The-Kid

Sup guys! Actually this doesn't relate to Accord, but in the near future it will to me.

I'm trying to replace an engine mount and I have some questions...

So far, i found: Put floor jack underneath the engine (not on the oil pan), Jack it up a little, loosen the bolts, and tighten it.

-How easy?
-What tools?
-Bolts easy to remove?
-What other info do I need to know?
-Do I have to torque the bolts? And should I replace them?
Thanks!

gianinline

well... i don't know which motor mount we would be dealing with... but... in my car....... we removed the mount... put a new one and just tightened the bolts to the maximum we could. To tell you the truth, wasn't that difficult. As long as you clear your way to the mounts, they become less difficutl to access.
If your mounts are not cracked or letting the engine move too much during shifts... you can keep them.

The-Kid

Thanks gianinline.

Lets say for Honda's purpose. Lets say its for a 94-01 Accord 4cyl.

The engine mount is cracked, when you're underneath the car, you can see cracks. And when we put the car into reverse, the engine moves so much!

K24.20A

Thats a broken motor mount. You should get that fix. I had that problem on another car, everytime i hit the gas pedal, you would feel the motor torque and hitting something, you feel the car shaking. Its hard to explain, but drive it around. You will know what i mean.

lunarone

we already had that as given information haha. it sounds like you would be doing the procedure correctly

The-Kid

Aite thanks guys. I'll be prob buying the engine mount wherever I can find one for the car i'm replacing it with.

But 1 last question.
How hard is it to take out the bolts?

The-Kid

Eh anyone can answer this question?

How hard is it to take out the engine mount bolts?

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

PB Blaster + time and I can't imagine they'd be too bad, I don't know what the torque specs are though

chibiko

I did mount change for the front mount. it is not difficult. what you need is just some good ratchet, extension/joint, and sockets. a break bar may help you to loose the bolt, but my extendable ratchet also worked for me. a little bit of blue thread locker will be helpful when you tighten those bolts on.

you also need a floor jack to lift your engine a little bit. the one in your trunk is good enough. the position to use it is the engine oil pan. you definitely need a piece of wood to spread the load. be careful don't mess up other weak locations under your car.

it looks that the side mount is also easy to change. but the rear mount will be absolutely difficult for DIYers. don't have experience on it.

YeuEmMaiMai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chibiko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did mount change for the front mount. it is not difficult. what you need is just some good ratchet, extension/joint, and sockets. a break bar may help you to loose the bolt, but my extendable ratchet also worked for me. a little bit of blue thread locker will be helpful when you tighten those bolts on.

you also need a floor jack to lift your engine a little bit. the one in your trunk is good enough. the position to use it is the engine oil pan. you definitely need a piece of wood to spread the load. be careful don't mess up other weak locations under your car.

it looks that the side mount is also easy to change. but the rear mount will be absolutely difficult for DIYers. don't have experience on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


exactly what he said jack up under oil pan with a peice of wood inbetween the jack and oil pan

The-Kid

Aite thanks guys! Imma buy the mount today or something and change it next week. Sounds pretty easy.

I'll follow up on how it went. Until next week.

raceACCORDingly

front is cake.

rear is a bit harder cuz the bolts are harder to get to. i tried with a set of extensions and crowfoot wrenches and i couldnt do it. ended up taking off the intake mani

The-Kid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raceACCORDingly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">front is cake.

rear is a bit harder cuz the bolts are harder to get to. i tried with a set of extensions and crowfoot wrenches and i couldnt do it. ended up taking off the intake mani</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sup guys! I changed the engine mount today, and as many of you said, it was easy smeezy! (part of the reason, it had a big engine bay) Anyways the vibration in the car got better.

But the bad news... I checked the rear mount and the are cracked!!!!!!! Heres how I did the test. I shifted the car into drive, with my foot on the brake, I step on the gas until 1500 RPM. My dad check the mounts and it has pretty big. Around 1cm at the top.

