & negative to negative & got a good reading. The resistor has 4 connectors though & I'm not sure how to check it properly. I can only get a reading by connecting the probes to 2 specific connectors, but I get no reading at all when I try the other connectors on the resistor. I haven't had a chance to go through all the steps you've suggestion yet as I've been pretty busy the past week & it hasn't been hot enough outside for me to bother with it. I am planning on following your troubleshooting steps soon though, maybe even within the next hour or 2. But if you have any suggestions on checking to see if the resistor is working &/or at least has continuity, it's very much appreciated.


Aaron

It Wasn't Me

This should help ..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q--XNxN5nBU

Oasis4U2NV

It Wasn't Me...I followed the info in that video to test the resistor and it tests properly, came up as 1497 Ohms. Next step would be to test the blower motor with my multimeter I suppose. Any idea what the Ohms reading should show?

It Wasn't Me

Have you checked the #12 (40 amp) fuse under the hood? What about the blower motor relay?



Fuse #12 (40 amp) is located just under the blower motor relay. There are two square fuses, you want the one on the left, directly under the relay.


If the fuse is okay, connect a jumper wire to the #2 terminal wire (blue/black) on the blower motor connector and ground the other end. Turn your ignition on. The blower motor should run.

Oasis4U2NV

Do you mean the #12 terminal wire?

It Wasn't Me

The blower motor connector only has two terminals.


The #12 reference is for the fuse under the hood.

Oasis4U2NV

I did purchase & put in a new blower motor relay and it made no difference. I have not checked #12 fuse yet but I am not sure that it would have anything to do with my issue as the blower doesn't turn on in normal, A/C or heat mode at any speed position.


Aaron

Oasis4U2NV

Ok, I took out all those fuses & relays you've mentioned so far and tested their continuity with my multimeter. They all give me a numbered Ohm reading of some kind. On the bigger fuses/relays that have 4 connectors, I was only able to get a reading on the ones that are light gold in color. The others that are copper didn't give any reading. After I get off work in 40 minutes, I'm going to go out and try to test some of the wiring.


Aaron

Oasis4U2NV

One thing I was wondering is, when I look under steering wheel near the middle column, it see these connector that's not connected to anything. Any ideas what it is and if that could have anything to do with this issue?

It Wasn't Me

That has nothing to do with the heat, A/C, etc.

That is the DLC (data link connector) primarily used to read codes stored in the ECU, and/or is used to communicate with the ECU. I don't suggest playing with it.

Oasis4U2NV

Ok, ya I didn't think it was anything to worry about, but wanted to make sure. I'm not sure I'm going to have time to take apart the middle console until this weekend if even then. Is there anything else I can test other than the Heater Control Panel Connector inside there?

It Wasn't Me

There are only a few things that will prevent the blower motor from working, and they've pretty well been covered already.

- Blown fuse
- Bad relay
- Bad power transistor
- Bad blower motor
- Faulty heater control panel

Or the possibility of a loose connection, or an open wire somewhere.

I recommend you buy a Helm's manual. http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...C01&itemtype=N

It will save you some guesswork in the future. If you don't want to buy a new one, search craigslist or ebay for a used one.

Oasis4U2NV

Is there any difference between this guide and the repair manual I have made by Haynes?

Aaron

It Wasn't Me

Helm's is what they use at the dealership. (so I've heard)



I've never seen or used the Haynes manual.

Considering that the Haynes covers 2001-2010 Civics, in addition to the 2002-2009 CR-V, I'm willing to wager that the Helm's is better.
The Helm's manual is specific to our cars, and has nearly 1,500 pages of information. (according to the site)

I don't like the fact that Haynes combines so many different years, along with other makes, all into one book.

Oasis4U2NV

The Hayne's guide that I have is for 2001-2004. It's about 200 pages or so. It doesn't really have any troubleshooting steps, just tells you how to take everything apart. I still have some things to check that you suggested. When I get a chance to, I will let you know what I found out.

Thanks,
Aaron