Cost to fix drive axel?
11-03-2008, 11:48 AM
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Re: Cost to fix drive axel? (civicSF98)
I paid $150 installed for axle replacement. However, if you have tools and a bit of knowledge, you can buy an axle for $70 or so from Advance Auto or similar, and install it yourself. It just slides into the hub (which you'll have to just disconnect a ball joint thread w/ cotter pin to get out) with a 32 mm nut torqued to 130 ft/lb. (have a breaker bar)
Then just pops into the transmission, and you drive again. Drive to Advance and give 'em your core. But, you could pay the extra in shop fees if you're just simply unwilling or unable for whatever reason. I think $150 should be the max, may just want to avoid chain shops for best prices.
Then just pops into the transmission, and you drive again. Drive to Advance and give 'em your core. But, you could pay the extra in shop fees if you're just simply unwilling or unable for whatever reason. I think $150 should be the max, may just want to avoid chain shops for best prices.
11-03-2008, 11:59 AM
#3
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Re: Cost to fix drive axel? (civicSF98)
It's going to vary greatly between different shops.
1. Go buy a brand new, not rebuilt CV axle from O'Reilly Auto Parts - they're like $60.00 and do not charge for a core exchange. This will save you from whatever shop doing the work's parts mark up. They're not evil - it's business. Everyone marks parts up.
2. Shop rates can be between $59.00-$159.00 for labor, honestly.
I'm sure you'll get a bunch of "do it yourself!" replies, but before I link you my axle replacement how-to I'll at least ask if you have tools, a jack, jackastands, and the patience. Do you?
Not everyone has the time, tools, or desire to do self repairs. I understand that. If I didn't work at a shop it'd be more of a PITA to change my axle on the ground with only hand tools...
...but I have had to change my own broken axle on the side of the road!
1. Go buy a brand new, not rebuilt CV axle from O'Reilly Auto Parts - they're like $60.00 and do not charge for a core exchange. This will save you from whatever shop doing the work's parts mark up. They're not evil - it's business. Everyone marks parts up.
2. Shop rates can be between $59.00-$159.00 for labor, honestly.
I'm sure you'll get a bunch of "do it yourself!" replies, but before I link you my axle replacement how-to I'll at least ask if you have tools, a jack, jackastands, and the patience. Do you?
Not everyone has the time, tools, or desire to do self repairs. I understand that. If I didn't work at a shop it'd be more of a PITA to change my axle on the ground with only hand tools...
...but I have had to change my own broken axle on the side of the road!
11-03-2008, 12:37 PM
#6
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Re: Cost to fix drive axel? (808Army)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 808Army »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn that bad place snap axle. there pice still suck in there how get it out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Had to remove the driver's side CV axle and then remove the intermediate shaft from the block, then tapped on the broken piece from the other side/left side of the diff with a long 3/8ths extension.
To do that I just had the car towed to my shop as my friend who brought me the tools roadside didn't account for the intermediate shaft removal. I could have done it on the shoulder of the road though, had I had the tools.
Had to remove the driver's side CV axle and then remove the intermediate shaft from the block, then tapped on the broken piece from the other side/left side of the diff with a long 3/8ths extension.
To do that I just had the car towed to my shop as my friend who brought me the tools roadside didn't account for the intermediate shaft removal. I could have done it on the shoulder of the road though, had I had the tools.
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11-03-2008, 02:10 PM
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Re: (nbcivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nbcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cv axle at dealership is like 300$ installed</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you know the exact part I need?
Do you know the exact part I need?
11-03-2008, 02:35 PM
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Re: (civicSF98)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicSF98 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do you know the exact part I need?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no i'm just quoting you what they quoted me lol, but they usually just change the whole axle. For me that was for passenger side.
Do you know the exact part I need?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no i'm just quoting you what they quoted me lol, but they usually just change the whole axle. For me that was for passenger side.
