1990 Accord crank no start
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Hicksville, NY, USA
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1990 Accord crank no start
I have a '90 accord F22a4 that cranks but doesn't start after I replaced the head gasket.
I checked the timing belt... I had lost the timing marks, but as I understand it as long as both the arrow on the camshaft and crank sprocket are pointing up, it is ok (and I double checked TDC with a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole).
I checked for spark by taking out a plug and grounding it while cranking. It was sparking.
I checked for fuel pressure at the rail by disconnecting the return line and cranking. Fuel was there.
The distributor had gotten wet while it was off the engine, so I was worried about the CRANK/TDC and CYL sensors. I checked the resistances on the connector in accordance with my Haynes and that checked out ok.
Next I checked the voltage to the coolant sensor. My Haynes says that it should be getting a supply of 5V KOEO. It was only getting .53V. Not sure if that matters. The resistance across the sensor itself is OK.
I checked the voltage at the injector connectors with KOEO. I was actually getting about 10V to both sides. Not sure that that means. The resistances in the resistor pack were OK.
Next I tried to test the MAP sensor. The Haynes says that should also have a supply voltage of 5V. I was getting almost 10V here too.
I am wondering if the PCM is fried. I accidentally grounded both the battery and alternator while removing the head (I grounded the alternator when the wire I unclipped from it hit the engine). I replaced the blown battery fuse.
I checked the timing belt... I had lost the timing marks, but as I understand it as long as both the arrow on the camshaft and crank sprocket are pointing up, it is ok (and I double checked TDC with a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole).
I checked for spark by taking out a plug and grounding it while cranking. It was sparking.
I checked for fuel pressure at the rail by disconnecting the return line and cranking. Fuel was there.
The distributor had gotten wet while it was off the engine, so I was worried about the CRANK/TDC and CYL sensors. I checked the resistances on the connector in accordance with my Haynes and that checked out ok.
Next I checked the voltage to the coolant sensor. My Haynes says that it should be getting a supply of 5V KOEO. It was only getting .53V. Not sure if that matters. The resistance across the sensor itself is OK.
I checked the voltage at the injector connectors with KOEO. I was actually getting about 10V to both sides. Not sure that that means. The resistances in the resistor pack were OK.
Next I tried to test the MAP sensor. The Haynes says that should also have a supply voltage of 5V. I was getting almost 10V here too.
I am wondering if the PCM is fried. I accidentally grounded both the battery and alternator while removing the head (I grounded the alternator when the wire I unclipped from it hit the engine). I replaced the blown battery fuse.
Last edited by peter_x; 09-18-2009 at 02:47 PM.
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Hicksville, NY, USA
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 1990 Accord crank no start
All the fuses are good with the exception of the condenser fan. I did reconnect that ground, but I haven't checked it. Thanks for reminding me of that.
Is there any way to tell if the injectors are actually working? I had another car where I could take off a spark plug and watch the mixture shooting up while cranking. I tried that here but I don't think I could really see anything. I'm not sure how safe it would be to remove the injectors and rail together and crank the engine.
Is there any way to tell if the injectors are actually working? I had another car where I could take off a spark plug and watch the mixture shooting up while cranking. I tried that here but I don't think I could really see anything. I'm not sure how safe it would be to remove the injectors and rail together and crank the engine.
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Hicksville, NY, USA
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 1990 Accord crank no start
The t-stat ground has continuity. I can't think of what else to do.
Edit: I found another ECU fuse in the under dash fuse box, that was good too.
Edit: I found another ECU fuse in the under dash fuse box, that was good too.
Last edited by peter_x; 09-19-2009 at 08:46 AM.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pompano Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 3,495
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
Re: 1990 Accord crank no start
Ok, you checked electrical things, and you also checked for fuel and spark, but we're missing the third item on this love triangle. You need spark, fuel and compression for the engine to start and continue to run.
Use a compression gauge, remove one spark plug and disconnect the distributor plug to the harness, then... install the gauge and turn the key on and crank it for a few seconds (never more than 10 seconds).
Use a compression gauge, remove one spark plug and disconnect the distributor plug to the harness, then... install the gauge and turn the key on and crank it for a few seconds (never more than 10 seconds).
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Hicksville, NY, USA
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 1990 Accord crank no start
I checked for compression, it seems ok.
I took out the main relay to test in accordance with these instructions:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...nrelay_tst.htm
But my relay doesn't have a #4 terminal. It has everything except that. Does anyone know the correct procedure for mine?
Thanks.
I took out the main relay to test in accordance with these instructions:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...nrelay_tst.htm
But my relay doesn't have a #4 terminal. It has everything except that. Does anyone know the correct procedure for mine?
Thanks.
Trending Topics
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Hicksville, NY, USA
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 1990 Accord crank no start
Ok, I started the car. After realizing I no longer had spark, I got a new distributor and the car started.
But I think the timing belt if off a tooth. I can hear what I think are the valves hitting the pistons. Like I mentioned in the first post, I set cam sprocket so the "up" was facing up as close as I could get it. I set the bottom end to TDC on #1 with a screwdriver. Also, when you give it gas, it takes a long time for the revs to come down. Is there something I did wrong?
Thanks.
But I think the timing belt if off a tooth. I can hear what I think are the valves hitting the pistons. Like I mentioned in the first post, I set cam sprocket so the "up" was facing up as close as I could get it. I set the bottom end to TDC on #1 with a screwdriver. Also, when you give it gas, it takes a long time for the revs to come down. Is there something I did wrong?
Thanks.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeremy Harris
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
21
05-02-2016 10:58 AM
more3688
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
6
02-14-2015 06:41 PM