how to remove the trans???
03-21-2011, 08:49 PM
#1
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how to remove the trans???
hey guys im reaching out to u guys once again!! so my reverse on my 94 honda accord went out do to overheating in the snow and now im looking to replace my trans. If anyone has instructions on how to remove my trans would be very great and tips would be great too! its a 94 honda accord ex automatic 2.2 vtec. help would be appreciated much!
03-22-2011, 10:19 AM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: how to remove the trans???
X2
if you're doing it yourself and you won't have someone beside you who's done a few (specifically..), the Helms will be your new best friend.
and it won't leave anything out like we may. 
i'm assuming it's an auto? tips..hmm. it's heavy so a trans. jack or good floor jack are a must.
be prepared to remove the axles. they don't have to come lose from the hub to get the trans out if the axle nut is a problem for you. the knuckles/uprights can be disconnected at the ball-joints and braced out of the way.
exhaust, shift linkage, trans. cooler lines, battery and battery tray, air intake snorkle and front cross-beam/radius arms are a few of the things that must be removed or detached to get the transaxle unbolted and out.
mounts may need to be realigned once the replacement transaxle is bolted to the engine even after the tail-end trans mount is bolted in place. i usually do this with a wood block and a jack somewhere around the differential bulge (where the axles go into the trans.
hope that helps. remember don't skimp on the Helms! other publisher don't measure up. Helms is best.
if you're doing it yourself and you won't have someone beside you who's done a few (specifically..), the Helms will be your new best friend.
and it won't leave anything out like we may. i'm assuming it's an auto? tips..hmm. it's heavy so a trans. jack or good floor jack are a must.
be prepared to remove the axles. they don't have to come lose from the hub to get the trans out if the axle nut is a problem for you. the knuckles/uprights can be disconnected at the ball-joints and braced out of the way.
exhaust, shift linkage, trans. cooler lines, battery and battery tray, air intake snorkle and front cross-beam/radius arms are a few of the things that must be removed or detached to get the transaxle unbolted and out.
mounts may need to be realigned once the replacement transaxle is bolted to the engine even after the tail-end trans mount is bolted in place. i usually do this with a wood block and a jack somewhere around the differential bulge (where the axles go into the trans.
hope that helps. remember don't skimp on the Helms! other publisher don't measure up. Helms is best.
03-22-2011, 11:19 AM
#4
MM Gruppe B
Re: how to remove the trans???
Tools
10, 12, 14, 17 mm wrenches are going to be your friends.
I also recommend this type of transmission jack...
With the '95 EX F22B1(USDM) AT I did the following.
Underhood
Have your radio code.
Remove hood.
Remove battery. Make sure it is charged or keep it on a trickle charger.
Remove battery tray.
Remove air box and related tubing. Place tape over TB opening
Unhook all electrical connections to the transmission(shift solenoid/speed sensor/ground cable)
Remove radiator fan(it gets in the way).
Remove transmission cooling lines from transmission, use a spare piece of tubing to loop the hard lines, plug the radiator soft lines.
Unhook the throttle valve cable.
Remove starter.
Loosen AT mount bolt, but leave in place for now.
Remove spark plug wires, and remove spark plugs, place a rag over the valve/cam cover to prevent debris from falling into the engine.
Outside
Remove hubcaps
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nuts, both sides. *EDIT: At the time of the original posting, I did remove the axles, I no longer do this. Simply cover the inner axle joints with plastic bags and hang the axles with sturdy wire. Do not let the axle weight hang off the outer joint, this will damage the CV outer axle housing./EDIT*
Jack the rear of the car up
Place rear wheels up on ramps or stable platforms. ~6" off the ground. Stacks of wood or bricks are not acceptable. *EDIT: At the time of the original posting, I did this for various reasons, I no longer do this. Just raise the front of the car high enough to clear the transmission and trans jack from under the car. Sneak it out past the P side wheel well to avoid having to clear the front bumper/bumper air dam./EDIT*
Set parking brake. Place the shifter into Neutral.
Loosen front lug nuts.
