Enixero

Alright now for business. I am a proud owner of a 1995 Honda Accord Ex, F22b1 Engine, 5-speed.

First off the description...
1.) I start the car and it will automatically run at 1500 rpm most of the time
(the book says 650-750 normal).
2.) Sometimes it will run at "Normal" rpm speed.
3.) In first and second gear the car will bog down acting like its on drugs and
does not want to go and then it will catch on. In other words the car will
stumble on acceleration, but only when the car is cold. After 5 mins of
driving it it stops and acts like a normal car, but also still runs at 1500 rpm
average.
4.) SIDE NOTE: the car will sometimes not do this and just run normal but will
also stay at 1500 rpm avg. when clutch pressed or in neutral.

All replies are very deeply appreciated and will not be ignored. I will research the methods replied to me and apply them. And I very much appreciate anyone who reads or attempts to answer in the help of aiding me in my quest to fix my beast of a car.

FYI = My car has been lowered 2 inches. Other than that everything is stock at this moment.


-REVISION-EDIT-THINGS.....
1.) Sometime the engine light comes on and it normally comes on when the engine hits normal temp. (about 2 to 3 mins). Have yet to get it hooked up to see whats wrong, probably something minor. Will post back when i got info about it.

poorman212

What do you know about the "history" of the car. Did you recently get it. Some of the things descibed could be the sign general maint items needing attention (cap, rotor, plugs, insect wires, tb cleaning, ect).

Also, assuming there are no codes stored or CEL light on?

Cold idle is around 1500. It should then slowly drop to the base idle once it begins to warm up. Usually you'll hear about bouncing idle issues-your seach will turn up the IAC and FITV. Could someone have just set the base idle high to keep it from bouncing???? Seen stranger things before...so with that, think about the gen maint items. Look up the procedure for setting the base idle.

There are some places you can download a manual, if you don't already have one. Google or search for spoonertuner - I downloaded that one along with a Haynes and Chilton book-yes got both books.

Enixero

As far as the history of the car. My pastor of my church bought it from a used dealership "WAY" back and it had 30k miles on it i think, then he gave it to his daughter which in turn shes a car junkie, she took immaculate care for it. And then her husband used it for a "drive to work and back" car. So the car has been cared for. Then the car sat outside for maybe a a year. The reason it sat because the shift cables broke, I replaced them, changed the oil, replaced the thermostat, checked all levels, replaced a slave cylinder to the clutch to get the clutch working, Bought a battery for it, and she fired up right on the spot first time in a year ( that's a Honda for ya...). Other than that I'm fixing and upgrading and putting new parts in all the time every weekend. Last week I did both front rotors and put in new CV joints. About 600 bucks worth of labor that I saved....(pressed on rotors, I had to cut the hub nuts off because they had never been changed....230k miles....).

As for routine stuff I changed plugs and cleaned everything, the basics. I have a manual I bought its a Hyanes Manual one so that's taken care of.

Other have spoon fed me the idea that its a vacuum leak, and that may be true to an extent, but its just the way the car acts that makes that vacuum idea sound like nonsense.

If you could, reply to me a list of things in the order in which you would do and what you would check, I'll let you know what I've done and ill work on things you've notified me of to do or to check.

Thank you very much for your reply.
All other replies are greatly appreciated.

Jon Sr. 7418

My 95 was doing some wierd things at idle. I changed the throttle position sensor and everything returned to normal.

Brownjd

i would start with the iac and tps sensors

tommygun89hb

I think there is a fast idle valve ajustment but would wait for others to chime in my .02

Enixero

I'm am very appreciative of the responses. The first thing I've decided to do is give the throttle body a major cleaning and see what that does. Next will be the check of the IAC and TPS, also the FITV.
Will get back to everyone here and post the results later.

Enixero

I recently had some issues do to my mistake and also not of my mistakes lol...
Any-who I forgot to put a clamp all the way back on the hose that lead to the thermostat housing so it blew off, the next day ( after fixing the hose and low coolant problem) I found a hose (or it found me) that was squirting/gushing coolant out of it (so I had to fix it.... in a suit.... right before church...) and I found today on top of my radiator there is a crack ( which i have'nt fixed yet), Lord help us my car will be a new creature by the time i get done replacing everything on it...

Jmb106jr

First thing you need to do is find the Blue connector underneath the glove box w/ 2 wires coming out of it. Pull it out and take a paper clip and insert it in the connector, turn the ignition key to the run position and look at the check engine light for flashes long and short, 2 long flashes and 2 short flashes will be code 22. Do this and see if there are any stored codes on the ECM and let us know what they are.

poorman212

Ok, when you get back to the TB cleaning (an old tooth brush helps) be sure to check the cable to the TB to be sure it is moving/closing all the way. Again, most of the time you hear peolple taking about the idle bouncing-yours seems to not bounce, just holds at 1,500 rpms.

Enixero

As far as it sticking yes but now its starting to rev around 2000 rpms. The problems I see (May not be problems) I can pull the throttle cable and let it go the car will run 1500 to 2000 rpms, on the flip side with my hand i can push the throttle as low as it will go and it will stay. I'm cleaning the throttle body thoroughly tomorrow (Sat. 12,2010). I will get back to you.

