CV Split Boot, how is it?
#1
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CV Split Boot, how is it?
Hello,
I have the 1990 Honda Accord LX, 4AT. My passenger's side CV boot is busted. The grease though dark, but still feel fresh and no dirt in it. I think it's just recently when this happens. The grease is still flowing out slowly from the joint. There's no clicking noise yet when turning.
I am thinking of doing this myself to save some money. But I am thinking of using the Split boot from Autozone. What do you guys think about these boots? Obviously it might last as long as that of the one piece boot.
What's is the best way of cleaning the grease off the joint so I can reapply new grease?
Here's the boot link
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=12-0
I plan on using this red grease, would it be ok?
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=
Since the boot just break, I plan on getting it fix tomorrow. What is the chance that I have to replace the whole axle given that the joint is not clicking yet?
Thanks.
I have the 1990 Honda Accord LX, 4AT. My passenger's side CV boot is busted. The grease though dark, but still feel fresh and no dirt in it. I think it's just recently when this happens. The grease is still flowing out slowly from the joint. There's no clicking noise yet when turning.
I am thinking of doing this myself to save some money. But I am thinking of using the Split boot from Autozone. What do you guys think about these boots? Obviously it might last as long as that of the one piece boot.
What's is the best way of cleaning the grease off the joint so I can reapply new grease?
Here's the boot link
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=12-0
I plan on using this red grease, would it be ok?
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=
Since the boot just break, I plan on getting it fix tomorrow. What is the chance that I have to replace the whole axle given that the joint is not clicking yet?
Thanks.
#3
MM Gruppe B
Re: CV Split Boot, how is it?
CSKAuto(Kragen/Checkers)/ORLY sells new Cardone axles for ~$80.
I'd recommend ordering up a new axle and be done with it. Those split boots are more for emergency purposes.
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Re: CV Split Boot, how is it?
I found a mechanic that will do it for $90 replaced. I wonder if the axle he gets will last long? Do I need to redo the wheel alignment after the axle change?
I am thinking of do the front wheel bearing too. Is it something that can be done quickly while the axle is off or do you need a press to do it?
Thanks.
I am thinking of do the front wheel bearing too. Is it something that can be done quickly while the axle is off or do you need a press to do it?
Thanks.
#5
MM Gruppe B
Re: CV Split Boot, how is it?
I found a mechanic that will do it for $90 replaced. I wonder if the axle he gets will last long? Do I need to redo the wheel alignment after the axle change?
I am thinking of do the front wheel bearing too. Is it something that can be done quickly while the axle is off or do you need a press to do it?
Thanks.
I am thinking of do the front wheel bearing too. Is it something that can be done quickly while the axle is off or do you need a press to do it?
Thanks.
If its possible to purchase new half shaft assemblies I highly recommend doing so.
You should not need an alignment after the axle change. Usually just disconnect the BJ and tierod, to allow enough space to pull the axle.
To remove the hub/bearing assembly you can look at the procedure in the Rotor over Hub sticy here and here. If you do go that invasive it may be well worth it to do the ROH conversion. It would make changing out rotors much easier/faster. You would require a press to do the job.
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Re: CV Split Boot, how is it?
If you can find out what brand the axle is and if its new or reman'd. The problem with reman'd units is often the old CV cage is ground out by hand to allow larger ball bearings to be installed. This does two things, hand grinding the cage is not accurate and enlarging the windows to fit the larger ball bearings weakens the cages.
If its possible to purchase new half shaft assemblies I highly recommend doing so.
You should not need an alignment after the axle change. Usually just disconnect the BJ and tierod, to allow enough space to pull the axle.
To remove the hub/bearing assembly you can look at the procedure in the Rotor over Hub sticy here and here. If you do go that invasive it may be well worth it to do the ROH conversion. It would make changing out rotors much easier/faster. You would require a press to do the job.
If its possible to purchase new half shaft assemblies I highly recommend doing so.
You should not need an alignment after the axle change. Usually just disconnect the BJ and tierod, to allow enough space to pull the axle.
To remove the hub/bearing assembly you can look at the procedure in the Rotor over Hub sticy here and here. If you do go that invasive it may be well worth it to do the ROH conversion. It would make changing out rotors much easier/faster. You would require a press to do the job.
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Re: CV Split Boot, how is it?
With all of the poor quality remanu axle, should I just change the boot since the joint has not click yet?
I am checking the maintenance record on the previous owner, he mentioned CV boot replacement for $120 @95085 miles but not mentioning which side, most likely the driver's side was changed b/c it's newer than the busted side. Given the previous owner is cheap, would he just spend $120 on the boot replacement? I would think he replaced the whole axle.
The car has only 142k miles on it, so what is the chance of the axle being OEM still? Even if it's OEM, should I just redo the boot or is the joint going with this number of miles on it?
How long would an OEM axle last if you drive carefully?
Thanks.
I am checking the maintenance record on the previous owner, he mentioned CV boot replacement for $120 @95085 miles but not mentioning which side, most likely the driver's side was changed b/c it's newer than the busted side. Given the previous owner is cheap, would he just spend $120 on the boot replacement? I would think he replaced the whole axle.
The car has only 142k miles on it, so what is the chance of the axle being OEM still? Even if it's OEM, should I just redo the boot or is the joint going with this number of miles on it?
How long would an OEM axle last if you drive carefully?
Thanks.
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: CV Split Boot, how is it?
I went the split boot route twice on each axel of my '92...each lasted less than a year before falling apart. My axel was making a clicking/whirring noise driving the interstate for a good 10-20k miles and it never fell apart. Eventually, I moved to MD where split boots apparently don't pass inspection and had to put on reman. axels which worked well for the 30-40k miles I drove it after replacement with no issues. I bought the axels at NAPA and my only complaint is that they rusted more in 1 year than the original axels had rusted in 16-17 years.
Split boot is definitely not worth it, but make sure you get a quality reman if you don't go for new.
And those 10-20k miles before I replaced the axels...I wasn't exactly "careful" with them...I'm not exactly "easy" on my cars and the noise never got terribly bad.
Split boot is definitely not worth it, but make sure you get a quality reman if you don't go for new.
And those 10-20k miles before I replaced the axels...I wasn't exactly "careful" with them...I'm not exactly "easy" on my cars and the noise never got terribly bad.
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Re: CV Split Boot, how is it?
What do you guys think of the quality from this site?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...xle%20Assembly
Most are new and they also list the remanuf clearly.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...xle%20Assembly
Most are new and they also list the remanuf clearly.
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Re: CV Split Boot, how is it?
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