harker

ok so i just put in a compition stage 2 clutch and pressure plate also a new flywheel (b18b hydro). after i got everything together the car wont go in gear while its running. while its off it goes in all gears but a lil crunchy i geuss.. i bled the clutch the best i could. i started it in first then let off the clutch and it grabed but when i pressed the clutch back in it felt like it was still grabing a lil bit witch is the reason i cant get it in gear while its running...now the only thing i can think of is maybe i tightend the presure plate too much (is that possible) or im not getting enough pressure to fully press in the clutch with the stiffer pressure plate.


Can someone please shed some light on this for me im stressin and i really just wanna drive my baby again..i have been researching and i still am but im running out of time please help

grtperformance

It sounds like during installation one of 3 things could have happened.
1) The splines got messed up stabbing the transmission, or
2) the plate got bent itself or
3) The plate is in backwards

You could try and bleed it one more time but it sounds like the disc is hanging up and not allowing the transmission to spin freely. It doesn't sound like it is the clutch assembly itself although I do know from past experience that the quality of the competition brand does leave something to be desired.

Honda Bull

1. What torque did you tighten the pressure plate bolts to? And did you torque them in an alternating, criss-cross pattern?

2. With the clutch depressed and coasting in gear, is it difficult to remove it from that gear?

3. Was the clutch fork and throwout bearing installed correctly?

4. Does the slave or master cylinder leak?

mvtck

on some after market clutch and fylwheels you need to ajust the rod on the clutch master cyl.

5psi_eg6

I got the same problem on my ITR. Changed the slave, changed the master, bled a couple of times and it still won't go in gear.

gettin it

You need to adjust the clutch pedal. Under the dash on the pedal up top. Not sure whats it called, but i had the same problem awhile back and did that.

TheAsian

Agreed. I'm about 90% sure all you need to do is a clutch pedal adjustment, acutally just had a 01 ITR in here with the same problem kid did the clutch himself and clutch needed adjustment.

harker

ok well i took the tranny off again checked every thing and re torqued the the pressure plate to 19ft lbs still the same problem.. can anyone walk me threw the whole adjusting the peddel .. im sorry for being a pain in the *** but during taking the tranny off the second time my starter went and now im about to cry.... lol i just want to beat my Ls im going into withdrall

Honda Bull

Well. I only ever adjust mine in order to have the clutch engage where I want it through the range of motion of the pedal.

Off the top of my head, take a gander under the dash where the clutch pedal is. The master cylinder rod will branch between the firewall and the pedal, where it is connected via a fork, cylindrical pin through the fork, and cotter pin to keep the pin stationary. The should be a 12mm nut between the fork and the actual rod that is threaded and can spin. Loosen the 12mm nut and spin the rod whichever way you may need it to go. Re-tighten the nut and depress the clutch to see how it feels to determine if more adjustment is needed.

In making this change, you may also need to adjust where the pedal stop is located as well. Which is a sensor you'll see up there that lies between the steering wheel and clutch pedal.

Evs-One

Like above, lengthen the clutch master cylinder push rod...only do it 2-3 turns max, and re-test.

harker

i tried... i dont know if im doing somethin wrong or what. i turned it to the right 2-3 times (is that what i should have done?) . its just dont feel right. it feels like a stock beat clutch. There is little to no pressure. Every other stage two clutch i felt was hard to push down . i bled it till i saw nothing but a solid stream of fluid. the peddle feels about the same as the old clutch. Im thinking that it had enough pressure to push the old clutch in but not enough pressure to press in the stage two.. i dont know what elce to do

harker

bump? anyone else had this problem? something

Teg_Spanker

Slave and or master cylinder don't have enough power to engage the new parts

ion_four

I was just having the same problem (replaced Clutch/PP/Flywheel and it wouldn't go into gear.) I'm also having some trans issues, but I think that's unrelated...

I replaced the slave and master and still nothing. I think your best bet is the adjustment, as mentioned. You should be turning the rod so that the resistance increases. If the resistance decreases, you're turning it the wrong way.

I think you need to turn it as if you were loosening it to make it longer...

caiboR

One time I had the flywheel bolts loosen to where it stuck out to blocked the clutch from engaging with the flywheel. So since you taken off the tranny again try installing the whole clutch again.

caiboR

EM1 00 civic

Vince Cervantes

94 Acura Integra Ls Manual transmission. Car was not shifting prior to replacing the clutch. I replaced my clutch slave and the Master Clutch Cylinder.
After replacing my clutch flywheel pressure plate throw out bearing input bearing all 3 seals for is place inside of throw out bearing properly and the car still does t want to go in to any gears while the car is on. If the vehicle is off it will slide in to any gear.
As soon as I turn it on it won’t go in to any gear.
if the car is off I place it in to 1st gear it struggles to turn off like ge battery is dead but when it’s in neutral it turns on in a heart beat and turns on properly. However if I turn it on in first gear I can shift by accelerating and not pressing the clutch down.
FYI the clutch is placed in the proper way I double checked my work and I removed my clutch and reinstalled it as I still double checked everything as it went back in.