What is "self-etching primer"?
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What is "self-etching primer"?
I have also heard this be called etching primer, but i believe its all the same thing? What exactly is it used for? is it ok to use it to temporarily cover up body filler?
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
what it is, is it lays on think and u can sand out the scratches from other coats or bondo filler ****, it makes a smooth not rough lookin finish on ur paint job
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
real etch primer is for use on BARE metal only. its very thin, it has no waterproofing properties. do not use it on body filler. use urethane or epoxy primer for covering up bodyfiller.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
in order... metal, etching, sanding primer, sealer, base coat, clear coat.
Self-etching primer is composed of an acid and zinc. The acid, usually phosphoric acid, forces the zinc down into the top couple of molecules of the steel. Chemically impregnating the steel like this cannot reverse the rust but it can stop in from getting worse.
In a spray can if it says "self etching primer". It is most likely filler primer with acid and zinc added. BTW I wouldn't recommend priming with a can because the primer does not atomize as much as it should and it will not hold 100%.
Self-etching primer is composed of an acid and zinc. The acid, usually phosphoric acid, forces the zinc down into the top couple of molecules of the steel. Chemically impregnating the steel like this cannot reverse the rust but it can stop in from getting worse.
In a spray can if it says "self etching primer". It is most likely filler primer with acid and zinc added. BTW I wouldn't recommend priming with a can because the primer does not atomize as much as it should and it will not hold 100%.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
let me just tell u wat its for... i wont try to wow you with big words...
its for adhesion... and its for metal protection... u only spray it where theres metal showing (whether it be a small spot, or your whole car)... and u spray it in a transparent coat... its not meant to go over any other paint/primer/fillers....
after you spray etching primer.. then u spray regular highbuild primer... or sealer and basecoat.
simple.
its for adhesion... and its for metal protection... u only spray it where theres metal showing (whether it be a small spot, or your whole car)... and u spray it in a transparent coat... its not meant to go over any other paint/primer/fillers....
after you spray etching primer.. then u spray regular highbuild primer... or sealer and basecoat.
simple.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
in order... metal, etching, sanding primer, sealer, base coat, clear coat.
Self-etching primer is composed of an acid and zinc. The acid, usually phosphoric acid, forces the zinc down into the top couple of molecules of the steel. Chemically impregnating the steel like this cannot reverse the rust but it can stop in from getting worse.
.
Self-etching primer is composed of an acid and zinc. The acid, usually phosphoric acid, forces the zinc down into the top couple of molecules of the steel. Chemically impregnating the steel like this cannot reverse the rust but it can stop in from getting worse.
.
haha, you totally googled that. thats alot of specific words. hah
but i totally agree with ya, just about any primer out of an aerosol can sucks bigtime. even u-pol, or dupont 1k stuff, use the real stuff.
let me just tell u wat its for... i wont try to wow you with big words...
its for adhesion... and its for metal protection... u only spray it where theres metal showing (whether it be a small spot, or your whole car)... and u spray it in a transparent coat... its not meant to go over any other paint/primer/fillers....
after you spray etching primer.. then u spray regular highbuild primer... or sealer and basecoat.
simple.
its for adhesion... and its for metal protection... u only spray it where theres metal showing (whether it be a small spot, or your whole car)... and u spray it in a transparent coat... its not meant to go over any other paint/primer/fillers....
after you spray etching primer.. then u spray regular highbuild primer... or sealer and basecoat.
simple.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
good info. Reason why i asked was because i didnt see Etching Primer listed in the "Everything You Need To Know About Bodywork" thread. lol. I guess thats what we are all here for.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
good info impatient.
Heres a question since this question was answered, when someone refers to "sealer" what exactly are they referring to? Is that just another word for epoxy or urethane primer?
Heres a question since this question was answered, when someone refers to "sealer" what exactly are they referring to? Is that just another word for epoxy or urethane primer?
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
Id like to know about this as well since this would be my first time doing bodywork on my own.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
Sealer is basically thinned out reduced primer, although they have different part numbers.sealer is just thinner. Sealer is used as the initial coat of material before laying basecoat. Sealers can be urethane, epoxy or lacquer( please god stay away from lacquer sealer, its cheap,but its crap and takes months to totally cure which can cause problems in the basecoat), i only use 2k urethane primer or sealer. Sealers main purpose to "seal in primer" since primer can sometimes "bleed through" and to create a uniform color surface before laying basecoat. Like if your spraying a car with new fenders and a hood and a door that are black, but the car is white. You dont want to spray basecoat over a black panel, and then over the old paint cause each panel will take a different amount of basecoat to cover since the underlying parts are different colors, that can create different shades of color and than your brand new paint job wont match. Sealer also is good, but not intended for, filling tiny little holes in bodywork. Granted you dont want to be laying sealer on heavy, but it can be used to fill tiny pinholes before laying basecoat. BUT OF COURSE thats not its purpose. Its also great making the panel flat since sometimes a feather out can create a line, and if basecoat is sprayed on it can appear and create an image. Sealer should be the first thing you use on your car when spraying it. ESPECIALLY if your changing colors. it will help the old colors from bleeding through, it will let you use less material to cover correctly. it will help in correcting tiny imperfections. you really only need 1 good coat of sealer, dont want much more then that. You also need to stick with the correct value shade of sealer, you dont want to get a dark grey sealer and then spray white over it. each basecoat has a reccomended sealer to use to create maximum coverage. sealers come in a bunch of different colors, and if needed you can tint the sealer to be closer to your needs.
theres different times when sealer should be used, on all over paint jobs i always use sealer, if your doing some repair work and are blending than you only want to use sealer on the panel that had repair or that was replaced, you dont want to use sealer on the panel that your blending into. sealer is always in my arsenal, it just makes for a better paint job and is just another tool to help your car come out better.
