American Import

The A/C fuse (Fuse #17 which is a 20 amp fuse under the hood by the battery) keeps blowing when I turn on the air conditioning. I have tried several brand new fuses and it just keeps happening. I just now replaced the A/C relay as well and my #17 fuse under the hood continues to keep blowing out.

When I replace the #17 fuse the A/C will work anywhere from a couple of minutes and sometimes up to 30-45 minutes before blowing. Does anyone know where I should begin troubleshooting after replacing the #17 fuse and the A/C relay?

I had a brand new a/c compressor, drier, and belt installed a few months ago. I have plenty of freon so it is defintely not a leak.

PLEASE enlighten me as to what I should check now...

Former User

There are two A/C relays in the hood fuse box -- compressor clutch relay and condenser fan relay. Remove one at time to see whether removal of one prevents the fuse from blowing.

American Import

Hey, RonJ@HT and thanks for the reply. I tried what you said and the fuse does not blow out when the "MG Clutch Relay" is in; however, it does blow out when just the "Condenser Fan Relay" is in.

I have already replaced the “MG Clutch Relay” anyway and since it is blowing the fuse only when the “Condenser Fan Relay” is in place then I am assuming you are going to say that my next step should be to purchase and replace the “Condenser Fan Relay” and see if the #17 fuse continues to blow?

I’ll wait for your reply and thanks again I extremely appreciate the help!

KamikazeDR

No you should replace the condenser fan or see if there is any shorted wire close to it

Former User

The condenser fan motor is protected by fuse 56, not fuse 17, so a shorted fan motor seems unlikely.

Former User

Remove both the fan and clutch relays and then install the new clutch relay into the fan relay socket. Does fuse 17 still blow?

American Import

Yes. When I remove both the fan relay and clutch relay and place the BRAND NEW clutch relay into the fan relay position fuse #17 continues to blow.

I was going to check fuse #56 that was mentioned above but I do not show in my diagrams anywhere where that fuse is located.

Former User

The location of fuse 56 is shown below.

Former User

The A/C thermostat is located in the evaporator behind the glove box. Its connector (3P) has three wires (Blu/Wht, Blk/Yel, Blu/Red). With the engine running, unplug the A/C thermostat connector and then ground the Blu/Wht wire in the connector to the metal frame under the dash. This should trigger the A/C to run. Does fuse 17 still blow?

American Import

I will check out what you mentioned about the thermostat at some point this week and get back to you. I need to pick up some more 20 amp fuses tomorrow I've already gone through 15 of them.

Also, I am a COMPLETE IDIOT and I apologize for the confusion! I have been looking at the wrong chart and what I have been calling fuse # 17 this entire time IS really fuse # 56. Wow, this sucks I am sorry about relaying the wrong information let me know if this changes the route of what I should check.

Former User

If unplugging the condenser fan prevents fuse 56 from blowing, then replacing the fan should solve the problem.

American Import

I didn't exactly unplug the fan what I did was remove the condenser fan relay and when i did the fuse would not blow...on the other hand when the relay for the fan is in it will blow. relays can't cause fuses to blow right?..so i just thought that it would be the fan at that point. but i have had a couple people mention something about a compressor coil or something..

Former User

You need to do the test I mentioned. The result will tell you whether the shop mechanic is possibly right or wrong.

If unplugging the condenser fan does not prevent the fuse from blowing, then you would next test whether unplugging the compressor does.

American Import

what you asked me to test was when we were still thinking it was fuse 17 but its 56...

Former User

No, that's not right. You mentioned the error in post 10 and I mentioned the test in post 11.

American Import

This is what my post 11 says, "If unplugging the condenser fan prevents fuse 56 from blowing, then replacing the fan should solve the problem." No I did not replace the fan because it seems to be running the way it's supposed to.

Former User

Not sure if it's conscious, but you are making it extremely difficult to help you. It's probably best that you pay a mechanic to take it from here.

American Import

I do not see how, sir. You were talking about my thermostat at one point but that was when I was thinking it was fuse 17. When I realized it was fuse 56 I thought it changed the diagnosis to the fan. I am a mechanic but when I am stationed away from my garage it's hard to do all of the car work myself. My friend who has a shop up the road is who I took it to in order to change out the fan but he refused to do it because he swears the fan is okay. I thought that maybe it had an undetected short that was causing fuse 56 to blow so that's why I was going to change out the fan no matter what but I was basically talked out of it. If you are thinking it may still be the thermostat then I will check that asap and get back to you. This is why so many posts stay unanswered and I would like to give closure to those who may experience the same issues with their Civic. I apologize for not being the smartest man but I am not intentionally trying to make this hard believe me.

Also, my post 11 is when you talk about unplugging the fan relay...if you were talking about the post where you mentioned the thermostat that is post 9 for me.

Former User

Sorry, my intention was not to say you were not smart, just that I was having difficulties getting you to do the correct tests.

The next step is to unplug the condenser fan to see whether this prevents fuse 56 from blowing when the A/C is turned on. If so, the fan has a short and needs to be replaced. If, however, fuse 56 still blows, then reconnect the condenser fan and disconnect the plug for the compressor clutch and then check again whether fuse 56 blows. If not, the coil part of the compressor clutch most likely has the short and needs to be replaced. There are additional electrical tests to verify these diagnoses, when the time comes.

American Import

Okay, I'll diagnose that today. Do you happen to have a diagram of the a/c fan area? I have been trying to find a PDF online all morning. The only one I found is for a 94-97 accord and I'm almost positive the fans are on opposite sides for that year and model.

Former User

The condenser fan is on the driver side. Check out the FAQs sticky. Lots of good info there.

American Import

Yeah, I have ran it for 15-20 minutes and the fuse hasn't blown yet. It does seem to idle alot lower when the fan is disconnected and I have the a/c on. I'll run it for a bit and see if the fuse 56 ever blows...

Former User

Do you hear the compressor clutch engaging with the fan unplugged, the A/C button pushed on, and cabin blower running on high? If so, and the fuse does not blow, then the fan likely has a short and needs to be replaced.

American Import

With the condenser fan unplugged I can hear the compressor engaging. It's a new compressor I put it in over the summer. I ran the A/C on high for probably 45 minutes with the fan unplugged and the fuse 56 didnt blow. When I plugged the fan back in it took approximately 15 minutes to blow. I have plenty of fuses so I'll give it a few more tests to be sure. As long as the results stay the same do I replace the a/c condenser fan and motor or just the condenser fan?

What can happen from running the a/c without the condenser fan plugged in?...just concerned about testing it again if it can blow a hose or something..

Former User

The fix to the problem is almost certainly to replace the condenser fan motor (part #6 in diagram below). I think the only additional test to do would be to use a multimeter to show low resistance (short) for the fan motor.

Without the condenser fan running, the refrigerant pressures will rise, but the pressure switch will protect the system by shutting off the compressor.