migs

This is especially designed for B2FiNiTy who has an RS and wants to convert to ITR spec

These instructions WILL APPLY to an EG chassis

Hopefully, this will end most questions pertaining to "how do I do 5lug on my Integra" I just felt like making a graphic tutorial and detailed instructions on how to convert your suspension, to the ITR 5x114.3 suspension (Note: EG chassis are all the same except you must use an ITR or Integra E brake cable.).

<u>Whats needed:</u>

ITR 5 Lug: Front knuckles, calipers, rotors, rear trailing arms with rotors, calipers. Optional: JDM/USDM rear lower LCA's. By switching to the ITR LCA, you must use ITR shocks. Note; You can still utilize your original E brake cable.

Brake Fluid: I bought 2 big bottles of Valvoline Synpower (32fl oz)

EDIT NOTE: Do yourself a favor and get your fluid FLUSHED, not bled, from a shop. The old fluid you have needs to be changed out anyway

<u>Tools Needed:</u>

I think everybody in here knows that you use 10, 12, 14, 17, and 32 (spindle nut) frequently on ANY Honda or Acura. Collect yourself a variety of different socket sizes and wrenches. Some needle nose pliers would be nice too. A breaker bar is a plus. A small sledge hammer is required. Dont use dads old nail hammer cause that will break and wont cut it.

If you have power tools, it will make it alot faster, especially trying to remove the large 32mm spindle nut. Please find yourself 4 jackstands and place them at your normal mounting spots. Note; Use the 36mm socket if you are going to use the JDM front knuckle

My instructions will start off assuming you have the wheels taken off and 4 jackstands have been already placed underneath the vehicle.

1) Remove the cotter pin (Green) and the 17mm bolt (Red) from the front knuckle. Pop the balljoint using the hammer. You must hit the area that is circled in Blue. Precision is a key, otherwise you could potentially damage unwanted areas



2) Remove the cotter pin (green, already removed) off of the lower knuckle ball joint and the 17mm nut (red). Pop the balljoint by hitting the blue area with the hammer.



3) Remove all the tiny 10mm (yellow) bolts,. These bolts will free up ABS sensor trigger/wires (not pictured) and the brake line bracket. The 14mm banjo bolt (green) will need to be removed, keep all the old washers for later use or if you have new ones, use those.



4) Remove the 17mm bolt (red) that holds the tie rod end and pop the ball joint by hitting the blue area.



5) Take off the 32mm spindle nut (black).



At this point, the entire front knuckle is REMOVEABLE. Please be careful when taking off because it is heavy, do not hurt yourself. You can figure out yourself to put the 5lug back on.

1) Lets start in the back by removing the 14mm bolt (green) that holds the rear trailing arm in ALIGNMENT. By looking at this, you will NOW understand how shop sets your rear toe.



2) Remove the (2) 17mm bolts (red) and the (2) 12mm (lt blue) E brake cable mounting brackets.




3) Remove the 14mm bolt (red) that holds the trailing arm to the UPPER "dogbone." Your dogbone will not look like mine because I have a rear camber kit, unless you have one too.



4) Remove the (2) tiny 10mm bolts that hold the rear caliper shield. (NOT SHOWN). Then, pull the locking pin (green) out and remove the OTHER pin out as well (lt purple). This will free your E brake cable, make sure you pull it out entirely. This is so you can remove the trailing arm freely.



5) Remove the banjo bolt, 14mm (red). Keep the washers unless you have new ones.



6) Finally, remove the LAST 14mm bolt (red) located on the bottom of the trailing arm and the outbound side of the REAR LCA. You have completed the removal of the rear trailing arm. Be very careful when pulling off the trailing arm, it is heavy and you dont want it to drop on your leg.





[Modified by Migs, 8:40 PM 3/4/2003]

Big Teggie

Nice tutorial


[Modified by Big Teggie, 12:39 PM 3/4/2003]

emr88

Wow, great tutorial!
The finned NSX calipers

One question though, I thought I read somewhere that the JDM axles/spindles are 36mm, is that correct? If so, are they (JDM axles) a direct bolt-on?

