madmanshima

So just need some opinion,dont wanna start a OEM vs. ACL debate,just need some info.anyway in december i will be pulling my gsr motor and boostin it,i will be running eagle rods with arias 9.0:1 pistons,anyway it will be a street/strip car.it will be more used for daily driving rather than track,it might see the track maybe twice a month,anyway i will be running it hard but need it to be reliable.whats your opinions on wheather i should run race or duraglide ACL bearings.the car will be pushing between 300-325whp.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Either one will work just fine, just see what most of the crank bearings are in color and compare them on the chart and get a set of bearings that closest to your thickness there is standard and a thinner and a thicker set from acl. the race bearings dont have the coating on them and seem a little harder material. ive used both with great success

madmanshima

thanks turbo-ls,anyone else?

Glock17

ACL duraglide is fine or the Race one. It a matter of choice I have ran duraglide in my car with no problem what so ever. Just make sure you get the correct size bearing and plasti gauge is your best friend.

srmofo

I thought I read that the Race versions had slightly larger clearances(thinner bearing) Thats not the ideal thing if its just a DD that gets abused every once in a while. Unless you like rebuilding

Someone please correct me If I am wrong. Thats just what I remember reading a while back

tepid1

ACL Race bearings are pretty damn good in my opinion.

Glock17

I have experience with both bearing and both held up fine. OP just make sure you have the correct size bearing and take your time when assembling the motor.

madmanshima

alright thanks guys for all the replies,i'll keep looking into it and see which ones i wanna run,thanks again.

Boosted_B_Series

I've built quite a few engines using both bearings, never a issue to date, most are daily driven, including my 81/89mm gsr using ACL Race bearings.

pettyboy69

iTrader: (2)

iv never ran duraglide but i have ran ACL and never had a problem

madmanshima

thanks guys.

The sweed

What kills good bearings are dirty oil, heat, high rpm and a small oilfilm area.. RPM are way more agressive on bearings than big power..

If you have a high rpm engine. Get harder bearings that can hold the oilfilm and a little looser clearance. Try to get bearings that do not have the holes in the rod bearings.. When the rods rotate the wholes acts like a strip around the crank that could not hold the oilfilm and that puts more load to the rest of the bearings oil film.
As a general rule the thicker oil the more load the oilfilm can take.. So maybe a thicker oil like 20w50 or so is a better choice than a "cold start oil" like 0w40 etc..

I have not found the ACL race bearings without the holes and ACL does not list the surfice "hardness" of their bearings.. So I debate my self if I should get the regular acl LS rod bearings without the wholes or the race bearings with the wholes for a race engine build..

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

King bearings and celvite bearings also do very well in honda engines. basically its all in the assembly and maintinence of the engine and what oil weight you run in accoridance with the bearing clearence you have

madmanshima

what do you guys run for your clearences for mains and rods?remember my motor will be mostly used for daily driving not all out race,and as far as putting it together for a turbo setup,this is the first time i will be building for a turbo setup,all my motors before have been all motor.and what weight do you guys run for the motor oil?

srmofo

stock clearances ....whats the climate like in NC this time of year.your owners manual will have a chart that describes what weights to use in certain climates.

If youre putting forged pistons in, then run a slightly larger p2w clearance

Transpoquick

Yeah your shooting for stock Oil clearances no matter what your build level, whether you use direct fit(colored bearings) or aftermarket(no colors,....colors suck).
The way you get stock clearances is by starting with good parts IE a un- molested crank, polishing is okay but cutting or re-surfacing the journals is not acceptable, block and main girdle has to be in excellent condition too.
I always use standard size aftermarket bearings, ACL race are great but so are cheaper ones like "Rock" Brand or even what they give you off the shelf at your local AP store.
The key is too start with good parts and use plasti gage to determine oil clearance and taper. Proper installation is what your after not brand name. Good luck!!

madmanshima

alright thanks,and as far as piston to wall clearance go,what do you guys reccommend,i'm running 9.0:1 arial 81.5 pistons,i'm taking the block in to the machine shop in couple weeks to have them mic and bore out the block,just wondering how much larger i should run the piston to wall clearance from stock?

tepid1

I'd go .0040 piston to wall

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

.0040 is a bit much ptw for a 300ish whp build dont you think chris? Id recomend a .0030 to .0032 dont need to run a really loose motor for 300whp.

madmanshima

alright so around .0030-.0032,thanks.

kyden

better a little loose than too tight. esp if you plan on making more power later.

Bond

True as I had mine set to .0035 with my cp's. They recommended .0030, but we figured a little more couldn't hurt.

GE installed ACL race bearings in my motor, but yet to run them so we'll have to see. I'm really not too worried, but as said before I've been told to run a thicker then normal oil to make up for the added clearance and achieve a better oilfilm area coverage.

madmanshima

well since its gonna be a DD,i'm probably not gonna go more than 350whp,anyway what do you reccommend?

madmanshima

what weight oil do you plan on using?

Bond

10-40 is what I've been told to use. Was originally recommended 10-30, but I'm pretty set on running 10-40 now.