Jack front of car up and place on jackstands. I recommend four stands. Two under the subframes, and two up front under the radiator support corner(where the bolts are ). Place them so they all support the car level and with equal loads. And keep the car level. *EDIT: At the time of the original postingI did this as there were some other unknown issues the car had, I no longer use four, just two 4 ton stands at the front rocker jack points.EDIT*
Remove front wheels.
Underneath
Drain AT fluid.
Remove engine splash shield.
Remove center beam('94-'97)
Unhook front O2 sensor wiring(EX model)
Remove down pipe from manifold to catalytic converter.
Remove inspection cover.
Remove 'control wire'(shift cable)cover
Remove 'control wire'(shift cable).
Remove drive plate to torque converter bolts, eight of them. You will need to rotate the engine counter clock wise to get to all the bolts.
Spin the torque converter by itself and push it against the transmission case, away from the drive plate.
Pop the inboard joints of the Passenger and Driver side axles.
Reinstall transmission drain plug.
Front Passenger side
Remove large nut from strut rod.
Passenger Side
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove split pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Easy and painless way to seperate the lower ball joint Write up w / pics
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.
Between the fender lip and upper shock mount there will be a plastic plug, remove it.
With tie wire or twine, tie it around the front upper control arm, through the hole, and around the shock mount.
Support the weight of the knuckle and FUCA with the string/wire.
With a U joint and extension remove the two bolts attaching the strut rod to FLCA.
Remove Strut rod, and bushings. Reassemble the bushings, sleeve, washers and nut in the correct order.
NOTE: Odyessey(also Ody use a jack shaft to reduce torque steer, that will need to be removed prior to trans removal) and later Accords used a position sensor on the right lower cover of the transmission, you will have to remove this and its connection prior to removal of the transmission.
Driver Side
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove split pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Easy and painless way to seperate the lower ball joint Write up w / pics
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.
Between the fender lip and upper shock mount there will be a plastic plug, remove it.
With tie wire or twine, tie it around the front upper control arm, through the hole, and around the shock mount.
Support the weight of the knuckle and FUCA with the string/wire.
Underneath
Remove the four bolts attaching the engine to transmission.
Two will be used to attach the transmission to the engine mount via the differential housing.(where the Drive side axle installs)
IMPORTANT There will be a 'fifth' bolt that ONLY bolts to the engine, leave that bolt attached. This will support the engine when the transmission is removed.
There is also one bolt that is hard to see. I removed the oil filter for better line of sight.
Roll Transmission jack under transmission, secure it using straps.
Underhood
Remove the transmission mount bolt. It should come out easily, if it is too hard to turn, adjust jack so no tension is on this bolt. You may need to pry the bracket open with a pry bar to release the mount.
Remove remaining transmission to engine bolts.
I believe there are eight in total, four mount from the transmission side(underhood) and four from the engine side(underneath).
The transmission should easily pull away from the engine. If not check that you did not miss any brackets, wire harness, etc. DO NOT FORCE THE TRANSMISSION.
Underneath
Carefully lower the transmission.
When full down rotate the jack to allow the bellhousing to slide underneath the frame rail on the passenger side. This is where you will be extracting the transmission from. The P side.
Re-installation Preparation
Verify that both engine to transmission dowels are undamaged and installed in the engine.
With the replacement transmission, verify that the torque converters are of the same diameter. A different diameter TC will require a different drive plate.
Check the boots on your axles for checking/cracking. Reboot the axle if need be. This will extend the life of the axles.
Clean the engine to transmission bolts, check for any thread damage.
Apply a light coating of anti-seize to the threads.
Check your replacement transmission treads are clean.
If your replacement transmission came with cooler hard lines, make sure they are not bent/twisted. On imported transmissions these lines tend to get a bit mangled, verify that they have not been bent and then rebent. This will cause the tube to be crushed blocking flow.
If your existing lines need to be reused, clean them out, and purchase four 94109-12000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM). Don't try to reuse the old washers, they WILL leak and these fittings are just about impossible to get to when the transmission is installed in car.
Clean all mating surfaces of crud and oil.
Check that the oil seals on the differential are not damaged, lube with ATF.