My big question: should I just go ahead and replace the stupid mounts?(easy to replace I think, big space) Or should I just sell the car? (Car has hesitation problems and got many new parts already, still there.)

The-Kid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beenbanned4x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The-Kid = dork</TD></TR></TABLE>

OOO THANK-YOU! I take that as a compliment. I am a geek at cars. Why, thats the nicest thing you said to me!

tc07

bump

mfulling23

First of all, it is easiest to change the rear mount with the front loose (just unbolt the top end and support engine a little with jack and obviously have the car on jackstands so that you can work under the car)

You will have to take off the intake manifold, fuel rail, etc.:
-I had my oil drained...I don't know if you need to or not
-Drain coolant (there is a white plug somewhere in center of radiator on 90-93 accords)
-Disconnect battery
-Remove the intake (the plastic part: easiest to remove with the air filter cover on it too)
-Remove all vacuum and regular hoses, etc. that will be in the way of moving intake manifold, fuel rail , etc. This will take the most time to locate all and remove
-Remove the bolts connecting the manifold to the engine (I believe there are 10).
-Now everything should be disconnected from the manifold except for some wires on the drivers side that connect to the fuel rail or something
-Set the manifold on top of the valve cover or out of the way.
-Loosen the bolt connecting the mount and then the three connecting the mount to the frame and remove all
-Remove the heater hoses that connect to the firewall for clearance. They were directly behind my mount and there were 2 (BE CAREFUL AS THESE ARE COPPER AND BEND/BREAK VERY EASILY...i would recommend slicing the hose longways to peel off of tube so you don't break)
-Now you should be able to rotate the mount out (you may need to raise the engine more or use a prybar to move a little but i did not)
-Installation is almost the reverse, except you need to clean the mounting surfaces of the intake manifold and replace the gasket and any hoses that you found to be faulty (or caused to be )

John Bennett

Great instructions.

Thank you mfulling23!

Bad_dude

That is a lot of work and especially when you have never done it like me. I can change the other 3 but the rear one is indeed a pain in the rear. My car only shakes when in reverse but in forward drive, no shake yet.

Bad_dude

So did you replaced that mount? How was it?
Thanks.

Jason Townsend

If your vehicle is shaking in gear when stopped, but it goes away once moving or in park or neutral, it is most likely an engine mount. The reason for the shaking is that when in gear the engine is producing torque that is not being released. If your engine mounts are no good this will produce shaking.

This week I replaced all the engine mounts on a 88 Honda Accord Lxi. I had a hard time finding resources for the job and a good how to so I'll post how I did it. The job really wasn't that bad. I did 5 in a day. I was also able to replace the rear engine mount WITHOUT removing anything but the airbox and hoses. To do a job like this tho it is very important to have the right tools. Good tools. I would recommend,

1/2" drive ratchet set and breaker bars
2" ratchet extension
Jack and jack stands
Liquid wrench
Torque wrench

An important thing to remember is that your not just removing the rubber engine mount. In order to get them out easily you must also remove the mounting bracket to the engine/transmission. If your vehicle is shaking the first and easiest mount I would check is the torque strut. It looks like a dog bone on the top left side of the engine running from the fire wall to the engine. The dog bone dissipates a lot of torque from the engine and may very well be the only one broken. There are two round rubber inserts in the holes of the dogbone that get old and brittle. To see if it's bad, just grab it and shake it. If it moves its bad.

Replacing torque strut mounts ( Vehicle MUST be on ground. Do not lift!)

