pos94accord

symptoms are trouble starting, sometimes no fire, sometimes fires then dies, and sometimes starts.
Also when you get to 3000 rpms it is like it is hitting a rev limiter.
as said in the title of thread, did the wire in the two plug connector and have code 4 (crank position sensor) and code 12 (egr)
Any ideas where I should start?

Turbowa

EGR code I would start by cleaning out the ports in the intake manifold. The CPS is located in the dist. I would pull the dist. cap off and make sure theres no oil in there. If there is clean it out and then clear the check engine light after doing these 2 this. If the CPS code come back you may need a new dist. assy.

GhostAccord

^x2

Unfortunately the CKP sensor in the 94 Accords is in the distributor and it is not a replaceable part on it's own. In order to fix it you must replace the distributor. As Turowa mentioned there could be oil or water/oxidation inside the distributor housing. If there is I would suggest cleaning it out thoroughly and replace the gaskets. You should also check all of the wires coming out of the distributor all the way back to the ECU for wear, corrosion or any other type of poor contact situation. Clean & repair the wires if necessary.

pos94accord

I really appreciate the help! I will try this all out tomorrow, and hopefully with a little elbow greese this thing will be running again.

Duane_in_Japan

I am not 100% sure on your model but the computer uses the MAP sensor to sense EGR activation, or better yet EGR Flow. If the computer does not see a vacuum change via the MAP sensor when the EGR system is commanded on then a code will be set for Low EGR Flow. Normally this points to clogged EGR passages on a Honda, famous pattern failure item.

The other issue will need a distributor, only go OEM new or used or reman.

pos94accord

Well two months later, I am still having problems. The egr valve is fixed, pretty simple, man I don't know how it worked that long. But anyway the dist is brand new, and the wires seem to be fine so I don't know what to do now, any ideas?

Duane_in_Japan

The distributor is brand new OEM??? Did you clean out the EGR Passages completely, not only change the EGR Valve?

pos94accord

Well, here is an update/another dilema, I replace the dizzy and cap, and cleaned the egr. The egr code is gone and now I just have the code for crank pos sensor and top dead center sensor. (that was before I replaced the dizz) Put the new dizz on last night and she ran fine, 10 mile test drive. Then drove to work this morning (15 mile trip) 5 miles from work she sputtered, made the engine go below 3500 rmps and popped the code for crank position sensor again. Any ideas on what my course of action should be?

GhostAccord

Was it an OEM brand new dizzy ($$$) or a re manufactured "brand new" dizzy?

Test the CKP circuit. If it doesn't come up to spec than it's a faulty distributor. It is possible that you may have purchased a faulty Dizzy, I've seen that happen before with remans.

If you have checked the dizzy and your wiring and they both checked out good. The last thing to look at would be your ECU. Know anyone in your area with an ECU you could swap?

pos94accord

no, i don't know anyone in the area to swap an ecu with, but I am thinking that I will look at some of the yards around the area and try to pick one up.
the dizz that I bought was a remanufactured one made by cardone. Don't know if it is OEM, I am guessing it is not I would think that otherwise they would have specified that when I got it.
Also, how do I test the CKP curcuit? If you could tell me I would really appreciate it.

GhostAccord

Where it says to connect the test harness, forget about that, all you need to do is disconnect the B connector from the ECU and stick your multimeter probes into the female side of the corresponding pin no.

Are you familiar with the OBD1 Accord ECU pinout? Do you know how to locate the wires that correspond to pins B11, B12, B13, B14, B15 & B16? If you go by the diagram showing the pin locations on the test harness. Those are the pin locations as if you were looking at the wire side of the connector.

Daivon Lockhart

Hey current Honda tech here. I have 94 accord ex sedan with f23A1 swap. Feel like I’ve been through it all but it sounds like your ignition timing is off. I would use a timing light to make sure your degrees are correct 15-/+ 2 degrees.

99stockcivic

Daivon, since you are new, just a kindly reminder, check the dates of the messages. You just replied to a 12 year old thread. Probably fixed it or trashed it by now

GhostAccord

Just out of curiosity, if he checked it with a light and his timing was off, how would he correct it?