Also, a recommendation, perhaps an alternative to #2. Having performed an engine/trans swap on an EG this weekend, I found two tools that came in handy. Thread here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=430806
The Sears Impact driver mentioned in the thread above and the Harbor Freight 'small' tie rod puller
Click to see pic at Harbor Freight.com
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/pho...6899/36861.gif

We were able to use this 'tie rod puller' to easily loosen the lower ball joint. We simply loosened the lower ball joint nut (but kept it in place) then put the tie rod puller in place. A couple of turns and it released the ball joint-EASY! We didn't need a BFH for this, which was nice to reduce the risk of damaging the ball joint. Not sure if this tool would work for the upper ball joint, but it worked very well for the lower on an EG.




[Modified by emr88, 10:08 AM 3/4/2003]

IC x Prince

nice instructions...

Kryptonite

damn nice instructions H-T should have a DIY/FAQ post

Austin

Damn Migs....

SonicBlueGSR

Very good tutorial. Its great how you circled and colored everything!

Fuuma0083

great tutorial

Eva01

Very nice DIY Migs!

Comp97GSR

Nice Migs.... now for the $1,000,000 question. For those of us with JDM axles, what hub nut will we need to get if the hub nuts were not included in our swaps?

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

That's awesome!

You have IM

tC_Dragon

damn good post... this ones gettin bookmarked

migs

Wow, I wish I could hold you against the $1,000,000 question.

Use a hub nut from a later model Prelude or Accord. Nothing Pre 90.

Comp97GSR

Thanks, do you take paypal

Seedc2

iTrader: (1)

cool.

Armed Ferret

and once again we leave out the DA integra.

just because it's an integra doesn't mean it's a DC you guys.....


here's the link to the instructions for this mod on the DA chassis.

http://www.jarofbees.com/tech/da_5lug/

Armed Ferret

hahaha......eff j00 man!!!

racerfan

very clear instructions migs

Armed Ferret

here's a little info for those interested in the swap, straight off passwordjdm.com:

JDM ITR 98spec 5 lug 5x114.3 32mm suspension swap w/wheels & tires $1649.00 plus shipping -incl:frnt knuckle assemblies w/brake components, rear trailing arms w/brake components, a set of 16" JDM ITR CW wheels/tires. not incl: brake lines, lug nuts, axles, lower control arms(LCA), sway bars, or installation instructions.

JDM ITR 98spec 5 lug 5x114.3 32mm suspension swap $999.00 plus shipping -incl:frnt knuckle assemblies w/brake components, rear trailing arms w/brake components, not incl: wheels/tires, brake lines, lug nuts, axles, lower control arms(LCA), sway bars, or installation instructions. -will fit EG or DC stock axles.

good pricing if you ask me.

stick

thanks

whats the next proverbial "how-to"?

i recommend changing out brake pads and bleeding the brake fluid.

or ABS flush

or anything this is required on the scheduled maintenance.

migs

Slowteg, I will have to STRONGLY disagree with passwordJDM. The 98+ JDM ITR does NOT come with a 32hub nut. That is WRONG and will NEVER be right. Maybe they are just switching out the front hubs with the CTR, because CTR is 32mm.

Cant do an ABS flush "How To" because I dont have ABS.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

so basically the wheels and tires adds $649 to the price. Still, a grand is still a LOT to pay for larger front brakes and an extra lug on each hub.

Armed Ferret

even fastbrakes' prices have increased, now they're upwards of what, like $800-$850 or somewhere in there for simply a front kit. this is all 4 corners, and provides PLENTY of stopping power for a street car. especially since mine doesn't have abs; going any bigger on calipers OR rotors will only end up in lots and lots of flat-spotted tires cluttering up my garage.

this swap also allows those of us with the much-neglected DA platform a chance to get some nice suspension options opened up as well.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

For $1018 you can get 11" front rotors w/ 4-pot calipers, plus 11" rear rotors that use the stock calipers, and all these fit under stock 15" wheels.

Armed Ferret

the problem being that our master cylinders (even abs m/c's) aren't really big enough to handle that big of a caliper. honestly, i wouldn't even upgrade to the NSX calipers unless i had a larger master cylinder.

edit: the ITR upgrade also has been done on a total of 2 90-93 integras that i've seen. so it'll be making my car that much more MINE.


[Modified by SlowRedTeg, 6:03 PM 3/6/2003]