Ayashifx55

I wonder if anyone can take pictures of the two tubes that goes into the firewall. The inlet and outlet tube. The inlet has the heater valve cable and the oulet is the other tube beside it. I have the civic manual 92-95 but it doesn't show where inlet goes there from and i dont know where the outlet goes to ... (In the engine bay, not int he dash) My garage said he removed one of the tubes because it was leaking radiator or something. The inlet and outlet are now both together so i have no heat (kind of ghetto)

My second problem is sometimes, in the morning, i cannot start my car because the clutch pedal or clutch has no resistance on it, i can't feel its engaging therefore, i cannot start the car ! It's exactly the same noise when you try to start your car without pressing on the clutch ... I have to go to the engine bay, poke and mix a bit the clutch fluid with a stick(sometimes add a tiny bit) and few times of that, it will work .... The fluid is dark but the ones i pour are transparent. After the car starts, everything is fine but the pedal needs to be pressed half way in order for it to have the clutch engaging therefore, i only have 1/2 of the clutch freeplay which is hard to slow acceleration.


Thank you very much for your time.
I'm not extremely good in mechanic english so pictures would be awsome guys. This is my winter beater but i have no heat lol.
If it gets fixed, i will paypal you money for helping me. Slider and blower works perfectly. My car does not overheat.

Former User

Clutch:
First try a clutch fluid flush and then bleed the system. If that doesn't help you may need to replace the master and/or slave cylinder.


Heater hoses:

strategy400

Here is a picture of the heater hoses emanating from the firewall.

Note that the heater valve is detached from it's bracket (2 screws) and the cable is also detached.

Let me know if you need a shot of the entire engine bay.

Ayashifx55

thats exactly how mines is but except the inlet is going to the outlet lol.
Where does the inlet leads to? (engine bay) and outlet? (engine bay , not into firewall)

Ayashifx55

mind if i get a picture from the thermostat housing? Thanks !

strategy400

All the pictures I have are with the engine removed.

I THINK -

The valved hose(s) leads to the pipe/fitting under the Distributor.

The non-valved hose leads to the thermostat housing.

Can't verify 'til I get home from work.

BTW - hoses are the best fit and quality AND cheapest from your local friendly honda dealer. NAPA and Autozone are a rip off for hoses compared to the dealer.

Always get stock hoses from the dealer.

Ayashifx55

thanks for your recommendation ! I have ordered from honda dealer. The valved hose cost me 24.50$ (left) and the non valve hose cost me 10$ (right side) hope it works out

strategy400

I recently replaced all my coolant hoses (and radiator). Nothing like that fresh hose feeling.

Be careful with the pipes/nipples coming out of the firewall from your heater core. They are super soft metal and will crush easily. I recommend cutting the old hoses off with a sharp knife lengthwise rather than pulling or grasping with pliers (they WILL crush). If they get crushed you can round them out again by carefully rotating a 3/8 long extension in them until they become round again (or maybe even better with a properly sized deep socket).

Also, There is a short hose that connects firewall to valve, a long hose from valve to block, and a long from firewall to thermostat (3 hoses).

DaiJekBok

This is great advice -- I damaged the tubing on the core so bad that it leaks a bit (I've since bypassed the heater). I don't know why it didn't occur to me to slit the hoses as you described.

Ayashifx55

thanks for letting me know about THREE hoses.

The 10$ one i ordered was the one from firewall to valve heater.

All i took today was the outlet one (firewall to thermostat housing)
Missing engine to valve heater =(
It's raining this week. Its hard to survive with fog + cold lol

jdmNit

my buddy and i have the same issue with clutch feeling all weak and no pressure until about half way down. He has a 96 integra and i have a 93 hatch. He just fixed his problem and im about to fix mine. What he did was on the master clutch cylinder, it has that bolt/nut thing where it attaches to the pedal. well he just adjusted that some and now he says he has full pressure and no weaksauce anymore in it. Ima see if can knock mine out today and i'll let you know how it goes.

Ayashifx55

please let me know ! would you also mind taking pictures and where it is located? would be very helpful.
I have eg6 but swapped b18b (integra) so i guess we have the common parts?

jdmNit

yea no problems. i'll post them up today once im off work and kinda walk it thru...its a pretty easy process...and yea i dropped a B20B in my si hatch...so same thing almost....

Ayashifx55

I have attempted to reconnect hoses properly by using existing hoses to try.
The previous owner connected the hoses like this,

I reconnected everything correctly and still got no heat (by using existing hoses) no leak from those hoses.
But problem is, my car rev's up and down on idle now !! From 1000 to 2000rpm. It keeps doing it. Rarely, it will stay at 1700-1800rpm
but as soon as i press gas and then idle, it will go crazy again !! I'm confused now. Should i attempt the new hoses or refund them.

NotAJDMFanBoy

If your clutch is leaking, you need to see where it's leaking. The parts aren't expensive. It's 70 for a S2k master cylinder (swaps in with either adjusting the bracket or using a 38mm wastegate flange for a spacer), a little less for a regular Civic one. The slave is like 30. The hose is like 50 for a flex line (cheaper, easier, better looking than OEM).

NotAJDMFanBoy

The master cylinder leaking is pretty common, it will ooze a little inside the car where the rod from the pedal goes in.

Ayashifx55

i ended up changing the slave cylinder and the master cylinder. It was the slave cylinder leaking, it leaked so much that my clutch pedal didnt bounce back and i coulnt engage it. Everything works now thanks guys.