~This is me replying to poorman212 (I forgot to Quote it...)~

Enixero

This is the first time I have ever heard this, it makes you sound like a genius. I will do this and reply back this Sat. the 12th. (Tomorrow). If theirs any codes I'll post um and Google them.

poorman212

Ok should have expanded on this....Checking for, asking about codes was one of the first questions asked?

pjschmitt

Whenever the idle goes up, it is because of air/vacuum leaks. The Fitv and the IACV are both parts that control the idle based on the temperature of the coolant flowing through the lines. I have found that if I fill and bleed the coolant, it can help or even completely fix the problem.

Sounds like the engine is not getting the right air/fuel mixture. Then it gets back to normal. There are explicit instructions on how to bleed the coolant. 1. Top off with coolant and make sure overflow has enough in it. 2. Start engine and allow to idle until the fan starts and stops twice. After that, it is at normal operating temp. 3. Shut off engine and locate the coolant bleeder screw near the water neck on engine. Use a socket to bump it loose and keep a wrench there to make final loosening and tightening movements.

You should probably see pressurized coolant with air in it,

4. then close it and open it again until all air comes out and tighten completley.

5. Recheck coolant level if alot came out. (wait until cool enough to open)

6. Start engine and see if that helped.

Note: Do not remove the bleeder screw completely, just enough to let coolant and air flow out.


Hope this helps. This is how I do it, the manual shows the procedure.

PJSchmitt
94 accord EX coupe H22A with some upgrades...

TexasRedCD5

I just had the same problem answered for me. Intake manifold gasket was the solution to my problem. Easiest way to check this is to take some aerosol Starter Fluid and while the engine is running, spray lightly around the manifold joint(where the gasket lies) at the base of the TB and at the junction by the block. If the cars Idle goes up, then the gasket is pulling air from outside, hence your "vacuum leak" problem. Give it a shot and let us know how today went.

tomw0

If the coolant is filled up completely, and the idle still stays in the 1500 range after the engine warms up, I would suspect the FITV is not closing down as it should. With the engine off, remove the cover on the FITV, start the engine and put your finger over the opening. If air is being pulled in, your FITV is allowing flow when the engine is warmed up. It is not supposed to do that. Book says replace the FITV. Other links here {the end of all idle surge - bounce - etc problems thread} say you can adjust the FITV. YMMV
tom

Enixero

I know for a fact that the intake manifold gasket Isn't bad. As far as other parts of the car I'll have to check.[/SIZE][/B]

Enixero

I haven't got to mess with the FITV yet, but within the week I'm going to check it and see if that's the problem.
Although...I do not have idle bounce, the car is now picky it runs between 1500-2000 rpms now. Its not a bounce it just runs that way now no clue.

Enixero

This is now on my "To Do" list and seems very simple and not costly. I will get back to you asap.
Side note- The car runs 1500 at start, when i press the gas and release it stays at 2000 rpms now and fluctuates will I'm driving (meaning sometimes it will be 2000 and sometimes 1500.) Note that i didn't say bounce or it moves up and down on its own. It just changes every time i hit the gas and let off.

Enixero

What I've done so far (with the little money I have).
1.) I cleaned the throttle body (for like 30 mins with a toothbrush and SeaFoam).
~Result= No change (Except for a clean throttle body).
2.) Cleaned the Engine with a power washer and made everything nice so I can see whats going on.
3.) I had to replace a hose (A hose busted and started letting coolant fly everywhere, this hose ran from the engine to a small metal device in which I would say control the conversion from hot to cold air inside the car).
Note= Haven't been able to do much, money, time, you know....Life.

THE NEW PROBLEMS AND WHATS CHANGED

1.) The idle still runs high, It runs 1500 almost all the time now, but has recently started staying around 2000 and what not. ( It does not bounce.)
A.) I cleaned the throttle body.
B.) TPS sensor - Not done yet.
C.) Coolant Air bleed thing - None attempted yet.

2.) Some hose busted and I had to replace it. ( Coolant hose that runs to the heater.)

3.) I found a crack on the top of my radiator, very small but now noticeable.
A.) I'm buying a new radiator asap.

4.) the car is showing me only one code, As i checked it it gave me a Code 43 ( A faulty fuel system or something. ) so I reset the ECU and waited for it to give me another code, there's only one code and its Code 43.
A.) Going to replace the O2 Sensor.

GhostAccord

If you have a code 43 and you are having driving issues it's probably not the O2 sensor that is the issue. It's more than likely a fuel supply issue, I.E. the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injector or resistor box.

Attached is a troubleshooting guide for fuel system issues.

Hope this helps

To sort out the idle issue you may want to check out the Cleaning IACV & FITV thread in the FAQ's. However, bleeding the coolant system may clear that up easy enough as well. Air pockets in the coolant system can get in around the ECT sensors and cause irregularities.

Enixero

Code 43, Is the only Code that shows up even after i reset the ecu and let the light come on again.

Enixero

I literally just replaced the Fuel filter, and the code still shows up. As for the others idk, I'm going to replaced the O2 sensor anyways cause it looks pretty bad so you know it would help anyway you put it. As far as bleeding the coolant system I'm gonna wait till I replace the radiator, along with replacing one more hose that feels really spongy.


But question: I what order would be best to check off the fuel system.
1.) Fuel filter is done.
2.)?
3.)?
4.)?
5.)?

Enixero

~Bump~

GhostAccord

Have you gone through the attachment in my above post? "Fuel Supply System.zip" It gives you a list of all the components to test and the procedures for doing so.