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P2647 is a code for the VTEC oil pressure switch. This code is sometimes accompanied by an inability for the VTEC to physically engage, so the car won't rev above 3000 RPM or so.
Make sure that your oil level is full and that you are using either 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil - do not use a higher viscosity. You can try removing the VTEC spool valve and cleaning it out. You'll also want to remove the oil pressure switch itself from the VTEC valve and cleaning out the oil passages with some carb cleaner. Reset the computer. If it doesn't solve the problem, replace the pressure switch. They're somewhere around $60-65 IIRC. Do not over-torque it or it will break off.
From a maintenance standpoint, the worst thing you can possibly do to a K-series engine is run it low on oil for an extended period of time. You WILL sludge up the VTEC and VTC oil passages and the timing chain tensioner, and if the oil pressure drops low enough you can potentially stretch the chain and/or cause it to jump teeth on the camshaft sprockets and throw out the cam timing (or worse, bend valves).
If you know that your car burns oil, check it frequently. Make it a habit. Top it off as needed every time you fill up with fuel, or every 500 miles, or every 1000 miles, or however often is needed. Don't let it drop more than a half-quart low, which is about half the distance between the two dots on your dip stick.
Even if you don't know if your car burns oil or you don't think that it does, check it anyway. Some cars don't start burning off oil until 1000-2000 miles into the oil change interval.
From a maintenance standpoint, the worst thing you can possibly do to a K-series engine is run it low on oil for an extended period of time. You WILL sludge up the VTEC and VTC oil passages and the timing chain tensioner, and if the oil pressure drops low enough you can potentially stretch the chain and/or cause it to jump teeth on the camshaft sprockets and throw out the cam timing (or worse, bend valves).
If you know that your car burns oil, check it frequently. Make it a habit. Top it off as needed every time you fill up with fuel, or every 500 miles, or every 1000 miles, or however often is needed. Don't let it drop more than a half-quart low, which is about half the distance between the two dots on your dip stick.
Even if you don't know if your car burns oil or you don't think that it does, check it anyway. Some cars don't start burning off oil until 1000-2000 miles into the oil change interval.
i actually have too much oil right now. i checked my oil on my driveway, which is slanted and it showed it was below the dots, so i added some more. then i checked it on a flat level and now i'm a little over the top dot. i'm gna drain some of it tomorrow. could this be the cause of my CEL?
No. A little over full won't hurt it. If it's a half quart or more over then you should drain some out, but just a small amount like 1/8 or even 1/4 quart won't really hurt it.
The CEL is most likely unrelated. Check the pressure switch.
No. A little over full won't hurt it. If it's a half quart or more over then you should drain some out, but just a small amount like 1/8 or even 1/4 quart won't really hurt it.
The CEL is most likely unrelated. Check the pressure switch.
alright. it's pretty hard to find things behind the motor. -__- so little space. but tomorrow i'll look for a diagram or helm's manual to refer to. thanks for all the help!
I just had this problem. Thanks to this forum for the great information it provided me in solving the problem. I was chasing this "limp" issue for some time. I changed the oil pressure switch and checked the old one when I took it out. It tested out ok for continuity, did an ohms check, was about 1.3ohm. I was worried I didn't find the problem. Well I installed the new pressure switch and noticed the connector was very corroded. Ah... that's the problem! So I scrapped it with a wire brush and applied some electrode grease to the connector. Now she's running great.
I just wanted to include checking the connector for corrosion to this thread.
I just had this problem. Thanks to this forum for the great information it provided me in solving the problem. I was chasing this "limp" issue for some time. I changed the oil pressure switch and checked the old one when I took it out. It tested out ok for continuity, did an ohms check, was about 1.3ohm. I was worried I didn't find the problem. Well I installed the new pressure switch and noticed the connector was very corroded. Ah... that's the problem! So I scrapped it with a wire brush and applied some electrode grease to the connector. Now she's running great.
I just wanted to include checking the connector for corrosion to this thread.
Did you change both switches? Or just the rear one? My van gave the same code but I'm not sure if it's specific to the front or rear switch.
Thanks
Originally Posted by David Zychek
I just had this problem. Thanks to this forum for the great information it provided me in solving the problem. I was chasing this "limp" issue for some time. I changed the oil pressure switch and checked the old one when I took it out. It tested out ok for continuity, did an ohms check, was about 1.3ohm. I was worried I didn't find the problem. Well I installed the new pressure switch and noticed the connector was very corroded. Ah... that's the problem! So I scrapped it with a wire brush and applied some electrode grease to the connector. Now she's running great.
I just wanted to include checking the connector for corrosion to this thread.
