bingles

Hello Everyone,

about 6 months ago I installed a fully rebuilt head on my dads 1989 civic 1.8l (i think). Everything worked great passed timing has been running like a champ for my dad. Then during a really bad winter storm we had he said he started it up it ran, he moved it, it sat now it won't start. I did a compression test and its about 30psi on all plugs. So I thought timing was screwed, pulled timing belt it was dead on. Put timing belt back on and still bad compression. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Had plenty of antifreeze so I don't think it cracked, but not sure what I should check. If rings were bad why would it start then not start few days later? After I did the new head it had about 130 to 150psi accross the pistons now its 30psi.

Thanks

Brian

bingles

Here is a picture of how I did the timing with #1 at TDC

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

A leakdown test would/should tell you what's going on internally.

130-150psi seems on the low side so maybe there was a problem prior to the head swap and it's just now become enough of a problem to prevent the car from running.

bingles

I guess I am going to have to do some searching, I have never done a leak down test. I hope I don't have to buy expensive tools. Don't get me wrong I love tools and I love to learn new tests.. LOL

I am wondering if it has burnt valves or something? but would they all go at once? Same with the rings do they normally all go at once? I was expecting to find a few real low compression cyl and a few normal not all at or below 30psi. It behaves as if valves are open on compression stroke which I dont see how that can be when all the timing is perfect.

Well I most certainly thank you for the leakdown test suggestion and will check into what I need to buy.

Brian

bingles

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f49/...n-test-257985/

I just found a excellent step by step on how to do leak down test, now all I got to do is buy the tool. Still seems wierd all cylnders went at same time

Brian

bingles

How can I do a leak down test with out warming up the engine first?

bingles

This Compression test was done on a Cold Engine since it wont start but 30 t0 35 psi still seems way to low even if it is cold. Also the battery wasn't the best. I have it charging and will test again tomorrow.

Brian

zsoccerdude17

even on a cold engine30-35 is extremely low, when u changed the head what kind of head gasket did u use? And when u had the head work done were quality parts used?

bingles

Fel-pro gasket it wasn't a cheap one thats for sure, All head work was done performance machine shop, new valves, surfaced head, seals, the works. My dad wanted it done with good parts, so thats what I got him. This whole thing really confuses me because he said it ran fine moved it now it won't start. Correct me if I am wrong but if it was a head gasket wouldn't one or 2 cyl have low compression, not all equally real low? Only other thing I can say is its been sitting for 3 weeks because I been busy.

zsoccerdude17

yes on the head gasket thing, unless it was some shitty one and it just disintegrated, thats what happened with my exhaust gasket.

hatchbackattack

I have seen this multiple times. I am willing to bet you have carbon deposits keeping your valves open. You need to get a solvent based product like "GM Top Engine Cleaner" or Seafoam and with the plugs out fill the intake and cylinders and in anyway you can get the stuff on the valves, let it soak for a while, then crank the engine over for a while to loosen the gunk up that is on the valves, then put the plugs back in, change the oil and try and start it, it will most likely still take a lot of cranking, then slowly come back to life. My self and a few of my friends have resolved a problem vary similar to yours using this procedure. I would at least check it out.

jlicrx

that camshaft timing is correct if the engine is a D15B1 or D15B2 - it is not correct for the D16A6 engine - D16A6 cam gear has a mark at about 7 o'clock which lines up with the pointer on the inside back timing belt cover - the two marks at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock won't be used and won't line up with anything

ChokolAwt

iTrader: (1)

did you floor the gas pedal while you where cranking it? unplug the main relay?

bingles

I am pretty sure its the stock D15 type engine.

No I didn't floor the gas peddle, I will try that today.

Brian

bingles

besides that I timed it this same way when I did the head last spring, and it passed smog and timed perfect on timing light.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

You should find out what motor it is because up top you said 1.8 and the old civics like ours never came in a 1.8 variant.

keoman

Would love to know what became of this.
Having Almost the exact same problem as you had on a 92 civic D15B7. Drove the car about 250 miles to home. Avg 45 MPG, ran fine. Left it sitting a week in NON freezing temp's, now it has very low compression and won't start.
Similar part: replaced the head 18k miles ago. Checked compression after, all about 160.
Different: I replaced my rings because they were gone. Thing was eating a quart of oil every 400 miles. Water pump was leaking from weep holes (that's why it was sitting until I could get home to replace it) Started leaking about 10k miles ago, kept it full though.
I also found it interesting that it ran fine, got 45MPG when I parked it and now it won't even fire. I thought somebody messed with it before I started testing.

Caoboy

Please make a new thread and ask your question. You're bumping a 5 year old thread, it's obvious what became of it.

sstupid

It has to be timing. Belt probably skipped.

keoman

Right you were sir.
30k miles on a gates water pump and the bearing was completely shot. So much it caused the pulley to angle enough to allow slack in the timing belt and it jumped teeth. Was 180* out when I took it apart. Thank goodness it's a non-interference engine...

Thanks for the suggestion, I had honestly written it off.
321k miles and it's gonna keep going for now

sstupid

Sometimes..................I am awesome.

Glad you got it figured out!