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My "Check Engine" light came on the other day, shortly after filling up. I had remembered about tightening the gas cap and so I made sure that it was on with 3 clicks. A friend has an ODB hand-held device, which he lent me. I got a reading of P1457 and have been trying to find out if I could fix this myself. From what I can tell, it appears to be the Canister Vent Valve and not the gas cap itself. I am somewhat handy around cars (somewhat) and would like to fix it myself, but I'm not sure what it involves. If all else fails I could go to the dealership. Any help & guidance would be greatly appreciated. My car is a 2001 Honda Odyssey with about 85,000 miles on it, it has been very good to me and I'd like to keep it a bit longer.
it may either be a canister vent shut valve or the evap bypass solenoid valve. i attached a s/b 03-001 it talks about the bypass solenoid. i would test and repalce that first.
Many thanks for that service bulletin. It mentions 2 parts to replace. The first is the EVAP bypass solenoid valve, which you mentioned. The second is the ECM/PCM. Could you tell me what that part is?
Assuming I can get these parts, which I believe I can, would you say that this is something that I could install myself?
The ECM/PCM is the computer and it is $850, hopefully that is OK, the other part is $93 and about that much to have it installed. What I'm trying to determine now is HOW to locate & change the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. If it doesn't look too bad, I will give it a try myself. Any advise on that would be greatly appreciated.
the bypass solenoid valve is under the car i wanna say under the passengers seat area. and the pcm is located in the car behind the center of the dash my the firewall. i will try to post pic for you later 2night.
The canister vent shut valve or the EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve could be the problem, as the culprits easily get corroded in geographic locations that use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Honda had to redesign the parts to address this problem.
TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.
If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).
The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.
But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.
I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.
Thanks. I went to my local dealer and the part is $91 + tax, and then at least an hour labor, if not more. So I was looking at about a $200 bill. I purchased the part online, and got it the other day, for $75. I got a manual out of the library, and have an pretty good idea where it's located & how to change it. I have the use of a friends large garage to work in and so this weekend I plan to bring my ramps & tools, most important is WD-40. If you have any additional documents that could assist me in changing it, I would greatly appreciate if you would e-mail them to me. My e-mail address is: MarvKirsch@gmail.com
it's been a week now and i just found thins thread. i have the same problem and wanted to know if that fixed your problem and how it was replacing it thanks
Last Saturday, 2/7, I replaced the part. It went well, but it took me quite a few hours. The bolts covering the canister came off easily, but the screws on the solenoid was another story.
There is a cover over the solenoid, which I was able to unbolt, that allowed me to get a little leverage on the screws. The screwdriver was useless, but thankfully I had a vise grip, which did the trick. One of the screws was really rusted and I didn't think it was gonna come off in one piece.
My suggestions is to spray the bolts & screws with WD-40 and be very patient, VERY PATIENT.
I had the front of the van up on ramps, but it was still quite cramped because the location of the part is a bit further back. I plan on checking the ODB codes next Tuesday, but so far the light is off. I did reset everything when I was done.
So the part was $75, if I went back to Honda I was looking at $200 at least, so I saved some money.
As an aside, I thought I burned out the motor for the sliding door. I pull on it too much when it got frozen. That part is $500 plus at least $500 labor. Turns out I found a trick to pull the #13 fuse (clock fuse), manually open & close the doors which then acts as a reset. To my dis-belief, IT WORKED, and cost me nothing.
If you need anymore details, please feel free to e-mail me at MarvKirsch@gmail.com
As an aside, I thought I burned out the motor for the sliding door. I pull on it too much when it got frozen. That part is $500 plus at least $500 labor. Turns out I found a trick to pull the #13 fuse (clock fuse), manually open & close the doors which then acts as a reset. To my dis-belief, IT WORKED, and cost me nothing.
Marv
That's not top secret or anything... All you had to do was ask.
I didn't think to ask on the internet, I just figured that I burnt it out. A friend here at work looked it up and found the procedure. I wonder if this fix is in later manuals? Looking at mine, it just said go back to the dealer.
My daughter decided to drive up on an island with a tree stump at the top. I replaced the canister assembly because it was hanging down. I also replaced the canister vent shut valve, fuel tubing to the canister, the valve set solenoid aka bypass solenoid and the gas cap. I checked the hosing from the purge solenoid to the canister hosing with a vacuum pump, no problems.
I checked the voltage to the cable harness going to the purge control solenoid and it's getting nearly 12 volts. Does anyone know what the voltage should be for the harnesses going to the canister, valve set and two-way valve? I have the key turned to on (II) and the canister harness shows .028 volts, the two-way valve shows 0 volts and the valve set solenoid (bypass solenoid) shows .120 volts. Am I looking at an electrical problem?
Wouldn't the problems with the electrical cables be a different error code? How do I test to see there's a leak with the 2-way valve without a smoke machine? I only have a vacuum pump.
I hope someone can help. I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey cil has been on since I got the van this past August. I finally got a code, P1457. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but I want to make sure I am fixing the correct issue so I can pass inspection (tags expired already). I'm going to try to attach a picture of what I think is the correct spot. I don't have jacks or ramps so I can't get under all the way. Is this it? Under the very rusted spot.
I'm also needing help finding the part online, to find the best deal.
01-09-2009, 01:48 PM
ODB code P1457
Re: ODB code P1457
