mortificationrock

Ok well ive been hearing a winding sound for some time..figured it was a wheel bearing. And apparently its my passenger rear. But yesterday i jacked my car up to figure which bearing it was and i spun my front wheel and it would barely spin. And make some weird kind of like grinding sound. Tried the other side and it spinned more freely, plus i didnt hear that grinding sound.

So im guessing my caliper is stuck on the other one right? Would a HONDA caliper seal rebuild kit help me out in this? Maybe that explains the problem ive been having , when that tire that is sticking..when i brake sometimes usually it squeeks and my brakes are new. And it only does it on that side. And randomly. Could it be that the caliper is sticking creating much heat and thats why i hear my brakes squeek from there when i brake randomly?

hasty91ef

Yeah get the caliper rebuild kit. The pins are proablly bent or sticking.

mortificationrock

The pins?

Tico Loco

Bleed the system first to be sure you do not have air or water in the system and try to see if the brake fluid is like clay. ( rust ) The best way to go is to rebuild the caliper as you said. Check the other 3 calipers looking for rust and after fixing the rear right caliper make a complete brake fluid change.

GOOD BRAKES IS YOUR BEST LIFE INSURRANCE!

mortificationrock

I have rear calipers. The brakes are new and they were bled before. But I guess I can try that.

Rok_Stok

The sliding pins seized on my rear calipers, I had to pull them out and replace them. Works great now.

mortificationrock

What are the pins? The ones you loosen up to take off the caliper?

Rok_Stok

Yeah, 12mm bolts go into each one (14mm on some Hondas).

mortificationrock

Ah...might look into them. Might as well buy 2 calipers kits and 4 new pins from Honda.

instructor74

hold on first you say right front now your talking about the right rear which one is it. Any way if its your slide pins that are stuck that can be a very easy fix or really tuff depending on what you run into. If its your front they are so cheep that just getting a remanufactured caliper is really the easyest thing to do. All said and done with core exchange you should be able to get one for around $40. You will have a working caliper right out of the box. If you have rear disc then you are without a question better off getting a remaufactured unit they are a lot more money around $125 because of the complex ebrake mech inside the caliper. No offence but I say this because it sounds like you have very little knowledge of what you are doing with your brake system and you can get yourself in a world of trouble if you have something go wrong. like broken slide pins, torn seals, stuck piston, broken ebrake mech, to name a few. Next thing you know your car is down for days while you wait for a caliper assy to come in

mortificationrock

Its the front right. I heard a winding noise from rear but that was because my tire was too low..dont ask. Im just asking about the pins cuz to me they are bolts not pins. Different people call them different names. I rather rebuild my caliper than get a cheap *** aftermarket caliper. A remanufactured caliper is about40-50 bux. When i can rebuild both for that price with HONDA's rebuild kit.

instructor74

You assume its the pins you could also have a problem with the puck being stuck that is why i recomended the remand. Oh buy the way I have never seen a reman caliper that was aftermarket, they are all oem units that have been fully serviced and tested for proper opperation

xXx Justin xXx

uhm... i am going to say it isn't the caliper... but the caliper brackets that are locked up. Thats where your slide pins are. No need to get a replacement caliper or bleed the brakes/mess with brake fluid.

I had this happen to my rear caliper brackets a year ago, rebuilt them, packed full of anti seize etc.. a year later, both brackets' sliders locked up again. I went and bought NEW (not reman) caliper brackets that came fully assembled with new sliders for about $25 each. Just replaced them last weekend. Problem solved. Same symptoms you describe.

When you remove the caliper bolts to free it from the rotor, (well before you take it off you need to loosen the 2 12mm bolts on the bracket) you can then remove the brackets. The brackets are the section that house the pads and attach the caliper to the spindle. No need to ever mess with the brake line or anything on the caliper itself.

instructor74

I do agree that it is more than likely the slide pins that are stuck. As you found out that using the wrong type of lube will only cause you have to do the job all over again. Anti seize is the wrong thing to use and if you make the mistake of using anything that has a petrolium base (anti sezie, degreasers, or lubes, ect). the rubber guides and seals for the slide pins will swell causing the brakes to drag. The best thing that I found is a ceramic based synthetic brake lube its a little bit more than the normal stuff but it seems to hold up the best. Op good luck with the rebuild

mortificationrock

Fvck....you guys are confusing me..I need diagram. One mentions pins and another the spindle bracket?

instructor74

okay thats simple enough this image is a 93 Si front brake assy yours might differ slightly but all have similar parts just get whats needed for your car

okay the slide pin assy are #21, #22. they slide inside part #18, #20, #26 on the bottom pin and #19, #21, #25. When the lude becomes dry, contaminated ect these pins can seize sometimes they can be a real bitch to get free all the parts need to be degreassed inspected and should be replaced with new.

The rear brake assy is different in the way the slide pins are mounted to the braket and caliper hence the reason that you can change the whole peace as an assy. image of 93 si rear brake assy

mortificationrock

Hmmm...weird i looked at a diagram on Hondaautomotiveparts.com and they have less parts for that slide pin...but i get the idea. Thanx. It only seems to be #24 and #18..and #17 being the dust covers. Not like the other caliper that had some other parts for the pin.

instructor74

Yours is more like the rear on my diagram. if the pins are seized remove the bracket from the car and use a propaine torch to heat up the bracket where the pins are located and use vice grips to work the pins free. I have seen these pins so suck that the ear brakes off. Make sure that the new seals are seated in the grooves
Correctly when reassembly is done

xXx Justin xXx

Dang. I was stuck in rear brake assembly thinking mode. Wasn't thinking about the front being assembled different. And to the guy that said antiseize is the WRONG stuff to use... I had no idea. Thats just what the people at the autoparts store recommended. Oh well, I bought entirely new brackets for the rear when I did them this time. I won't have the car long enough to need to ever worry about the rear brakes again.

to the OP. If your caliper slide pins are sticking, you can probably get them free with a little muscle and some type of penetrating spray hold the caliper and take some channel locks or something and twist back and forth on the pins to get them free.. Once you get them loose, take them apart, re-lube them with whatever the guy a few posts up said to use, put them back in. should be good to go. Still don't see the need to buy a new caliper etc.

mortificationrock

Ok...well ill take it apart and inspect. Cuz i remove both screws that hold the caliper to the bracket when i changed the pads. So i dont know what you mean by seized?