11-04-2008, 04:22 AM
#11
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Re: (civicSF98)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicSF98 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know the exact part I need?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seriously go to O'Reilly Auto Parts and tell them exactly what kind of car you have, and be prepared to tell them:
1. Year/make model of car
2. Does it have ABS?
3. Which side - say "driver" side or "passenger" side to avoid any left/right confusion as that can change with perspective.
4. Sometimes they'll ask "is this a 1.5L, or 1.6L?" referring to the engine.
5. Automatic or manual transmission?
Ask them for the brand new one, even if it means they have to order it in and get it later that day or tomorrow. Remans are rebuilt and they charge you a core charge until you turn in the old axle - not worth the trouble.
The dealership charges a ton because their labor rates are higher than any independant shop, and they are charging a premium for using the genuine Honda axle. The genuine Honda axle is also a reman axle, not brand new, but they are good axles. In most cases I say go OE Genuine parts, but axles are the exception.
BTW:
The O'Reilly axles and most any parts store axles will give you a lifetime warranty on the part itself, so that if it ever goes bad they'll give you another for free each time. It can even be as minor as a torn CV boot that is slinging grease without even clicking or vibrating.
Honda's warranty is three years, which is still nice.
Seriously go to O'Reilly Auto Parts and tell them exactly what kind of car you have, and be prepared to tell them:
1. Year/make model of car
2. Does it have ABS?
3. Which side - say "driver" side or "passenger" side to avoid any left/right confusion as that can change with perspective.
4. Sometimes they'll ask "is this a 1.5L, or 1.6L?" referring to the engine.
5. Automatic or manual transmission?
Ask them for the brand new one, even if it means they have to order it in and get it later that day or tomorrow. Remans are rebuilt and they charge you a core charge until you turn in the old axle - not worth the trouble.
The dealership charges a ton because their labor rates are higher than any independant shop, and they are charging a premium for using the genuine Honda axle. The genuine Honda axle is also a reman axle, not brand new, but they are good axles. In most cases I say go OE Genuine parts, but axles are the exception.
BTW:
The O'Reilly axles and most any parts store axles will give you a lifetime warranty on the part itself, so that if it ever goes bad they'll give you another for free each time. It can even be as minor as a torn CV boot that is slinging grease without even clicking or vibrating.
Honda's warranty is three years, which is still nice.
11-07-2008, 12:56 PM
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Re: (EkFG)
My electric impact failed to take it off due to the way it applies torque (could just be a ghetto electric thing though). But my 1 ft breaker did just fine in a matter of moments. You're going to need an expendable flathead screwdriver to undo the bend in the axle nut, and maybe a hammer. (A chisel is the proper tool in this case.)
11-07-2008, 02:01 PM
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Re: (Allurian)
Originally Posted by Allurian
Is an impact gun required for the axle nut or will a breaker bar do the job in most cases? Sorry for hijacking
< mine does anyay if its some harbor freight, or craftsman cheap *** one, don't expec the gun to pull that off.
11-07-2008, 02:09 PM
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Re: (i drive a honda)
Originally Posted by i drive a honda
yup, impact pops that nut right off. each time.
< mine does anyay if its some harbor freight, or craftsman cheap *** one, don't expec the gun to pull that off.
< mine does anyay if its some harbor freight, or craftsman cheap *** one, don't expec the gun to pull that off.
11-07-2008, 02:10 PM
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Re: (i drive a honda)
I personally have a cheapy craftsman one I gave like 50 bucks new for that does them no problem. Only thing it hasn't taken off for me was a crankshaft bolt.
11-07-2008, 02:39 PM
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Re: Cost to fix drive axel? (B18C5-EH2)
Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2
I was going to add to your list if the car has ABS too, but most new axles will just come with the tone ring on there already. For a new axle we charge $189.95 for everything.
11-07-2008, 02:52 PM
#20
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OP
Take the car to the newest shop and have it done.
figure $150.-200. depending on which level axle you want to pay for.
