thecruzs2007@yahoo.com

so im purchasing a cf duckbill and the clear coat is fading so i was wondering wat kind of clear coat and grit sanding paper to use to remove the current clear on there..i know i have to wet/sand..

thecruzs2007@yahoo.com

anyone?

delsolproblems

CF hoods don't usually have a regular clear coat per se. Most have a clear gel coat that is (supposed to be) more flexible than the typical hard clear. You don't need to wet sand when removing the old coating and you may not have to remove all or possibly any of the old clear. Either post pics of the hood or show it to a local painter to see if the fading can be repaired with just a cut and buff or if it really needs a new coating.

nix94delsol

800 wet, then buff

vtechjunkie

iTrader: (2)

What do you mean "it's fading"? Is it turning yellow, or what is it doing? Pics would be the best way to get an accurate solution. Most CF parts don't have a clear-coat, but a clear gel rather. If they are quality they will anyway. If you opt to sand and re-clear the part, then DO NOT go all the way to the carbon. It will begin to fray and you will never get a good finish on it again. There will be little strands poking out all over the place. As far as what grit you would want to use:

1.just use a heavy grit like a 180 grit to get through the nasty stuff. This will also give the new gel-coat a good surface to stick too. Make sure to keep moving and be aware of the amount you are removing. DO NOT GO THROUGH. Makes it much more of a pain in the ***. Especially if you sand all the carbon away. LOL!

2. Use a good quality marine grade clear gel-coat and thin it with some styrene.
You can spray it through a gun that way.

3. Wet-sand it with some 800, then some 1000, after you spray, and allow to cure for a good 5-6 hours. This way it won't shrink any more after you get it sanded and buffed.

4. Then buff it with a rough cut solution. I like Ferecla the best.

5. Then use your favorite wax to get it nice and shiny.

Good luck with that man!

rezistk20

maybe like 200 to get it clear coated again?

EusebioSam19

iTrader: (2)

Having the same thing, but mine has spots that are just flaking off, I just rub what I can off but was wondering if I wet sand also is there a diy thread on how to re clearcoat or clear gel?

Doc13

^^^What he said+ Whatever you are going to use, make sure it is a UV resistant/blocker coating.

da_wesmeista

I'm having the same problem. Mine actually has places that are cracked like a spider web. None of the imperfection look very deep so I'm pretty sure it can be fixed. I'm very interested if your able to find a way to easily re-clear it yourself.

johnzy00

WHAT????? 180 200! thats crazy. If it's just fading or even peeling hit it with 600 feather all edges. if your wanting to keep it carbon fiber DO NOT GO THROUGH THE GEL COAT!!!!!! if it's just the clear peeling like i said hit it with 600 make it all smooth and reclear it with some nice automotive clear coat. No need for special gel coat treat it like a regular painted spoiler. I've painted, candied, recleared many hoods decklids spoilers what ever and never had any issues.

vtechjunkie

iTrader: (2)

Now now, painting is much different than carbon fiber work. The problem with many carbon parts these days is that they are over-layed fiberglass, not real vacuum infused or pre-preg parts. Meaning that the resin used in the lay-up is not very good quality resin, and will yellow, crack, and fade after time in the sun. It also sits on top of the carbon, not embeded in into it. You can get most; if not all of it, off relatively easily without taking the carbon off with it. The reason you don't want to "feather" your edges and re-clear it is because, upon doing so, you will go through the old crappy clear and it will chip off as you go. Little by little. Then you will be chasing down the frayed edges(delicately) for much longer than if you had just blocked it all off(vigorously). When you do this(delicately) and re-spray it, you will have a ever-so-slight ring where the old and new coats intersect. That intersection will need to be blocked and sanded(to make the finish proper again), taking up just as much time as if you had just blocked it all to begin with. If this is no big deal then go for it. Not to mention, if the clear is peeling then the resin under it is probably yellow as hell too. You will want to get rid of that B.S., so that the piece looks like new again. That is why you WILL need the marine gel to make sure that it doesn't do it again later. Marine gel-coat is much stronger than automotive clear, and it will be way more scratch/U.V. resistant. I have worked with carbon parts for many years now, this is the best way to make sure that you don't have to do this process again in another 6 months. GL!

l337h4l

http://www.jgreer.com/
You can not find a true marine resin that has UV protection. your best bet is to as said before 800 1000 1200 maybe even 2000 and then clear it with automotive clear if you stop at 1200 as it has UV blocker in it or mothers buffing compound if you go over 1200.

My current project is a full carbon fiber wrapped 92 Hatch. Most cheap CF manufactures use Urethane that's why they all yellow and tend to spider crack. True infused or well built CF manufactures use Epoxy Resin as I put in the link above to bring a true clear finish that wont yellow.

The next step up is WEST Systems 105 Epoxy resin with the 207 Hardener 3:1 ratio for clear results, but the cost is double of the link I posted above.

You tube "carbon fiber wrap" there is one company in the UK with a few videos and no "Gel coat" is used that's on Fiberglass moldings

vtechjunkie where is a link to Marine gel?

johnzy00

Thank you my fellow ohioan!

vtechjunkie

iTrader: (2)

Well "l337h4l", the best manufacturers don't use RTM manufacturing methods to produce parts. They use a Pre-Preg carbon and an Autoclave. So if you want to get technical, both of us gave somewhat false info. As for a urethane, that actually has very little to do with the yellowing of a part. More with the rigidity of said part(more flexible to be exact). No matter what you use as a resin/clear, if it's not UV resistant then the resin will yellow. If the resin is too thick the color of the resin will show as well. As with the gel, too thick it will show. Urethane would be MORE flexible and not crack. Epoxy would crack faster, but has a higher strength. Furthermore; if your catalyst takes a 3/1 ratio to "kick", then it is extremely inefficient. I use a 10(resin)/1(catalyst) ratio, and it works great. As for the link to these materials; call Composites One or Solar Composites. That is where I get my materials from.


The one thing you were right about was that there are companies that don't use gel-coat. It's not an essential aspect of manufacturing. Just a easy way to make a good clear look and finish without being too labor intensive.


This is not an argument though. It's a tech thread to help someone out with their part.

Bayu Nugraha

Hai guys,

Iam also, doing some small project for the car grill, but i haven't any experience in handling carbon fiber, i have doing several project for fiberglass. Reading several instruction to laminate carbon fiber have to using epoxy, ive looking for the epoxy but its very rare, if it possibly if we laminate the carbon using polyester or vinyl lester?

doctorake

Thread is 5 years old., start a new one instead.

CX-Adam

Also, you'll get more and better responses in the "Paint and Body" sub-forum: https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/