topp_dawg_g

iTrader: (1)

i'm not sure if this crank pulley is still good to use. if it's not, can i bring it to a shop and have it balance or just get a use/new one? this is for a h22a1. can any other pulleys fit?

what do you guys think about these on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jet-C...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-01...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-01...Q5fAccessories

prion

I would go with the Dorman if you arent set to get an OEM. I have a Dorman crank pulley, and while it is not quite as nice as the OEM, it is solid. You HAVE to have a harmonic balancer on whatever pulley you decide to get. It is the strip of rubber between the inner portion and the outer, and without it your bearings will be worn quickly. Dorman has it, OEM has it, but those underdrive lightweight pulleys do not.

dagle

iTrader: (1)

why can't you re-use that pulley? the chips aren't at risk of cutting into the belt, i would just throw that one on and see if it works.

vinuneuro

This pulley is well past done. A used pulley is cheap enough and easy enough to find on ht that it's not worth your crank and bearings.

topp_dawg_g

iTrader: (1)

this one might be off balance which could have caused my bearings to spun. i'll update w/ pics.

topp_dawg_g

iTrader: (1)

i got an issue here. the mains on the block and caps have some wear on it. some are okay and some are pretty deep. i don't think i can just put new bearings in. how will a shop fix this? any suggestions on what i should do?:

92hondalude

maybe align hone. benson supplys this service

topp_dawg_g

iTrader: (1)

will i have to bare out my block for this or any service?

topp_dawg_g

iTrader: (1)

anyone know the torque specs for the arp mains and studs? i forgot.

nuezdaman44

it is in that helms... good stuff tho I'm about to get to this part of my rebuild. I'm definitely expecting to see something similar, so let me know what you end up doing...

How do the inside of your cylinders look BTW? i duno if you saw my post but at least one of my cylinders is gonna need some honing, its got scratches all the way of the sides

gstrudler

you should be able to find this on ARP's site. it is not the same as the helm specs, and I believe the specs change each time you use them (1st torque, 2nd torque, etc).

SiREJ8

did you align hone the engine after installing the main studs? maybe that caused the problem?

topp_dawg_g

iTrader: (1)

i'd never align hone the block before. i went to two different machine shop and they can't do it because their drilling thing is too big (V8's i'm guessing). my cylinder walls are still good. now i still need oil squirters and crank pulley (pending) and new custom cometic headgasket. i'm thinking that i might need a thicker head gasket if the crank moves up after the align honing. i got the torque specs from the tech support in case anyone needs it:

The studs will go into the block hand tight only. For the main studs,
follow the manufacturers torque sequence and tighten the nut in three
equal steps to 85 ft. lbs. if using 30 wt. oil as thread lubricant. Note
that if the block has been align honed using these fasteners it is
recommended to use the same torque spec and lubricant that was used when
it was honed.
For the head studs they will also thread into the block hand tight
only. Follow the manufacturers torque sequence and tighten the nuts in
three equal steps to 120 ft. lbs. if using 30 wt. oil as thread
lubricant. Because the head gasket can compress after the engine has
ran, it is recommended to re-check the torque after an initial heat
cycle.

topp_dawg_g

iTrader: (1)

i'm planning to reuse my old piston rings which are less than 1000 miles. do i still need to repeat the break in process? cometic headgaskets don't required retorqing head studs but arp studs do. what should i do?

vinuneuro

New rings are a must.

Call ARP and ask what the studs need to be torqued to for reuse.

topp_dawg_g

iTrader: (1)

i sent my block out to laskey and they said that it's going to cost around $600-$700 plus new main caps because they well to make new tangs. the crank is going to move up .015-.020 so i will have to get a thicker headgasket and file the dowel pins on the oil pump main seal. they said if i provide a new block, they can sleeve it for $900.
i was wondering if there's shop out there that can weld some material on the damage then align hone it. what do you guys think is my best option now?

vinuneuro

Dude, that sounds like such a pita. Just find another bare block, there's tons of the floating around.

NirVTEC

why even bother? Saving $50-100 now may cost 10-20X that in the future.

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

I agree. The only way to save that block would be to do what I did and have the mains bored out for a larger crank but thats ALOT of work and I know from experience. Moving the crank up will throw everything out of whack... oil pump, rear main seal, clutch/flywheel wont be aligned properly with the tranny etc.. your best bet is to start from scratch.