Most of us have learned to buy the $130.00 axle. The cheap lifetime replacements are just that, cheap. A number of us have had to install 3-4 axles before we got a good one.
You have no tools. Pay the man.
My first axle took hours to replace. It's not as easy as everyone say's the first time. Trust me.
The last 10 or so I've done in 15 - 20 minutes.
Take the car to the newest shop and have it done.
figure $150.-200. depending on which level axle you want to pay for.
Most of us have learned to buy the $130.00 axle. The cheap lifetime replacements are just that, cheap. A number of us have had to install 3-4 axles before we got a good one.
You have no tools. Pay the man.
My first axle took hours to replace. It's not as easy as everyone say's the first time. Trust me.
The last 10 or so I've done in 15 - 20 minutes.
11-07-2008, 02:54 PM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (civicSF98)
Originally Posted by civicSF98
Do you know the exact part I need?
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...FT+(1)
11-08-2008, 04:49 AM
#24
Former Moderator
Re: Cost to fix drive axel? (hatchling37)
Originally Posted by hatchling37
How pissed were you when you got to this point and realized you had to pull the fork, too?
By the way I do not even remove the fork from the shock - I take out the through bolt that secures the fork to the LCA, and just push the shock and fork to the front side of the LCA and the axles slides right out. As seen here:
I only had one jack brought to me so I was more or less taking a chance and hoping that the axle wasn't broken off in the diff, but as you can see that didn't work out too well.
...so I had it towed to my shop:
Once at the shop it took me all of 20 minutes to pull both axles, remove the intermediate shaft, and tap the broken piece off from the left side of the diff, then install two new axles.
I have replaced too many axles in my lifetime working at a shop, and half of them have probably been from my own cars. I used to run a puck style clutch and when it wasn't stripping teeth off of my ITR tranny's final drive/ring and pinion sets (this happend three different times) it was breaking axles. I've probably replaced 10 axles at the dragstrip for other people too using only hand tools.
I'm actually the guy who did a complete write-up for H-Ters as seen here - the pics were blurry for up close shots because back then I didn't have a camera with macro:
Originally Posted by Me from 2003
Ever hear a clicking noise when you turn?
Ever feel a vibration only when you're acclerating?
Chances are that you need a new axle. The first thing you'd need to do before you go pulling an axle out of your car is figure out which axle is bad if both aren't. Symtoms of a bad axel would be:
1. Torn boot with grease slinging out.
2. One side or the other vibrating upon hitting the gas. This indicates a broken or worn inner joint.
So after you figure out which one (or both) needs replacing you can begin.
I've taken some pics of various tools that you will need in order to swap an axle. I work at a shop so air was available to me, but for you at home there might not be some tools pictured here that you will need - I'll get to that in a minute.
32mm socket
19mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench or additional socket
1/2'' driver for big sockets
3/8'' driver for drain plug/sockets
hammer
dykes
prybar
*big-*** breaker/cheater bar for the 1/2'' driver to break the axle nut loose and tighten it back down*
*Optional*
Depending on tranny you might have to drain and fill the tranny. I make this a common practice every time I swap an axle and I recommend that you do too. In my tutorial I will detail how to drain and fill the tranny. If doing so add these things:
3 qts of Genuine Honda MTF (you won't use all 3 - B-Series takes like 2.5 qts.)
Long funnel
crush washer for drian plug (get it from Honda - same one as your engine oil drain plug)
10mm socket with LONG extention
driver for 10mm socket/extension
Here we see the various tools laid out. Missing from the pic is the big-*** breaker car for you at home that will need it for the 32mm axle nut. Also missing are the funnel and 10mm socket.extention/driver combo for the drain/fill procedure. I has air tools available so I used them.
Close-up of cotter pin (you'll only need one) and drain plug washer
Drivers and 17mm end wrench:
32mm, 19mm, and 17mm sockets:
And if you're lucky and have tools a 1/2'' impact will be very helpful:
Okay so let's get started.
