sliiiiced

I am building a b16 (pr3-2) cylinder head and its bare as of right now. What kind of price am i looking at to get it fully redone and port & polished?

Also, if someone could tell me what all exactly goes into the head that would be great, like a list or some sort of format to see if I'm headed in the right direction.

Ej6 LsV-T

For head work and port and polish your looking at anywhere from $500-$1,300just depends on the shop.
Also what are you wanting to do with this motor? Hp goals and so on..

sliiiiced

Im wanting to go N/A and im wanting 300+ hp. I'll be having my block sent of to be sleeved and when it returns I will have rods and high comp pistons to go back in it. where will i find all of the cylinder head internals? i bought ii bare.

Ej6 LsV-T

I went with bubby club p1 valves, blox dual valve springs, blox titainum retainers, blox adj cam gears. Im got my parts off inlinefour.com. I bought my b16 head bare and thats what ive got so far. Im building a built lsV T.

sliiiiced

Well where will i get rocker arms and the cam bridges or whatever they are called. i, sure ebay has them.

Corksil

I would go aftermarket parts, if you're looking at 300+hp from a 1.6 liter...

ebay, and do your research before you click buy.

sliiiiced

No No No i forgot a big peice of the info, Its going on a built and sleeved b20 block. Ive never rebuilt a cylinder head. And i have no clue where to find rocker arms and all the stuff needed to complete the head

mayfly

use skunk2 valves, dual valve springs, and skunk2 retainer, buddy club spec 3+ Camshafts, any adjustable cam gear,skunk2 intake mani with matching throttle body, 330 injectors, good exhaust, all that msd crap, chipped ecu and a damn good tune. then do whatever your doing to you bottom block and you should have plenty of power.

gsrhatch2356

Parts for a cly head don't yeild it better hp numbers they are just stronger so that it can handle stronger motors and higher rpms. The port and polish will give you more
power but you have to be careful. To big
of ports will make you lose power

mayfly

um camshafts do. bigger lobes allow more flow.

and dual valve springs prevent valve float.

and flat valves raise compression

DAMotorsports

were do u live Sliiised?

gsrhatch2356

Okay yes cams do duh, yes flat valves raise compression but you wouldn't notice the power diffrence if that is all you did. You might see 5hp gain on a dyno. And valve springs do prevent valve float but like I said does not increase hp just allows the cly head to handle higher rpms.

92bseries

gl squeezin 300+ hp out of a n/a motor

TheCivicMafia

Use stock head parts from a junkyard. Aside from Cams, Gears, Valves and springs

a rocker is a rocker when your going all motor on a b16. Your not welding enough hp to worry about other forged parts.

hondamark35

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/PP03.htm

check out this article above by Dave Baker of Puma Racing.

according to his rough calculations for potential power you're going to need a "money-is-no-object" full on race build to get ~285-300hp with stock diameter valves.

the more realistic you are with your goals in the beginning, the more satisfied you'll be with the finished product of your time, labor and money.

as far as internal components for the head rebuild... you're really better off having a complete head to rebuild. it's ok if commonly available items like the cams, springs, retainers and valves are missing, but to have a bare head without rockers and cam caps.. that's going to add a lot of expense. try to find someone in the marketplace here parting out B16 stuff. you may find some reasonable deals there.

sliiiiced

Like i said before its going on a built b20 block. Where can i find all these stock parts except for valves, valve springs, cams, and cam gears? a local junk yard?

I live in Oklahoma so the chances of someone helping are minimum. There arent many b20 vtecs around here at all.

Corksil

i'd check out junkyards and ebay (oem only, nothin aftermarket unless it's a good name and you trust the name.)

also post up a wanted ad on craigslist, keep in mind ppls dont know what a "b16a2 pr3 head valve rocker arm" is, so just ask for the car it would come from. be prepared to pull the parts yourself.

for 300 hp, expect to raise compression significantly, maybe sleeve the block and get a lightened crank/girdle too. good luck, take pics and make a build thread to shed light along the way for peeps like me just a step behind you.

sliiiiced

oh i will defiantly have a build thread posted. I will be having my block sleeved and MAYBE bored. If i dont get it bored out i will be getting high comp pistons put in.

should i do 11 or 12 ratio pistons?

sliiiiced

The guy i bought my head from (off ebay) gave me these two bars wuth spacers and something else on them? i will have picture up if someone would car to explain what the are.

Corksil

yeh post up a pic.

I would say high 11:1.

i wouldn't push it because destroying a sleeved block is expensive business.

i'm doing the exact same build, but i'm looking at supercharged waaay down the road. low end b20 torque, and high end vtec power, nice smooth power curve. perfect for a supercharger. I'm looking at high 10:1 for compression. best of luck. post pics.

and get your crank knife-edged/lightened. maybe even shotpeened, or get an aftermarket crank if you have mad cash.

Corksil

and a crank girdle.

sliiiiced

i was looking at crankshafts. would it ruin the point of a b20 vtec to get one? and what about the stroke. it would hit the head would it?

Corksil

you can get an oem spec (stroke) camshaft from an aftermarket company that has been made with lighter and stronger materials.

or you could get a stroker kit with custom pisons/rods/crankshaft. this would change the bore/stroke but would run you a few thousand bucks. it would be a good way to go if you have the money.

dude are you serious about 300whp? because that's easily 5 grand from where you are now.

for a moderate build, that won't leave you eating ramen for months to come (like I am >.<) then i'd have a machine shop knife edge your crank, which would lighten it. maybe shotpeen it too. look into prices. and get it balanced, crank girdle would help the b20 crank revving beyond it's oem spec.

sliiiiced

im serious as can be about 300 wph. ive got nothing but time in my hands. I just have only seen a few b20 vtec builds with people even touching the crank. what brand should i even look at buying?

sliiiiced

here's my plan for my N/A build

The block:

re-sleeve
Either buy a new crank or work on the one i have now
eagle rods
eagle high comp pistons
possibly block guard in case of cracking a sleeve
a girdle
new oil pan
magnetic drain plug

This alone I imagine will cost somewhere around 2-3 grand on the block alone. but I'm looking for reliable power. So i didn't expect anything different.

As for the head:

Entirely new valve train. I've heard good about going all skunk to in the head. Please shed light on this subject for me.
port & polished
new cam bridges
red powder coated valve cover
Golden Eagle vtec conversion kit

This will also cost around 2-3 grand. I expect this build to be expensive but have great turnouts and be very reliable in the end.

Im still debating which transmission to use. I hear the GSR tranny is the best for a DD car.