Andy@AMR

I have a 1997 Honda Accord Sedan VTEC here in the Philippines, and it seems that 1 of my Vacuum lines is disconnected. I have searched the site and tried to google a diagram, but I can't seem to locate one.

I looked to see if I had a OBD-2 diagnostic port because I am having some problems with the car getting REALLY BAD Gas Mileage, and ofcourse it doesn't.

So I will need 1995 Vacuum Diagram since these cars are not the same as my 1996 Honda Accord back in the states.

I'd like to solve this problem first before starting to fix the idle issue, and see why in the world this car is getting such bad gas milage. The car runs great other than the fact I have burned through 3/4 of the tank and have only clocked less than 200km.

I am going to do a full tune up, but for some reason I hope it's not the ECU. Can't adjust idle, poor gas mileage...I have seen the ECU being at fault causing the problems.

fastlane2

So were does this vac line go to?
I'm also asumming that your engine is make a hissing noise at idle from the port. Its one of the following: egr system, Cruise control, Evaporated control system (typically on TB), You might also have a rear Vac controlled mount. When I installed my H22a I hooked this up all the time bypassing the valve. What engine do you have F22B1 or H23a vtec

Check your grounds, the resistance of the plug wires OEM one last for ever 10-14k ohms, Check coil for ground, adjust valves properly, make sure timing belt isn't lose or bad, Broken spring in PVC valve. If I had compression gauge I'd check that. If its a auto make sure your TVS cable is set right.

Andy@AMR

Man, this car is throwing me in all sorts of a loops.

I looked at the engine, and I thought it would have a F22, but right on the block it says PH22, and it has a SOHC VTEC Head. Is this stock or some form of hybrid. Never heard of that, never seen it. Funny thing is I had the exact same car in the US for 10 years! But this car has a few quirks that is different from mine.

To add to that, I was going to clean the EGR ports, and this intake manifold does not have the plate that I was used to removing on my old accord to clean up the ports. I will post some pics in a momment.

The disconnected line is coming from the Evap canister.

redbull-1

One thread indicates the PH is standard code engines in the Philippines. Another indicates the PH22 is actually a F22.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/96-accord-idling-problem-1412307/#post18262780

http://www.accordtuner.com/board/sho...d.php?p=432648

accord2nrz

You have an F22B1 motor. When did this problem start? your idling issue, depending on what it is, is a result of your broken vacuum line. Did you look under your hood? Most hondas have a vacuum diagram there. If not then I can upload a diagram from my shop manual for you. I won't be able to do it for 3 or 4 more hours though.

Tell me about your idling and perhaps we can kill two birds with one repair.

Andy@AMR

Ok, here is the entire story.

Over a year ago I had gotten into a pretty bad car accident here in the Philippines. The entire front end of the car was replaced while I was back in the US. I was unable to return due to work. I just arrived last week, and I picked up the car. The bodywork turned out to be okay. There are some small issues with the bodywork, but nothing that can't be fixed.

Mechanically there was a few issues from the start. The car was noisy due to a large hole in my exhaust pipe, and the cars AC was shitty even though it was recharged and replaced due to the accident. Also they did not get the car aligned.

So I had another shop fix the AC, and then I had the shop next door to the AC shop weld the hole shut on my exhaust. So I fixed those 2 problems. I also had the car aligned after I had picked it up.

One of the things that caught my eye was that my engine bay was VERY VERY DIRTY, and I had questioned if it was my original motor and they said it was. So after a few days I started to notice a few problems.

First off the belts squeal like no other. Even though they have been tightened I still have a squeak. So I am having them replaced. I would do all the work myself, but the damn shop that did the bodywork took my tool kit in my trunk and deny that it was there. So I can't do any of this easy work myself.

Next thing I notice is there is 1 vaccum line that is not connected. I need help locating a diagram so I can make sure all the lines are where they are suppose to be.

Now the car drives great, it starts up great, but the car idles very high. I had taken it to a shop to have the idle adjusted and the timing checked, but the idle screw on the throttlebody will not allow me to lower the RPM's past 1,000. I was shooting for 700rpms, and 15degrees of timing.

But the biggest problem is the gas milage. It is horrible. I have yet to even break 200kms. I remember when I was driving it prior to the accident that it got WAY better gas mileage than that, I honestly feel I should be in the 400's. So I am wondering what could be the fault.

The thing is I need to check if the check engine light is even working. Cause it looks like someone had removed the gauge cluster panel, and we all know it is a pain in the *** to remove. But I wonder if someone removed the bulb and there is a check engine light that I do not know about. If I assume right now that the check engine light is working, then the car is not throwing any codes. It does run good other than the fact I can't adjust my idle lower than 1,000 and my gas mileage is just plain horrid.

