JacksonD

Ok, so I have a 91 crx si a6/z6 mini-me. I parked it and went inside to a friends house, upon returning the car started and drove about 10 feet then stopped running. We pushed it into a parking spot and tried starting it but there was no fuel pump priming (Last summer I replaced stock pump with Walbro so it whines loud). I checked to hear for clicking from the relay but no sound, the engine did however turn over with spark and everything. After letting it sit for about ten minutes I tried again, only this time there was a rapid clicking from the relay but still no prime. I replaced the relay and the new relay did the same thing; rapid clicking but no prime. I am now at a total loss for what could be wrong with my car. Please any insight would be greatly appreciated as it is parked in a parking lot and would like to fix it asap before it gets towed/broken into.

Cliff Notes:
Ecu Capacitor was bad
Replaced: Dist cap/rotor, ecu
Checked: all fuel lines & grounds
Fuel pump primes now, cranks, still no start

JacksonD

bump

HondaPartsHero

Check all your grounds and battery terminal connections.

JacksonD

It was running fine for the drive over and when i drove it for like the 10 feet before it cut out. All power is running fine nothing is acting strange (i.e. lights, gauges, engine cranks/turns over, ect)

JacksonD

Checked all grounds, all are intact...

crazyboy

i strongly suggest checking your grounds. mine did that exact thing. i got my motor together and took it for a drive. it drove fine for a couple miles then just shut off and the relay would do nothing but click. came to be the grounds on the thermo housing

JacksonD

Well checked everything, found out that the ecu had a burnt solder on the main cap. Resoldered that **** and the fuel pump engages now, but it still will not start. Just replaced the dist. cap and rotor in hopes that that would work but still no start

JacksonD

Also now sometimes when I try to start it, it blows the ecu fuse sometimes :-/

Lens ej8

check harness

JacksonD

Checked harness and B2 seems to be partially pulled out. I am trying now to remove the pin from the connector and cut off the partially frayed part and reconnect the pin, I cannot however, find a clear answer on removing the pin from the connector

zsoccerdude17

Easiest way to remove it is with a terminal pick.

JacksonD

Where would be the best place to acquire such a pick? autozone/advance auto?

1990hondacrx

sounds like the ecu is bad or needs the main power transistor replaced is it a obd1? because if so it is a common thing on some of the boards..???
is the ecu obd1?
and inside the ecu does on the top of the board does it say?
11f0
1720

in the picture is the thing that was burnt what I circled? if not please show which one was burnt

JacksonD

That was indeed the capacitor that was bad, Today i ordered another p28 because while mine wasnt bad where the solder blew there was the horrid brown surrounding the solder. It didn't, however, smell like rotten ***** so idk...

1990hondacrx

the thing I circled can be ordered its only a few bucks and is your problem you could have got a new one and solered it in and been alot cheaper thats the main power capacitor that are known for going bad and leaking or burning. I would have just went to radio shack and picked one up and fixed it or called xenocron or moates and told them you needed one for C14 location its just a 220uf...... check it out hondata even has it and they describe it as a smell of fish inside the ecu. lol

http://www.hondata.com/tech_capacitor_obd1.html

JacksonD

There was bad corrosion around where the solder popped, Classes start next monday three and a half hours south of where I live and I need the car running, ill pay 78 to make sure that it does, and in time.

JacksonD

Replaced ecu, still will not start!!

JacksonD

Car is now starting for a minute then dying, what is the distributor order? I unplugged the plug wires from it without taking note to what order they were in, and now all i can find online is conflicting information on the order that the wires plug into the distributor

SHG_James

Check the grounds that attach to the thermostat housing. That fixed my rapid clicking main relay.