Thank you for all the online help with fixing the P2647 issue on our 2004 Accord LX. The check engine light came on and would not rev past 2,500 rpm. It would jerk violently back and forth if I tried to kept accelerating. This is a 2.4L, inline 4 cyl, with auto trans with about 150k miles on it. I followed the videos below to remove and install a new VVT (VTEC) oil pressure switch I bought from my local auto parts store ($70). Make sure it is the Variable Valve Timing oil pressure switch and not the regular oil pressure sensor you are replacing. I used a 22mm deep socket for the install. The engine can now rev freely and "kick into VTEC" and there are no more engine lights on.
P2647 code " Rocker Arm Actuator Control System Stuck On (Bank 1)" for my 2008 Pilot
My biggest challenge was finding the VTEC Spool Assembly; FWD vs 4WD
08 Pilot FWD symptoms: P2647 code with the VSA light and the /!\ light
Only happened after the engine got to running temp AND I came to a stop with rpms dropping below 1000
Pilot was fine when engine was cold or if at running temp and rpms above 1000
Tried the following:
1) Oil level or quality issue: Oil was only ~1000 miles old fairly clean and practically full, added 1/4 qt - no improvement
2) replaced VTEC spool assembly oil sender ($172 for part) no improvement
3) took off VTEC spool assembly, cleaned spool assembly and replace the gasket (see pictures below) - same day and no more issues
Hardest part was finding the VTEC spool assembly on my 08 pilot, FWD vs 4WD
FWD Pilot has the VTEC Spool Assembly on top of the engine, oh.
Next; close up of circled area
Pulled the VTEC (someone called it the VVT) spool assembly off, cleaned it and changed the gasket (has a screen)
Symptoms gone, Honda Part # 15826-RDV-J01
FYI - (San Diego area) mechanic wanted $1000 to replace the VTEC spool assembly, $700 for the part and $300 to remove 2 bolts, 2 connectors, spray some cleaner and replace the $18 gasket.
Hi All,
my problem was exactly like restimemo's problem. it happens on low RPM.
let me explain what happened then i will share the solution with you guys.
my is 2005 Honda Odyssey Touring, it had 177K miles on it. i went to the Honda Dealer to make the timing belt replacement job and an oil change.
during the service they called me and told me that there is an oil leak from the oil pump housing seal, and that was right my car
was consuming a lot of oil, so they offered to do this fix for extra money,
the history:
I took the car and after 2 weeks i got this silly error code P2647. on the second day it was frequent and almost happens on every traffic light i stop by,
and i have to restart my engine to keep moving. so i took it back to the dealer to check if this is an effect of their last service, and
of course they denied that it has anything to do with the latest service. at they end, they told me that i need to replace the vtec spool valve and it will
cost $1K. so i refused to do the service because i can do it myself for $300 + i am sure that this is not the root cause as other people online just
do change the oil and filter. on my way home, i got engine misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 and random misfire, which immediately let me think that they
put the timing belt wrong and the cam shafts are not aligned.
however, i have ordered the OEM part online and arrived after a week. i installed it and the problem didn't go away. so i tried to work out the misfire
errors. i had a new spark plug and a re-manufactured ignition coil as a backup. once i put them in, the misfire is gone but the P2647 didn't.
so i cleared the code and used the car for a day to test it. by the end of the day, i got the same error again. by now, i am sure that these guys when
they did the oil pump fix must have clogged the oil passage, and not lets go to the solution.
Solution:
i was first thinking to do the same as restimemo did, however, i tried another way to clean up the oil, i used an engine flush. i ordered a new Honda oil filter, washer,
simply follow the instructions on the engine flush can + using it when the engine reaches the running temperature.
1- start you car till you reach the operating temperature.-> stop the engine.
2- add the engine flush.
3- start the engine again and keep it idling for 10 minutes. ( you can use the dashboard timer screen in the car)
4- stop the engine.
5- drain the oil and install a new oil filter.
6- put the new oil of your choice.
i noticed that the engine light came off during the first minute of using the engine flush. even the oil was 3 weeks old,
it cam out too black.
its been 3 days now since i fixed the problem, i will monitor the car for more 2 weeks and if there is any new thing happens i will
update the thread.
thank you very much for the inspiration about solving this problem.
I had the issue with my 2004 Element and you are right it would not go above 3000 rpms. I followed Eric the Car Guy who worked for Honda for 20 years and he said it was the VTEC solenoid. I chose to replace it rather than clean it as I have owned the car since 04. Problem cleared up after replacement. Good luck 🍀
05-13-2010, 05:37 PM
Re: P2647 causing limp?