Verify that all brackets applicable to your original transmission are on your replacement unit. Transfer all needed brackets to the replacement. Remove any unneeded brackets from the new transmission.
If a new trans, pour one quart directly into the TC snout.
If a used trans you probably will not need to, but if you do I would recommend a new TC O-ring before re-installation.
Make sure to flush the transmission cooler lines inside the radiator.
Installation
As cheesy as this sounds, it really is the reversal of removal.
The only difference is you will need to torque all the bolts to their respective settings. I don't have those numbers in front of me.
And make sure the Throttle Valve cable is adjusted correctly!!!
It should not have any slack in it, but you do not want it opening before the throttle opens either.
*After doing this a few times, I have not removed the axles from the hubs, just takes too much time/effort to remove install, have tie wire ready and a couple of bags to cover the inner tripod joints. Don't allow the axles to hang from the hubs, this will stress the outer CV axle housing and you will break the stud off in the hub.*
10, 12, 14, 17 mm wrenches are going to be your friends.
I also recommend this type of transmission jack...
With the '95 EX F22B1(USDM) AT I did the following.
Underhood
Have your radio code.
Remove hood.
Remove battery. Make sure it is charged or keep it on a trickle charger.
Remove battery tray.
Remove air box and related tubing. Place tape over TB opening
Unhook all electrical connections to the transmission(shift solenoid/speed sensor/ground cable)
Remove radiator fan(it gets in the way).
Remove transmission cooling lines from transmission, use a spare piece of tubing to loop the hard lines, plug the radiator soft lines.
Unhook the throttle valve cable.
Remove starter.
Loosen AT mount bolt, but leave in place for now.
Remove spark plug wires, and remove spark plugs, place a rag over the valve/cam cover to prevent debris from falling into the engine.
Outside
Remove hubcaps
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nuts, both sides. *EDIT: At the time of the original posting, I did remove the axles, I no longer do this. Simply cover the inner axle joints with plastic bags and hang the axles with sturdy wire. Do not let the axle weight hang off the outer joint, this will damage the CV outer axle housing./EDIT*
Jack the rear of the car up
Place rear wheels up on ramps or stable platforms. ~6" off the ground. Stacks of wood or bricks are not acceptable. *EDIT: At the time of the original posting, I did this for various reasons, I no longer do this. Just raise the front of the car high enough to clear the transmission and trans jack from under the car. Sneak it out past the P side wheel well to avoid having to clear the front bumper/bumper air dam./EDIT*
Set parking brake. Place the shifter into Neutral.
Loosen front lug nuts.
Jack front of car up and place on jackstands. I recommend four stands. Two under the subframes, and two up front under the radiator support corner(where the bolts are ). Place them so they all support the car level and with equal loads. And keep the car level. *EDIT: At the time of the original postingI did this as there were some other unknown issues the car had, I no longer use four, just two 4 ton stands at the front rocker jack points.EDIT*
Remove front wheels.
Underneath
Drain AT fluid.
Remove engine splash shield.
Remove center beam('94-'97)
Unhook front O2 sensor wiring(EX model)
Remove down pipe from manifold to catalytic converter.
Remove inspection cover.
Remove 'control wire'(shift cable)cover
Remove 'control wire'(shift cable).
Remove drive plate to torque converter bolts, eight of them. You will need to rotate the engine counter clock wise to get to all the bolts.
Spin the torque converter by itself and push it against the transmission case, away from the drive plate.
Pop the inboard joints of the Passenger and Driver side axles.
Reinstall transmission drain plug.
Front Passenger side
Remove large nut from strut rod.
Passenger Side
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove split pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Easy and painless way to seperate the lower ball joint Write up w / pics
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.
Between the fender lip and upper shock mount there will be a plastic plug, remove it.
With tie wire or twine, tie it around the front upper control arm, through the hole, and around the shock mount.
Support the weight of the knuckle and FUCA with the string/wire.
With a U joint and extension remove the two bolts attaching the strut rod to FLCA.
Remove Strut rod, and bushings. Reassemble the bushings, sleeve, washers and nut in the correct order.
