double b from wv

i was looking around under the hood yesterday when i noticed that i have an injector leaking fuel onto the intake manifold. it looks like its coming from the top seat, where the injector connects to the fuel rail.





i went to napa, and they have an injector seal kit for about $5 each (one kit needed per injector).

i looked through my service manual and couldn't find an exploded view of the fuel rail and injectors. does anyone have one, or know where i could find it?

if not, how do i go about this? just unbolt the fuel lines from the rail ends, the rail from the engine, and pull the injectors and rail together from the engine? are there clips or tabs that hold the injectors to the rail? where do the seals go (obviously, one on the top and bottom, but what about the other two)?

on the bright side, i'm hoping this is the reason the car has been running with an intermittent miss, and power keeps coming and going... even after an ignition system tuneup, egr cleaning, cat gutting, etc (which it needed anyway).

thanks for reading & the help.

sgraham01

visit hondapartsnow.com for exploded views. go ahead and get new seals for all 4 injectors and replace them all when to take the rail off. just unbolt the rail and lift it off. there may a few small vacuum lines and other small items to move out of the way also.

double b from wv

cool thanks a lot for the link.

sounds pretty standard then. ive pulled injectors on other vehicles, just not my accord before, so its always good to ask rather than assume!

for that price, i will get a set for each injector. if one is leaking, im sure the rest are right behind. and even if they come out intact, i doubt they would go back in without tearing... if they are like others ive dealt with.

so it looks like the 4-piece kit from napa comes with # 2, 3, 4, & 27

Bad_dude

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=4178

Try there. You probably don't need 4. But you need all the others. The torque specs on the fuel rail 3 nuts are 9ft/lb. The 17mm fuel rail bolt is around 12ft/lb. But I tighten it until it can't go any more without breaking it. Use clean engine oil to put the injectors in with the new seals. Be careful not to lose number 7 into the engine bay. I have a 1990 accord and I did not need to get the fuel regulator off, just take the 2 hoses off and leave it on the fuel rail. Be really careful when trying to take the silver springs clips out, you can damage the injectors if you are not careful. Once the clip comes off the gray electrical part might drop off so don't let the injectors drop. The filter might some off the injectors, so be careful, but the filter should fit snugs onto the injectors and not raised.
Easy, I did that today.

double b from wv

excellent. thanks for the tips.

so when you say that i will probably only use 3 of them, i assume you're talking about 3 of the 4 seals that come per kit, right?

as for the 4th piece that comes with the kit, is that the "injector insulator" that is mentioned in the CB7 forum as being optional to change? one person says they didnt need to change theirs, while someone else said that they did. i guess if the part comes in the kit, i might as well put the piece in while im at it. am i on the right track here?

what clips are you talking about? do they attach the injector to the rail? what do you mean by the injectors dropping? are you talking about when separating the injectors from the rail... remove clips, dont let injectors fall, ect? just trying to get a clear idea here.

thanks again.

Bad_dude

There's a metal clip the holes the gray part to the injectors. Once you have taken the clip off the gray square part can seperate from the injectors. If the car is old, some times the gray just seperate from the injector and it drops damaging the tip of the injector. The tip of the injector that goes into the intake has a needle like silver tip. This tip is sensitive to damage. As for the injector insulators, I did not change mine.
Good luck.

double b from wv

yeah, i got it done. pretty simple. i took some pics that ill post later. i ended up using all four of the pieces that came in each kit. there was a small o-ring for the top of the injector (where it slides into the rail), a rubber bushing that also went on the top of the injector that cusions the rail & injector. then there was the large rubber seat o-ring, and the rigid spacer thing (insulator?).

everything was pretty self explanitory once you got into it. the only part that didnt look identical to the original was the top o-ring. the new one is regular shaped (rounded), while the old ones looked more like rubber bands (flat).

took the car for a drive, and it still runs like hell. nots as bad though, since its not leaking fuel, but its still missing and power comes and goes. until last night, it wasnt throwing a code for anything though. i was a a friends house, and when i went to leave, the damn thing wouldnt run. when it finally tried to fire up, it would catch a little, but spit and sputter and woulnt rev over 1k. but it finally spit out a code for me.

i gotta get over there and see what the code is. im hoping a a tdc or crank position sensor gone bad... or something along those lines. it would explain the poor performance recently and it not running now.

thanks for the tips though! wish me luck

holmesnmanny

hey doubleb, I know there's a thread around here where you replied to me, I forgot to reply but try not to take anything I say to you in a bad way, I'm always just trying to help, bro.

Secondly, I wanted to tell you I just found a very small vacuum leak that's been bothering me for a while since I took apart my intake manifold and cleaned the **** out of it. When putting back in the injector rail you absolutely need to make sure that you take each o-ring and plastic ring that's at the end of the injector where it goes into the manifold and put some oil around it. I was sure there was a vacuum leak somewhere as it usually only caused a small surge when I was stopping and going so I took a new spray bottle and put some water in it and squirted throughout and found the leak around the number 3 o-ring where it meets the manifold.

So I poured some oil in an oil jug cap and took the rail off and took each o-ring and plastic ring and put oil around the outside, then put it back and it cured my vacuum leak and I could clearly see that the rings go all the way in instead of being slightly out as I think it binded on the manifold as I tried putting it in.. Some guys say to use silicone grease but I heard that can foul up oxygen sensors so just play it safe with oil.

double b from wv

dont sweat it man, i take it all in good fun. i dont mind the banter, and i hope you dont either. i dont mind a critical look at what i say either, because i dont know everything, and you hear and learn a lot of BS from a lot of people, so id rather be set straight than be wrong about something. so in short, its cool!

as far as this oil thing goes, if you absolutely insist, i will take them off and oil it all up. i didnt do that. i had a lot of oil and stuff on my hands from pulling them out, so i coated them with just my fingers, enough to see them change colors, if u know what i mean.

something else id like to know, if im re-doing it anyway... the plastic rings. one side has a slight bevel to it, and the other has a 90*-ish angle. know what im talking about? which way to those go in? i think i put them in with the angle up, but dont remember for sure.

double b from wv

holmesnmanny

Ok, my service manual only references the seal ring it doesn't reference the injector insulator, but I know that my car had the rubber o-ring type on top of the hard plastic one. And I think looking at the intake manifold opening, it appears to go from "top-down" as "large to small" so I think it would need to be put back that way.