1. Take the 19mm socket and break your wheel lugs loose. they will be hard as hell to break loose if you've already got the car in the air.
*For those without an impact*
It has been brought to my attention that if you are using a 32mm socket with a 1/2'' driver and a big-*** breaker bat you might want to break the 32mm axle end nut loose while the car is still on the ground. Hopefully you can access the nut with the wheel still on, because if not you'll have to get someone to sit in the car and hold the brakes on with the engine on in hopes that the wheel won't turn while you try to break the 32mm nut loose.
2. Jack up the car and secure it on a STABLE set of jackstands. I used a lift so sorry, no pics.
3. Locate the drain plug and use a 3/8'' driver with no socket and remive the drain plug:
Replace the drain plug washer and tighten the drain plug back after draining is complete. I didn't do this until later on because I waited to drain the tranny until right before prying out the axle, but I recommend doing this first at home and then tightening the plug back until you feel/hear the washer crush. This insures no leakage during work and also so that you remember to drain and tighthen the plug up before you start the real work.
4. Remove the wheel and look for the 32mm axle end nut. Yeah the pic sucks.
5. Remove the axle nut with the 32mm socket. At home you will need a breaker bar or cheater bar to get much-needed leverage to break this bastatrd loose. I used an impact.
6. Now find the cotter pin lovated on the 17mm castle nut below the lower balljoint and remove it by unfolding it with your dykes:
7. Now take the 17mm socket and remove the 17mm castle nut from the lower balljoint. Yes this pic sucks too.
8. Now take your hammer and beat on the lower control arm where the hammer head is in this pic. This will break the balljoint loose. The pics get better sometime.
9. Now locate the through bolt that holds the lower strut "fork" to the lower control arm:
10. Using a 17mm socket on one side and either a 17mm wrench or another socket to hold the other side, remove the through bolt .
11. Now take your hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the end of the axle to get it free from the spindle:
12. Now pull the lower strut fork to the side and it should all look like this:
13. Now you're ready to pry the axle out. Take the prybar and position like so in the pic and pry. You might want to secure the spindle out of the way so it doesn't hold the axle in:
14. Compare your new axle to the one you pulled out and make sure the new axle is correct. The old axle might not "look" bad, but in this case here the shaft is actually broken in half inside the outer boot.
15. Now you're ready to put the new one in. Simply reverse the removal procedure. First get the spindle out of the way and pop the axle back into the inner joint. It might take a bit of pushing, but it will pop in. Make SURE that the inner joint is all the way in and butted up against the tranny casing fully.
16. Here's where steps can be swapped around, but I did mine in this order. Put the lower balljoint back into the lower control arm and slide the outer splines back into the spindle - finger tighten the 32mm axle nut on so the axle doesn't pop back out while you do other work.
17. Now you're ready to line up the lower strut fork with the lower control arm to put the through bolt in. It helps to tighten the lower balljoint 17mm castlenut first. Replace the cotter pin too! VERY IMPORTANT!!! Remember to tighten the 17mm castlenut in a manner so that you can slide the new cotter pin in.
18. Push up on the lower control arm and slide the through bolt in plave and put the 17mm nut on the end:
19. Using two 17mm sockets or whatever combo you choose, tighten the through bolt:
20. Now tighten the 32mm axle end nut. If you have no air tools then use the breaker bar and tighten it up pretty snug. STAKE THE NUT DOWN! Use the hammer and something flat to make an indention in the nut like pictured:
So the new axle is in. Time to fill the tranny. There's a few schools of thought on how to fill the tranny, but this methid here is by far the least messy and to me the easiest.
*Optional* Find the fill plug. It is seen here right next to the inner joint of the axle. It has a crush washer so if you loose it your'e screwed. Honda doesn't usually sotck this one. I chose not to loosen my fill plug because I know my tranny takse 2.5 qts., but the way you fill it is to fill until fluid dribbles from the fill hole so this is optional if it makes you feel better.