I really feel I need to look the entire car over, but I'd like to see if I can solve the problem by knocking out a few things. I wanted to clean the IACV, Fix the vacumm line, and then try to adjust the idle and timing. If I can get that resolved, then I can move onto why the car is eating up soo much gas.

Andy@AMR

Here are some pictures of the bay if it helps anyone.

I also made a RED box around where I believe the vaccum line belongs. But till I have a diagram it simply is a guess.

accord2nrz

Holy hell brother. It sounds the shop did you wrong by far. To check if it was your orginal motor drive it up on stands and crawl underneath, on the back on the left hand side is a green plate stamped onto the motor. That place is engraved with your VIN number. Match that to the VIN on your dash or on the door info panel. That should answer your question there. If it is not your VIN take a picture of each and file a grievance immediately cause u got scammed.

Anynow if it is your motor then your high idle is becuase of the broken vacuum line, which is what I suspecting. fixing that vacuum line will solve the idle and the gas mileage issue in my opinion. Before you go diving in the motor again, get some degreaser, hit up the engine with it while its hot and let it sit, then rinse all that gunk off before you begin working.

Try putting some belt dressing on your belts or just replace em.

accord2nrz

LOL! Yea that's where it goes.

Andy@AMR

Yah, there is a car wash here that I am having clean the engine bay, and the entire underside of the car. I bet you when they took my motor out they had let it sit in the a corner and just let it just get really dirty.

The shop did a good job with the bodywork, but there are small things that have been bothering me. I am definately going to go back there and complain and try to get them to do a oil change, and tune up for free.

Andy@AMR

I put my finger over both to see if my idle would change and it didn't.

I also found 1 more line near the airbox that is disconnected and I tried to plug that to see if there would be a difference, but it didn't change a thing.

I definately need to track down a diagram for this motor so I can trace everything.

I did unplug my IACV to see if there would be a change with idle as well as to see if my check engine light would activate. Well guess what, my car almost did die, and barely idled, but my check engine did not go on no matter how many times I turned it off and on, and let it die. So my assumptions might be correct that someone had removed the bulb cause I can see marks on my dash that someone was messing with the panel.

I should have noticed that when I start the car the check engine light does not light up before you start the car! DOH!!

fastlane2

Look them straight in the eye and tell them about your missing tools and issues. Then report them to organization like BBB in the US.

Part of your air cleaner is upside down I think. Check to see if your egr valve is open. If you unplug the EGR vac line and it improves you've found the problem. Both egr and vac leaks will cause this unless you have copper plugs that have 100k miles or 160km on them. also check the TPS voltage if its way off It will cause lean or rich issues should be at .500 volts this a common issue when removing engines. I messed my Tps up on my TB when doing a H22 swap, caused it to dump fuel into the engine mine was at 1.2 volts.

accord2nrz

placing your finger over the hole in the picture shouldnt have done anything. the vaccum was coming from the hose that should have attached to it. Place your finger over the hose and see if your idle changes. You should hear a whistling noise coming from it. If not and the idle doesn't change the problem is else where.

Andy@AMR

The other line that I found that is not connected is pinned under the airbox. I think your right that there is something up with the airbox as well. I will try to locate the EGR valve on this thing and see if that is the problem.

Thanks guys!

fastlane2

Your engine doesn't have a egr valve. Emissions must not be that strict. So don't worry about that.

redbull-1

Here are vacuum diagrams for a F22B1 and F22B2/B5:

Andy@AMR

Thanks everyone for your help. I am getting somewhere finally. And yes my check engine light was removed, so I am working on fixing that so I can see what trouble codes pop up. I bet you my o2 sensor is not working, and/or my car is in limp mode cause it's eating up a ton of gas.

Andy@AMR

You know what is funny, the guys that I had look at my car told me that one of the vacumm lines goes to the damn headlight. That can't be right lol. What the hell would that do. Anyways, ofcourse the blub and socket for both my seatbelt and check engine light was removed.

I knew that there was something that wasn't right when I saw marks on my dash. I had a code 6 which is the coolant temp sensor, and that definately will make gas mileage go down the drain. I am having a hard time locating one here in the Philippines. Though that was only the check engine light I had

I had the idle checked and the ignition timing timing set. But they had told me they had to max out my distributor in order to get the timing to go back to where it should be.

They stated that I might be a tooth off or have the wrong pulley. That doesn't quite make sense to me, but I am driving the car right now and it seems to drive fine.

They told me that it the dizzy should be right in the middle when setting the ignition timing. You think there is indeed a problem there? Other than that I replaced my plugs, and air filter. I am happy with everything so far, just a few more things to fix and my accord should be back to 100 percent

fastlane2

Check your timing belt tension or timing belt for that matter.