- adhesion promotor if needed
-sealer
-basecoat, than if you have a midcoat
-clear.
example.
i sealed this car with a Medium grey sealer.(black has no problem covering most color sealers, but i used a medium grey since its nearest the silver, and the silver can cover very easily)then layed the silver basecoat.
than taped off and layed the silver
than clear.
theres different times when sealer should be used, on all over paint jobs i always use sealer, if your doing some repair work and are blending than you only want to use sealer on the panel that had repair or that was replaced, you dont want to use sealer on the panel that your blending into. sealer is always in my arsenal, it just makes for a better paint job and is just another tool to help your car come out better.
- adhesion promotor if needed
-sealer
-basecoat, than if you have a midcoat
-clear.
example.
i sealed this car with a Medium grey sealer.(black has no problem covering most color sealers, but i used a medium grey since its nearest the silver, and the silver can cover very easily)then layed the silver basecoat.
than taped off and layed the silver
than clear.
Last edited by IMPATIENT; 06-06-2009 at 06:02 AM.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
or you can always buy a high build primer... (basically a primer that lays really thick) that is something you can use to build low areas be4 you spray sealer and bascoats...
depending on the type of paintjob... i'll cover any areas of metal with self etching... then i'll primer over the whole car with color build/high build primers... i'll block it to make sure theres no low areas... and repeat the color build process if necessary...(spray, let dry, sand etc) then finally i'll go to a sealer. and straight into base n clear
very tedious... u dont want a wavy paint job!
depending on the type of paintjob... i'll cover any areas of metal with self etching... then i'll primer over the whole car with color build/high build primers... i'll block it to make sure theres no low areas... and repeat the color build process if necessary...(spray, let dry, sand etc) then finally i'll go to a sealer. and straight into base n clear
very tedious... u dont want a wavy paint job!
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
thats the correct order, if there is any bodywork, you need to block it first. I always block with 320 just to make it easier, than i use a soft pad d/a with 500, than finish with 600 and 800. you can finish with 600 but i just like to go one step further and finish with 800 depending on the color ill be spraying, i dont wetsand a terrible amount cause its not really needed when finishing with a soft pad d/a, anything above 600 is good to final prep with it.but if you dont have a soft pad d/a to go over everything with than wetsanding with a block is good. You dont want to use a hard pad d/a to finish prepping with cause that pretty much will negate your blocking your bodywork. light pressure with your block when wetsanding is good if you dont have a soft pad, once you get the car in the booth cleaned and ready to go, sealer goes down first before basecoat.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
thats the correct order, if there is any bodywork, you need to block it first. I always block with 320 just to make it easier, than i use a soft pad d/a with 500, than finish with 600 and 800. you can finish with 600 but i just like to go one step further and finish with 800 depending on the color ill be spraying, i dont wetsand a terrible amount cause its not really needed when finishing with a soft pad d/a, anything above 600 is good to final prep with it.but if you dont have a soft pad d/a to go over everything with than wetsanding with a block is good. You dont want to use a hard pad d/a to finish prepping with cause that pretty much will negate your blocking your bodywork. light pressure with your block when wetsanding is good if you dont have a soft pad, once you get the car in the booth cleaned and ready to go, sealer goes down first before basecoat.
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Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
Should I be adding filler as I step up to finer sandpaper? Or should I work the same layer of filler using the grits listed removing the bigger scratches with finer grits? What is the best point of time to start feathering out the filler work and with what grit should feathering be done? Also, what would you recommend for me since I plan on driving this car daily and dont have the everyday convinience of a air compressor or spraying equipment?: is there any kind of spraycan primer that i can temporarily use to cover up the bodywork? I dont want the filler to soak up rain or mist ( can unprotected filler crack due to absorbed water?) I deeply appreciate your help. I just want to be sure of what the proper steps are before I get going on my car.
Last edited by IMPATIENT; 06-08-2009 at 06:24 PM.
#20
Re: What is "self-etching primer"?
As was stated earlier etching primer is for bare metal only. It is very porous and should be primered as soon as possible after spraying. It being porous is why you get good adhesion with your primer but, it should also be noted that it will absorb anything (such as water) and will lose the adhesion quality and make your prime and base coat bubble up. If it has been 24 hours or more the etcher MUST be sanded before primer is added. Also when storing any unused etcher make absolutely sure that it is closed and sealed up good or it will absorb moisture and the afore mentioned problems will occur. Hope this helps anyone.
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