quad

Ok, where do I start???

First I have a 2000 Honda Civic LX with 232,000 miles on it and it has an automatic transmission. I drive about 100 miles per day on open highway to and from work, (no city driving)

Started having trouble where my car would be running fine then just die. After pulling over and trying to start for about 5 minutes or so, the car would start and run fine like nothing ever happened.

Finally got a Check Engine Light (something about O2 sensor)(maybe 67 don't remember)

Well my exhaust manifold was cracked right where the top O2 sensor screws in. With the exhaust manifold and CAT converter being one unit, I had to replace them both. I replaced them with the two separate aftermarket units. (don't remember which brand)

Replaced both O2 sensors with Bosh.

Still had problems - - -

Replaced fuel filter and fuel pump (pump only - not entire assembly) with after market high pressure high flow pump.

Still had problems - - -

Honda site said there was a recall for some (not mine) hondas and it was the electrical side of the ignition switch. Mainly for standard transmission cars and I have an automatic.

I replaced that.

Still had problems - - -

Last night I replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap & distributor rotor with after market stuff.

Still had problems - - -

Getting CEL again. Jumping plug gives me code 67 - went to auto parts store and put on computer and getting code P0420 (CAT converter from what I read)

Narrowing down what's currently happening goes something like this:

When first starting car (cold from sitting for several hours) I start driving and within the first 3-7 miles the car just stops.

Pull over try starting for about 5 minutes or so and the car starts and runs like nothing ever happened. Runs fine the rest of the trip.

At first I thought it had something to do with high rates of speed but today when driving to the auto parts store it died in town after about 3 miles of driving.

Car started after about 5 minutes and ran fine to and from store. Car sat for maybe 1 1/2 - 2 hours before I leaving work (not enough time to cool too much) and I drove for an hour straight on the interstate at speeds of 70 -85 mph and no problems at all.

Car sat for about 2 1/2 hours tonight while in meeting and a little ways down the road the car died again. Seemed to take a little longer to start and took several times of starting and dieing before able to get back on the road.

Car ran fine all the way home.

Tonight I did notice one thing that seemed a little odd but could be normal. I never noticed before because this always happened during the day.

When trying to start my car I get the clicking noise from under the passenger side kick panel which is normal from what I noticed. Clicks once the I think after fuel pressure gets up it clicks again.

Anyway the strange part to me was between the 1st & 2nd click I would see the Park light on the dash AND the Drive light. I have no idea if that's normal or not or if it could be an indicator or some electrical malfunction with a switch/relay or whatever.

ANY help would be Greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks,
quad

Former User

Test the coil and have an auto parts store test the ICM.





Consider removing the new fuel pump and replacing it with an OEM pump. The new one is likely producing too much pressure and making the engine run rich.

P0420 likely means the catalytic converter is dead, likely due to misfiring caused by a bad ICM or coil.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

this man speaks the truth. ignition sw. problems can also cause this.

Former User

Seriously consider this^ possibility if, when the car stalls, the cluster warning lights are NOT illuminated.

(edit - I just noticed that the ignition switch has already been replaced)

quad

Thanks for the suggestions!!! I will continue my troubleshooting over the weekend!
__________________________________________________ ____________________

Here is more detailed info about what I bought as replacement parts:
__________________________________________________ ____________________

2000 Honda Civic Exhaust Manifold Catalytic Converter from am-autoparts - ebay item 110516125534

Bosch Oxygen Sensor 13007 Acura, Honda from motor capital auto parts - ebay item 230313815937 -and- Bosch Oxygen Sensor 13249 Honda - ebay item 230424289897
__________________________________________________ ____________________

Fuel Pump - GA1300 from Global Automotive - ebay item 380278790016
__________________________________________________ ____________________

Ignition Switch Genuine Honda Part # 35130-S04-305 from alldiscountparts - ebay item 260704799935
__________________________________________________ ____________________
10.2MM Red Spark Plug Wires & NGK Iridium Racing Plugs from autodinamics - ebay item 260406893660

D16 Red Racing Distributor Cap Rotor - ebay item - 360159976215

Transparent Smoke Distributor Cap Cover from dz-speedy - ebay item 400174355958

__________________________________________________ ____________________

I'm guessing I'm ok with the replacement parts I bought and installed.

thanks again,
quad

poormanstyperb16

i say swap the motor man to an type r. or gsr. because all the money your spending to fix could get you a new motor and tranny. just my opinion.

quad

In Reference to Post 2

I removed the Coil and ICM -

I tested the Coil with the following readings:

tested across the A & B terminal and I get 0.00
tested across the A & Secondary Winding Terminal and I get 16.14

I brought the ICM to the auto parts store and the guy told me it tested bad.

He told me a new one cost $105, the coil cost $79 and the complete distributor cost $179

I'm thinking about bringing the ICM to another auto parts store for testing.

thanks,
quad

93h2beg

get used dizzy from a pick n pull and grab the igniter from that, 40 bucks and you get acoil too!!!!! obd 2 honda would be best but you can run a obd 1 civic non vtec internals in any housing... minor differences... the heat sink from the igniter. but ya when i read ur post my first thought was igniter.

quad

I brought the ICM to another auto parts store and watched the guy test it three times and it tested good.

