IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Tools used:
1.) Snap ring pliers
2.) Drivers or impact sockets
3.) 1/2" drive Impact gun
4.) 1/2" drive 19mm impact socket
5.) 3/8" drive Impact gun
6.) 3/8" drive 12mm impact socket
7.) Small sledgehammer
8.) 3/8" drive 6" extension
9.) 1/2" drive 27mm impact deep socket
10.) 1/2" drive 22mm impact deep socket
11.) flange puller (with two M8x1.25 bolts)

Parts replaced:
1.) 08206-9002 Honda PS Fluid (x4 replace the entire system w/ cooler, probably only x2 if you just want to rebuild the pump)
2.) 91347-PY3-000 O-RING (16.8X1.9)
3.) 91348-PY3-000 O-RING (54.0X1.9)
4.) 91349-PY3-000 O-RING (68.5X1.9)
5.) 91249-P02-003 SEAL, POWER STEERING PUMP

There's also another minor o-ring for the feed housing and the shaft bearing that can be replaced. It's typically the seal that leaks and the bearing that dies, so the o-rings are optional really. The bearing I had was okay, but the seal had a dirt trail that probably meant it was leaking fluid from the seal. I replaced it just because I didn't want to deal with the mess if it did leak after installing it.

PROCEDURE:
1.) Lubricate the inside of the pump housing and outside of the seal. Drive seal into pump housing with the outside of the seal facing the bearing.


2.) Install washer with radiused side facing the seal.




3.) Set the bearing/shaft assembly onto/into the pump housing.


4.) Using the 27mm impact deep socket I have and a hammer, drive the bearing/shaft assy into the housing until it bottoms out into the housing and is completely below the circumferential groove for the snap ring.




5.) Install snap ring.




6.) Flip the housing around and install the spring.


7.) Install the long dowel pin.


8.) Lubricate and replace the two o-rings (not shown). Install the bottom plate.


9.) Install the short dowel pin.


10.) Install the rotor/vane housing. I installed it with the side with the two dimples facing the back of the pump housing. I can't remember which way it came out, but that's the way I put it back in and it works fine. Also, the shorter dowel pin isn't round...it's more of an oval shape, and so are the subsequent holes in every piece that goes on after this one.




11.) Install the rotor on the splined portion of the shaft, and insert each of the vane blades with the radiused ends facing outwards against the rotor housing.






12.) Install the last o-ring and mount the housing's rear plate.


13.) Insert the flange bolts and torque to spec.


14.) Install the drive pulley and torque the LH threaded nut to spec (I torqued it after installing it back on the car).


15.) Finished.

Dogginator

You make great threads.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I'll do a '98+ pump next since I have one of those too, and accidentally bought parts for it. You'll be able to see the change in pump design and how the new one is simpler.

hatchling37

Excellent write-up.

Circusraven

iTrader: (1)

Nice Write up, well put together.

Rediness_code

Awesome, only if more people could make useful posts like these.

Kendall

Is this linked to the FAQ yet?

GSRacer93

What are the benefits or reasons for doing this conversion?

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

There's no conversion here, just a rebuild.

GSRacer93

LOL, whoops. My bad. I read the title in the wrong context.

Nice writeup BTW

Benard

good write up, i just finished doing this recently...i wish this was done when i needed it lol

peckster

Awsome write-up. I just rebuilt my 97 accord pump. Thanks to the help of this site. The weird part is it steers much easier. I thought i was just fixing leaks. Thanks again.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

wow.. thanks for a great write-up!

Added to the faq

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

threads like this make me want to rebuild my pump, just for the hell of it.

cepp

nice write up. on my things to do list. torque specs?

b18c4door

Please do this - Mine is howling like a horny wolf during a full moon I am getting a b16A pump used to use on mine, but if I can re-build the pump, that would be awesome...

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I put together the '98+ pump overhaul thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/how-rebuilding-98-01-power-steering-ps-pump-2821495/

assassin51

Does any one know where I can get a Rotor and the vanes?

packge33

Where did you get the beariing? I have seen many rebuild kits, but they seem to just have the seals... When I take it apart, I want to replace it all..

thanks,

Hitm4n

Hi!

Great thread, very helpful, having a probable pump leak myself.

I've opened up mine yesterday and having trouble to get the pump drive shaft(with bearing on) out...
Can i ask how did you manage to get it out ?

I've tried to tap gently from the rear side with a rubber hammer, no luck... didn't want to break someting.

Could someone help with this matter ?

Thank you

xclusiveplayer

Were you able to remove the shaft? I tried to place a piece of wood over the shaft tip and hammer it with a metal hammer, but no matter what it just wouldn't budge. I just gave up at that point and replaced all the easily accessible seals that I could get to. Anybody want to offer some tips?

The dimple on the rotor is supposed to be facing out towards the cover if you want to do it right, but it doesn't really matter. You don't need an expensive snap ring pliers to remove the bearing retaining ring, any cheap sharp point pliers will do the job; I used a 3$ one from home depot.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

hate to dig up an old thread but what is it exactly that causes these things to whine like crazy? mine suddenly started freaking the hell out the other day

Marmbo

If air is getting into the system or you are low on fluid can cause the pump to get really loud. Could be failed/failing bearing as well?

nus_dogg

^^ x2. Low on fluid.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I want to say that I used a steering wheel puller to push the bearing out.