NOTE: Odyessey(also Ody use a jack shaft to reduce torque steer, that will need to be removed prior to trans removal) and later Accords used a position sensor on the right lower cover of the transmission, you will have to remove this and its connection prior to removal of the transmission.
Driver Side
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove split pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Easy and painless way to seperate the lower ball joint Write up w / pics
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.
Between the fender lip and upper shock mount there will be a plastic plug, remove it.
With tie wire or twine, tie it around the front upper control arm, through the hole, and around the shock mount.
Support the weight of the knuckle and FUCA with the string/wire.
Underneath
Remove the four bolts attaching the engine to transmission.
Two will be used to attach the transmission to the engine mount via the differential housing.(where the Drive side axle installs)
IMPORTANT There will be a 'fifth' bolt that ONLY bolts to the engine, leave that bolt attached. This will support the engine when the transmission is removed.
There is also one bolt that is hard to see. I removed the oil filter for better line of sight.
Roll Transmission jack under transmission, secure it using straps.
Underhood
Remove the transmission mount bolt. It should come out easily, if it is too hard to turn, adjust jack so no tension is on this bolt. You may need to pry the bracket open with a pry bar to release the mount.
Remove remaining transmission to engine bolts.
I believe there are eight in total, four mount from the transmission side(underhood) and four from the engine side(underneath).
The transmission should easily pull away from the engine. If not check that you did not miss any brackets, wire harness, etc. DO NOT FORCE THE TRANSMISSION.
Underneath
Carefully lower the transmission.
When full down rotate the jack to allow the bellhousing to slide underneath the frame rail on the passenger side. This is where you will be extracting the transmission from. The P side.
Re-installation Preparation
Verify that both engine to transmission dowels are undamaged and installed in the engine.
With the replacement transmission, verify that the torque converters are of the same diameter. A different diameter TC will require a different drive plate.
Check the boots on your axles for checking/cracking. Reboot the axle if need be. This will extend the life of the axles.
Clean the engine to transmission bolts, check for any thread damage.
Apply a light coating of anti-seize to the threads.
Check your replacement transmission treads are clean.
If your replacement transmission came with cooler hard lines, make sure they are not bent/twisted. On imported transmissions these lines tend to get a bit mangled, verify that they have not been bent and then rebent. This will cause the tube to be crushed blocking flow.
If your existing lines need to be reused, clean them out, and purchase four 94109-12000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM). Don't try to reuse the old washers, they WILL leak and these fittings are just about impossible to get to when the transmission is installed in car.
Clean all mating surfaces of crud and oil.
Check that the oil seals on the differential are not damaged, lube with ATF.
Verify that all brackets applicable to your original transmission are on your replacement unit. Transfer all needed brackets to the replacement. Remove any unneeded brackets from the new transmission.
If a new trans, pour one quart directly into the TC snout.
If a used trans you probably will not need to, but if you do I would recommend a new TC O-ring before re-installation.
Make sure to flush the transmission cooler lines inside the radiator.
Installation
As cheesy as this sounds, it really is the reversal of removal.
The only difference is you will need to torque all the bolts to their respective settings. I don't have those numbers in front of me.
And make sure the Throttle Valve cable is adjusted correctly!!!
It should not have any slack in it, but you do not want it opening before the throttle opens either.
*After doing this a few times, I have not removed the axles from the hubs, just takes too much time/effort to remove install, have tie wire ready and a couple of bags to cover the inner tripod joints. Don't allow the axles to hang from the hubs, this will stress the outer CV axle housing and you will break the stud off in the hub.*
Last edited by MAD_MIKE; 02-08-2019 at 07:32 PM.
03-22-2011, 12:15 PM
#5
Re: how to remove the trans???
The cost to fix the trans is most likely more than the car is worth. Call a junkyard and have them pick it up. They will pay you 100-150 dollars for the car.
03-22-2011, 12:54 PM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: how to remove the trans???
B) he said he was looking to replace. good used auto box for this model is cheap and plentiful in most areas. paying a trans shop to rebuild would be the most expensive option and not necessarily the best.
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Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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