A 14mm socket is what is necessary for most of the engine mount bolts. There are two bolts and a small bracket that are holding this thing in. They are tightened to 54lbft however so it is pretty hard to break. Spray with liquid wrench and let it set in. Get a nice 2" 1/2" drive breaker bar and 14mm socket. Of your using 3/8 drive you'll probably break it. It's easiest to access these nuts from the pass side of the car so on the rear bolt by the firewall you will be breaking the nut. The forward part/engine you will be breaking the bolt. The rear nut is lefty loosey, push up. It is very tough but you'll get it with a long enough breaker bar. the engine side you turning the bolt so your pushing down/right. the engine side is tough because there are things in the way (i.e throttle cable). Get a short extension. Once those bolts are broken get some long needle nose to hold the nut for the front bolt. There is a small bracket on the rear side of the front/engine mount held on with a 10mm bolt. This is tedious but get a wrench and try not to drop it. Now you can get the strut mount out. in Back the bolts out. Push the rubber inserts out and replace them. $11.99 each and O'reillys had them in stock. Put it back in and torque to 54 lbft.

Replacing the front and rear engine mounts

Jack the vehicle up enough you can get under it. Now with a block of would jack lightly on the engine via the oil pan. I know people are going to complain about this but in order to get the engine to raise right for me to get the front and rear out I had to jack very slowly on the transmission. Otherwise it raises lopsided. I wouldn't necessarily recommend that, but it worked for me.
Remove the center nut on the front engine mount. It looks like a bell and resides in front of the radiator. You'll need a long extension and a 14mm socket. If you can't jack it up enough to get the engine mount bolt to clear the bracket, remove the bracket. The bracket is connected to the engine and is held on by three bolts. Two on top (easy) one under (hard). Get under the car with a 10mm wrench to get the lower bolt on the bracket. If you have to go this route also remove the other two bolts holding the engine mount onto the cross member. You want it loose so you can push it back to back the lower bracket bolt out. Once the bracket is off you can pull the mount right out. Replace tighten to 14lbft

Rear engine mount

Jack the engine up slowly and carefully by oil pan(I jacked by transmission). This is easiest to do with the front mount loose. Leave the side mount on otherwise the engine will be free and will be very hard to line up all the bolts to replace. Remove the air box and attached hoses/ducts. Get a 1/2 drive 2" extension. Take off the top nut on the stud of the engine mount. Get under the car. Remove the bolts holding the bracket to the transmission. You could theoretically get to them from the top, but its damn hard. Liquid wrench is your friend. Access the bolts from below and this will make life much easier. Get safety glasses. I had all kinds of crap falling down into my eyes doing this. Replace and torque to 14lbft. It's not easy. Patience is key. I did it in 3 hrs.

Side engine mount

This is located on the drivers side by the belts and looks like a dogbone. It's round. This was the easiest to do. Jack the engine with a block of wood on the oil pan to spread the weight out evenly. Remove the two bolts holding the mount to the crank case. Remove the nut/bolt that runs through the center of the mount. Boom it's out. Replace and torque to 28 lbft.


That's it. Now if your doing all these at once there is a certain sequence to torque all the mounts so the engine seats properly.

1- Tighten side mount snug only
2- Tighten the two bolts holding side mount to crank case by belts.
3- Tighten center nut on front engine mount to 14lbft
4- Tighten center nut on rear mount to 14lbft
5- Tighten side mount bolt to 28lbft (the bolt running through the center)
Lower car
6- Tighten rear bolt on torque strut to snug only
7- Tighten front nut on torque strut to 54lbft
8- Tighten rear nut on torque strut 54 lbft
9- Check the rubber damper on the center beam is centered in it's mount on the transmission. If not, loosen the bolts on the center beam and insulator and adjust as necessary. This is under the car.

Get yourself a shop manual for free. It helps.
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html

FEAR6655

I didn't have to raise the engine at all for a front engine mount. The front and rear mounts are only really torque mounts, that is to stop the engine torqing when you let the clutch out etc. With the engine off there shouldn't be any load on these mounts. The side ones are the ones that support the weight of the engine.

Jason Townsend

Yea you wouldn't have to for just the front mount, but I did all of them at once. However if you do the front and rear at the same time you would have to put a jack under it to support it. Otherwise, you will lose your hole position for the mounting brackets. The engine will move considerably on you if you remove both the front and rear brackets. The only thing holding it latterly would be the side mount and transmission mounts. Ask me how I know...