Dlauth

So I was checking out a 1998 honda accord EX 5 speed today and it had some problems.

First off, it starts fine and idles fine.
Once the car is in neutral and the clutch is pressed it dies.(what could this be?)
It also drives like it doesnt have any power and Vtec does not engauge.
I ran a obd2 scan and it pulled a P1259 VTEC System Malfunction, Rear Bank (Bank 1) code.(what could this be?)

My questions is are these fixable problems or should I stay away from this car?

jhondayang

check oil level.

Dlauth

Oil level looks good. Would this CEL cause the lack of power throughout the powerband?

HondaPartsHero

https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/%5Bfaq%5D-%22my-vtec-doesnt-work%22-1812135/

phootbag

I have never replaced a mechanical part in the VTEC system of a Honda besides a few pressure switches. For this vehicle, I would first check oil level. Air being sucked up into the system from the oil pan can cause delayed or no VTEC switch activation and this DTC.

Also, if viscosity is too high the pressure switch activation is delayed and this DTC can set. If the oil filter is clogged the same DTC can set.

Check oil level. If ok, perform an oil change with a honda factory oil filter. If the DTC doesn't return after driving in 1st gear at about 4k rpm for around 5 seconds and then a period of regular driving, ( you could always use a scan tool to check the condition of the p1259 monitor for 'PASSED' ) I would call it ok. Of course, if that doesn't fix it, the worst problem the car could have is needing a new engine. But, I imagine you'd notice other symptoms by now if it did, knocking rods, oil light on etc...

Dlauth

Im just wondering if the car is worth buying and the problem is fixable without spending a ton of money.

Its a 98 accord EX 5 speed
104k miles

only asking 2300 for it.

Has this problem and another that the car dies when the clutch is pressed.

phootbag

We had a car in our shop that would die when you pushed the clutch in. The thrust bearings for the crankshaft were worn from a very stiff aftermarket clutch. The crank sprocket would actually move far enough away from the crank sensor to stall the car. Not sure if this is your problem or not but the explaination of the symptom is the same.

As far as fixable, you need to have the car diagnosed to determine that. If the guy you want to buy it from won't let you take it to a shop to have it diagnosed, don't buy the car because the seller probably knows it isn't fixable.

hefmarkie

looks like this forum has been answered .... i have a similar problem and need to discuss it with someone. i will check back to see if there is someone to discuss it with.
thanks
mark

eddie_ek

DTC P1259: A problem in the VTEC OIL Pressure Switch circuit or VTEC Solenoid Valve circuit.

Special Tools Required


Pressure Gauge Adaptor O7NAJ-P07010A
A/T Low Pressure Gauge W/Panel 07406-0070300
A/T Pressure Hose 07406-0020201
A/T Pressure Hose, 2,210 mm O7MAJ-PY4011A
A/T Pressure Adaptor O7MAJ-PY4O120

1. Do the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) reset procedure.
2. Start the engine.
3. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
4. Road test the vehicle: Accelerate in 1st gear to an engine speed over 4,000 rpm. Hold that engine speed for at least two seconds. If DTC P1259 is not repeated during the first road test, repeat this test two more times.

Is DTC P1259 indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at VTEC solenoid valve and ECM/PCM.


Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the VTEC pressure switch 2P connector.


7. Check for continuity on the VTEC pressure switch between the pressure switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. Is there continuity ?

YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the VTEC pressure switch.


8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

9. Measure the voltage between the VTEC pressure switch harness 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there approx. 12 V ?

YES - Go to step 10.
NO - Inspect for an open or short to ground in the wire between the VTEC pressure switch and the ECM/PCM (C1O). If the wire is OK, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck.







10. Measure voltage across the VTEC pressure switch harness 2P connector. Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 11.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the VTEC pressure switch and G101. If the wire is OK, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck.
11. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
12. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve 1P connector.

13. Check for continuity on the VTEC solenoid valve between the solenoid valve 1P connector terminal and body ground. Is there 14 - 30 Ohms ?