So if the ICM & Coil both test good, I'm back to square one :-(

This thing is driving me crazy....

Former User

What makes you conclude that the coil tested good?

quad

Ok, I guess you are right.

I guess a 0.00 is actually out of range from what you have listed.
0.63-0.77

Well maybe that's my problem.

Should I stay with the same brand?

Any place online that I can get one for under $79

thanks for pointing out what I over looked!!!

quad

Former User

Because your distributor may have >200K miles, you should just buy a whole new OEM distributor housing, including the coil and ICM. While somewhat expensive, this will ensure that you won't soon break down again from a distributor problem.

quad

Can you explain this a little more? What exactly is a dead converter? It was replaced not long ago.

Or do you think with the new distributor and OEM fuel pump the CEL will go away.

thanks again,
quad

Linked

a misfire in the engine means unburnt gasses flowing through the exhaust, this unburnt gas gets stuck in the cat converter ruining it prematurely

quad

I found this but I think this includes the entire assemble including the rotor and cap which I just replaced.

Honda OEM:

At Majestic Honda, you can buy the ENTIRE distributor

DISTRIBUTOR ASSY. (TD-73U) (TEC)
-or-
P/N 30100-P2E-A12


an OBD2 & OBD1 was mentioned earlier but I'm not sure the difference and I'm not sure which one I currently have

any suggestions

thanks,
quad

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

i would much better have all oem stuff thats been matched from factory than mess with mixed parts from ebay for this area

as for obd's, all 96 and up civic are OBD2 but there are different obd2's for these gen. civics.

thats why if u go with the assembly from majestic, or any honda parts site, u dont have to worry because all u need to do is put in ur cars info and it automatically gives u the parts that go with it

quad

Well, I ended up changing the entire distributor and cleared my CEL for the CAT.

I drove to work this morning without any problems.

(I spent the weekend changing the fuel pump in my wife's 00 Chevy Tahoe)

Thanks for all of the above posts.

If anything changes I'll post an update but as of now my car is running fine.

thanks,
quad

quad

Monday I drove to work and everything was great! I didn't get left on the side of the road for 5-10minutes. My CEL didn't come on, all was good.

oops, guess I already said this in my last post..........

That afternoon on my way home while driving on the interstate at about 75-80mph my CEL came back on.

I haven't checked the code yet but I'm guessing it's going to be something with the CAT again.

If I get P0420 again will changing back to OEM fuel pump fix this problem or is my CAT actually bad?

Please explain how a CAT goes bad because I don't fully understand. What exactly goes bad on it?

thanks,
quad

I'll go to the Zone tomorrow and put my car on the computer to verify my CEL and post an update.

Former User

Pull the code before speculating too much.

When a cat is bad there's no bringing it back to life. The cat is killed by unburnt fuel in the exhaust that then burns inside the cat. The high temp of the burning fuel melts the substrate of the cat, rendering it useless.

Unburnt fuel in the exhaust is generally the result of engine misfiring, usually due to ignition system problems, or by a fuel system problem (such as high fuel pressure, bad fuel pressure regulator, stuck open injector) or bad sensor (e.g., O2 sensor or MAP sensor).

quad

Ok getting Code P0420

Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1

and I'm sure as you already know....

Probable causes

1-Air/Fuel ratio concern
2-Air leak near Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
3-Ignition system concern
4-Faulty catalytic converter

thanks,
quad

Former User

Based on the prior distributor problem that surely caused engine misfiring, the cat is most likely dead.

quad

Man, I just replaced that thing :-(

Can I put a High Flow CAT Converter (Item number: 220640350545)

or a Resonator CAT Test Pipe? (Item number: 230573488781)

No sure if I can post links but they are all over eBay for cheap.

If these won't work, please explain why just for my knowledge.

Please let me know what you recommend because I don't want to have to change it soon again.

thanks,
quad

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

a test pipe is used to take the place of a cat and mainly for race purposes. so putting a test pipe will give you a cel for the cat that you wont have. a high flow cat is almost like a cross between a regular cat and a test pipe in that its less restrictive than a regular cat but more restrictive than a test pipe.

like ron said, once a cat is dead, theres is no bringing it back. i have experienced it before and it sucks but thats what happens with cars unfortunately.i would recomend that you fully fix ur ignition components before u put another cat on there or suffer the same outcome. once its running right then replace the cat. in most areas, they mandate that ur car have a cat in order to pass emissions testing.


hope it helps somewhat

quad

I fixed my car. I replaced the entire distributor this past weekend.

Just getting the code P0420 now.

This is what I used last time on my car - eBay Item number: 130459687471

Should I go with that again or can I use a something like this - eBay Item number: 280616539240?

thanks,
quad

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

the second item is a test pipe and will throw a code everytime for the non existant cat, i would go with the first item in this case.

when i was looking to buy a cat manifold like u are i saw that some people on here had recomended getting one from tenessee auto, on ebay. its about the same price as the first item posted and so far it has worked great for me.