Here's where the trick comes in that will save you headahces. Usually you have to ghetto-rig a funnel and tube to fill the tranny in the fill hole which really sucks. My method is really easy.
1. Remove the vent cap found near the front/top of your tranny:
2. Find the Speed sensor located on the topside of the very back of your tranny:
3. Take the 10mm on a big-*** extension and remove the bolt (it's the orangish one in my pic - yours probably won't be oragnish):
4. Now see that big-*** hole left after you move the speed sensor out of the way? Use the funnel and fill through that hole! By the way, no need to unplug the speed sensor - just move it out of the way.
5. Fill up with specified amount or until fluid dribbles from the fill hole below.
6. Put the speed sensor back in, tighten up the fill plug (if you loosened it).
7. Replace the vent cap and you're done!
Now put your wheel back on, torque the lugs to spec with a torque wrench and take your car for a test drive!
Ever feel a vibration only when you're acclerating?
Chances are that you need a new axle. The first thing you'd need to do before you go pulling an axle out of your car is figure out which axle is bad if both aren't. Symtoms of a bad axel would be:
1. Torn boot with grease slinging out.
2. One side or the other vibrating upon hitting the gas. This indicates a broken or worn inner joint.
So after you figure out which one (or both) needs replacing you can begin.
I've taken some pics of various tools that you will need in order to swap an axle. I work at a shop so air was available to me, but for you at home there might not be some tools pictured here that you will need - I'll get to that in a minute.
32mm socket
19mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench or additional socket
1/2'' driver for big sockets
3/8'' driver for drain plug/sockets
hammer
dykes
prybar
*big-*** breaker/cheater bar for the 1/2'' driver to break the axle nut loose and tighten it back down*
*Optional*
Depending on tranny you might have to drain and fill the tranny. I make this a common practice every time I swap an axle and I recommend that you do too. In my tutorial I will detail how to drain and fill the tranny. If doing so add these things:
3 qts of Genuine Honda MTF (you won't use all 3 - B-Series takes like 2.5 qts.)
Long funnel
crush washer for drian plug (get it from Honda - same one as your engine oil drain plug)
10mm socket with LONG extention
driver for 10mm socket/extension
Here we see the various tools laid out. Missing from the pic is the big-*** breaker car for you at home that will need it for the 32mm axle nut. Also missing are the funnel and 10mm socket.extention/driver combo for the drain/fill procedure. I has air tools available so I used them.
Close-up of cotter pin (you'll only need one) and drain plug washer
Drivers and 17mm end wrench:
32mm, 19mm, and 17mm sockets:
And if you're lucky and have tools a 1/2'' impact will be very helpful:
Okay so let's get started.
1. Take the 19mm socket and break your wheel lugs loose. they will be hard as hell to break loose if you've already got the car in the air.
*For those without an impact*
It has been brought to my attention that if you are using a 32mm socket with a 1/2'' driver and a big-*** breaker bat you might want to break the 32mm axle end nut loose while the car is still on the ground. Hopefully you can access the nut with the wheel still on, because if not you'll have to get someone to sit in the car and hold the brakes on with the engine on in hopes that the wheel won't turn while you try to break the 32mm nut loose.
2. Jack up the car and secure it on a STABLE set of jackstands. I used a lift so sorry, no pics.
3. Locate the drain plug and use a 3/8'' driver with no socket and remive the drain plug:
Replace the drain plug washer and tighten the drain plug back after draining is complete. I didn't do this until later on because I waited to drain the tranny until right before prying out the axle, but I recommend doing this first at home and then tightening the plug back until you feel/hear the washer crush. This insures no leakage during work and also so that you remember to drain and tighthen the plug up before you start the real work.
4. Remove the wheel and look for the 32mm axle end nut. Yeah the pic sucks.
5. Remove the axle nut with the 32mm socket. At home you will need a breaker bar or cheater bar to get much-needed leverage to break this bastatrd loose. I used an impact.