YES - Go to step 14.
NO - Replace the VTEC solenoid valve.

14. Remove the VTEC pressure switch (A) and install the special tools as shown, then reinstall the VTEC pressure switch.
15. Reconnect the VTEC solenoid valve 1P connector and VTEC pressure switch 2P connector.
16. Connect a tachometer.
17. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
18. Check oil pressure at engine speeds of 1,000, 2,000 and 4,000 rpm. Keep measuring time as short as possible because the engine is running with no load (less than one minute). Is pressure below 49 kPa (0.5 kgf/cm2, 7 psi) ?

YES - Go to step 19.
NO - Inspect the VTEC solenoid valve.

19. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
20. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve 1P connector.
21. Attach the battery positive terminal to the VTEC solenoid valve terminal.
22. Start the engine and check oil pressure at an engine speed of 3,000 rpm. Is pressure above 390 kPa (4.0 kgf/cm2, 57 psi) ?

YES - Go to step 23.
NO - Inspect the VTEC solenoid valve.

23. With the battery positive terminal still connected to the VTEC solenoid valve, measure voltage between C1O and body ground. Is there battery voltage above 4,000 rpm?

YES - Go to step 24.
NO - Replace the VTEC pressure switch.

24. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
25. Disconnect the battery positive terminal from the VTEC solenoid valve terminal.
26. Check for continuity between the VTEC solenoid valve harness 1P connector terminal and the ECM/PCM connector terminal B12. Is there continuity?

YES - Go to step 27.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B12) and VTEC solenoid valve connector.

27. Check for continuity between the VTEC solenoid valve 1 P connector terminal and body ground. Is there continuity?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B12) and VTEC solenoid valve connector.
NO - Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.

Hope This Helps

hefmarkie

please let me know if you want the info i have first

HondaPartsHero

is the problem similar or identical?

hefmarkie

my problem is a 1/96 accord w/ 2.2 sohcd. came into my shop in pieces and we replace the complete motor. found several probs with connectors like tdc sensor at the end, now the vehicle will start and idle kinda semi rough for a honda but will not accelerate in place or in drive. good spark, only thing that i c is that the injector node light goes out at about 3k rpms and code 1259 re-occurs within seconds. i did start that trouble tree and tested the sensor and sol and had more on hand tested the same. screen clear. ehause not stopped up, o2 is sooted. i am attempting to deliver the veh but wont accelerate. need some positive direction. in thetrouble tree it was the other g/y wire that was batt vol.

jambo

try disconnecting exhaust sections . silencer may be choked up ,the cat may be choked up or collapsed causing way too much back preasure . cheap and easy to eliminate from the problem

hefmarkie

i removed the o2 sensor and didnt make difference , i will drop exhaust at manifold and see. still dont understand why node light goes out when i raise the rpms

phootbag

Double check that the TPS connector and the MAP sensor connector aren't switched. They can reach and are the exact same connector.

They funny thing about that situation is that the values are acceptable to the ECM in that a DTC will not set but the vehicle will have a hard time running just like you describe.

I do not have the vehicle in front of me. This makes it difficult to help. The p1259 can cause a default pattern and prevent rpm's over 4k, I believe. Make sure the TP and MAP connectors are correctly arranged and reply.

hefmarkie

thank you I will do that first thing in the morning. believe it or not I did look over other connectors and decided that they were all different BUT I guess not will let you know
Mark

hefmarkie

i was able to get back on my problem this morning. switched connectors, re-assembled the vtec sys and the veh is running like it should. thank you for your time and experience !! i bet it cost you at one time or another to get thru the same problem. again my grats to ya bro
mark

phootbag

The first time I saw this problem I went to these connectors right away based on what I saw on the data list.

.49v for a Map value Key on engine off. ( what TP should be key on engine off)

and 2.8v for a TP voltage key on engine off. ( What MAP should be Key on engine off )

Nic Holthe

thank you this saved me. Switched the transmission on install switched plugs. Now I'm good