farfrumugen

so i work for a big machine shop here in ny and i was in a discussion with my boss about a stuck bolt on my ej1. the bolt holding my strut fork to my lower control armm would not come loose for the life of me. he says hold on...goes in his office and pulls out a piece of paper from a machinist magazine and says here try this..after reading i was amazed at the results. we use Kano Kroil at work which is the best commercially available penetrating oil available and it didnt even work to get this bolt out. i did get the bolt out before being able to try this mixture but next time this is getting tried first.
here is an abbreviation of the article....
"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. the test device's were clinically rusted for similar results. many bolts were used then averaged for the torque numbers. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."


im buying a bottle of each and a squirt bottle today as i have to work on my car later. ill let you guys know how it goes...
adam jeffery

xide_12

oh wow I wish I know this earlier, I hope it works

I had to use a 6' steel pole over a 2' breaker bar, and a can of pb blaster to get my axel nut off of my accord. I was hanging from it and slamming this pole down trying to get it off. lol it ended up sheering the drive bit off on the other nut

300whpej

this might seem like a no brainer, but are you using 2 closed end wrenches and turning the the opposite directions? that same bolt on my 95 coupe came free with a 1/2" drive 17mm and a 17mm box end wrench.

Deetz

out of your list, i have found liquid wrench to be the best from my experience

300whpej

truth, i dont even consider wd40 or pb blaster anymore.

BlackDeuceCoupe

Good thread!

I've been an industrial maintenance machinist for years. What's that?!?!? LoL!

I maintain/repair industrial machinery -- from hand-held sized equipment, to 3 stories tall.

Finding good penetrating oil has been more than a passing fancy for me... it's a matter of survival.

If you'll pardon the pun, the one I've stuck with is : ZEP 45 (link)

This is NASTY NASTY ****!!! In my experience it'll break anything loose!

The 'problem' with ZEP 45 is... the smell will gag a maggot! I've cleared out a whole room full of machinists, using this stuff!

For enclosed areas, CRC Ultra Screwloose (link) is a better alternative (no smell at all).

I'll be curious to see what you discover...

farfrumugen

yeah i broke a cheap 1/2 drive breaker bar and a 1/2 drive ratchet trying to get mine loose. i ended up heating it with mapp gas and borrowing a buddies compressor and impact....6 seconds
adam jeffery

farfrumugen

to most it is a no brainer but i have seen many people tightening when they were trying to loosen bolts, many times the simplest answer is the correct one.
but yes i was turning them correctly, even the impact wouldnt take it off, had to heat it with mapp and hit it with the impact, heat it again and quenched it with water and hit it again with impact, then it finally came loose.
adam jeffery

farfrumugen

man this stuff works like a charm. it is definetly the best i have ever used.
the car im building isnt as bad as the my parts car but either way EVERYTHING I SOAKED CAME RIGHT OFF!!! i only let the mix sit on each part for 2-5 minutes.
the only issues i have with the stuff is it seperates quite quickly so you have to shake before each use, i used a plastic spray bottle and the seals were gone within 20 minutes and it would no longer squirt. i would suggest nitrile gloves when usuing this stuff but their is no bad smell and it is better than kroil by far which is what we use at work all the time. i am on the hunt for a proper bottle and then this will be a mainstay in the garage.
i was able to complete the whole job in about an hour and a half and comparably i spent 6-8 hours doing the same job basically on the parts car.
any questions just ask
adam jeffery

Ammadien

What do you suggest to apply it then? maybe just a metal container and brush?

Nate

Anon51

i'v used ATF to loosen and tighten rusted bolts before and it worked fine. adding acetone seems useless to me and somewhat dangersous as acetone eats paint as well as ruin plastic and rubber.

98civdx

Knock r loose works very good also.

farfrumugen

actually acetone is used in body shops to clean paint and plastic...lol
it would MAYBE eat it if you let it soak on the part or something. also i didnt come up with the formula. scientist that held the study did and im sure they didnt add an ingredient that would be useless.
only dangerous aspect about is that acetone is flammable.
adam jeffery

hondanube2010

in the original post he said hes gona put it in a squirt bottle

apexi_rsx

ive used that sea foam carb/ penitrating lubercant cleaner its some good shyt as well... i dunno if id ever consider wd40

farfrumugen

i was thinking either an all metal oil squirter oe a brush style application. or even a drip bottle. the seals only lasted for about 20 minutes so if its a quick job its no big deal.
adam

hard_boiled_EG

im gonna mix me up a bottle at work and try it out myself...

93egSLEEPER

Aero-Kroil is my fave for sure. never had a problem getting anything loose

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Bump for an old thread with good info - if anyone is trying this out, apparently there was an error in the original publication. Power Steering Fluid (PSF) was used, not ATF. Here is a document I found regarding this, but be sure to do your own research.