6. Now find the cotter pin lovated on the 17mm castle nut below the lower balljoint and remove it by unfolding it with your dykes:
7. Now take the 17mm socket and remove the 17mm castle nut from the lower balljoint. Yes this pic sucks too.
8. Now take your hammer and beat on the lower control arm where the hammer head is in this pic. This will break the balljoint loose. The pics get better sometime.
9. Now locate the through bolt that holds the lower strut "fork" to the lower control arm:
10. Using a 17mm socket on one side and either a 17mm wrench or another socket to hold the other side, remove the through bolt .
11. Now take your hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the end of the axle to get it free from the spindle:
12. Now pull the lower strut fork to the side and it should all look like this:
13. Now you're ready to pry the axle out. Take the prybar and position like so in the pic and pry. You might want to secure the spindle out of the way so it doesn't hold the axle in:
14. Compare your new axle to the one you pulled out and make sure the new axle is correct. The old axle might not "look" bad, but in this case here the shaft is actually broken in half inside the outer boot.
15. Now you're ready to put the new one in. Simply reverse the removal procedure. First get the spindle out of the way and pop the axle back into the inner joint. It might take a bit of pushing, but it will pop in. Make SURE that the inner joint is all the way in and butted up against the tranny casing fully.
16. Here's where steps can be swapped around, but I did mine in this order. Put the lower balljoint back into the lower control arm and slide the outer splines back into the spindle - finger tighten the 32mm axle nut on so the axle doesn't pop back out while you do other work.
17. Now you're ready to line up the lower strut fork with the lower control arm to put the through bolt in. It helps to tighten the lower balljoint 17mm castlenut first. Replace the cotter pin too! VERY IMPORTANT!!! Remember to tighten the 17mm castlenut in a manner so that you can slide the new cotter pin in.
18. Push up on the lower control arm and slide the through bolt in plave and put the 17mm nut on the end:
19. Using two 17mm sockets or whatever combo you choose, tighten the through bolt:
20. Now tighten the 32mm axle end nut. If you have no air tools then use the breaker bar and tighten it up pretty snug. STAKE THE NUT DOWN! Use the hammer and something flat to make an indention in the nut like pictured:
So the new axle is in. Time to fill the tranny. There's a few schools of thought on how to fill the tranny, but this methid here is by far the least messy and to me the easiest.
*Optional* Find the fill plug. It is seen here right next to the inner joint of the axle. It has a crush washer so if you loose it your'e screwed. Honda doesn't usually sotck this one. I chose not to loosen my fill plug because I know my tranny takse 2.5 qts., but the way you fill it is to fill until fluid dribbles from the fill hole so this is optional if it makes you feel better.
Here's where the trick comes in that will save you headahces. Usually you have to ghetto-rig a funnel and tube to fill the tranny in the fill hole which really sucks. My method is really easy.
1. Remove the vent cap found near the front/top of your tranny:
2. Find the Speed sensor located on the topside of the very back of your tranny:
3. Take the 10mm on a big-*** extension and remove the bolt (it's the orangish one in my pic - yours probably won't be oragnish):
4. Now see that big-*** hole left after you move the speed sensor out of the way? Use the funnel and fill through that hole! By the way, no need to unplug the speed sensor - just move it out of the way.
5. Fill up with specified amount or until fluid dribbles from the fill hole below.
6. Put the speed sensor back in, tighten up the fill plug (if you loosened it).
7. Replace the vent cap and you're done!
Now put your wheel back on, torque the lugs to spec with a torque wrench and take your car for a test drive!
Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 8:57 AM 11/8/2008
Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 9:00 AM 11/8/2008
11-08-2008, 06:05 AM
#25
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Re: Cost to fix drive axel? (B18C5-EH2)
Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2
By the way I do not even remove the fork from the shock - I take out the through bolt that secures the fork to the LCA, and just push the shock and fork to the front side of the LCA and the axles slides right out. As seen here:
Nice write-up btw. 
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