Ryan111987

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Techno Tonis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan111987 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A buddy and I are going to change the clutch and flywheel in my ap1 this weekend... i was just wondering how long it took any of you guys to do... Hes an ASE master mechanic and i know basic stuff.... can i expect the same time as a FWD? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

From what I have heard....usually takes around 9 hours the FIRST time on an S2K.

HondaKyle

I would rather change the clutch on an S2000 over a civic any day! Its a lot easier

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would rather change the clutch on an S2000 over a civic any day! Its a lot easier </TD></TR></TABLE>

What have you been smoking??? I can do a B or D series clutch in like 2.5 hr's. You have to practically remove the motor in the S2000. There are ALLOT of things that need to be taken off before you can even get to all the bolts. Not to mention you have to lower the entire front sub frame like 3" to get to the tops ones. I too head it takes a full day for a first time job. Best time I have heard is 4hrs and that was from someone who had done it like 6 times. I added a small write up to our DIY thread awhile back.

Techno Tonis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would rather change the clutch on an S2000 over a civic any day! Its a lot easier </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ryan111987

lol thanks for the input guys... i have have a manual and very detailed step by step instructions with pics.. so i guess ill see what happends.

Chris.

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would rather change the clutch on an S2000 over a civic any day! Its a lot easier </TD></TR></TABLE>

have you even taken a wrench to your s2k yet? it took me about 2-3 hours to do the complete clutch/flywheel swap in my old em1... you must be smoking the ganja

HondaKyle

oh I figured it would be like most rear wheel drive cars...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

have you even taken a wrench to your s2k yet? it took me about 2-3 hours to do the complete clutch/flywheel swap in my old em1... you must be smoking the ganja </TD></TR></TABLE> CHEA!!!!

JDM knowledge

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would rather change the clutch on an S2000 over a civic any day! Its a lot easier </TD></TR></TABLE>
fail! Civic can be swapped out in about 2 1/2 hours.

rice4life

iTrader: (3)

it took my and a buddy about 8 hours to do mine. it was the first time i did a clutch on a rear wheel drive. i can do a b-series myself in about 2-3 hours.

i think i paid $60 for that tranny jack from harbor freight. it's definitely worth it.

here's some pics to help you out.

http://gotspeed.110mb.com/2001_s2000_clutch.php

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh I figured it would be like most rear wheel drive cars...</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is for the most part... There is just allot of stuff in the way, including the firewall and exhaust manifold. lol

rice4life

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It is for the most part... There is just allot of stuff in the way, including the firewall and exhaust manifold. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

and the two starter bolts that takes an hour to get off.

make sure you have a lot of extension.


Modified by rice4life at 9:46 AM 8/21/2008

White Smoke

Thanks for the pics rice4life

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tools: 12mm,10mm,14mm combo wrenches, 10mm,12mm,14mm sockets
14mm flex socket, 24"12" extensions, ratchet wrenches, a long handle makes it real easy to
loosen the tensioner. +/ - screwdrivers, torque wrenches, clutch alignment tool. Flashlight.

1 Remove air box, 10mm heads / Battery terminals 10mm stubby wrench
2 Accessory belt, 14mm head on a breaker bar for the tensioner
3 Heat shield on manifold, 12mm heads (I say heads because the threads are stated in manual)
4 Battery heat shield, 10mm Last bolt just loosens
5 Alternator top bolt out, loosen lower, 14mm
6 A/C pump bolts loosen 2x 14mm on top, remove forward most top bolt, disconnect wire from under car later
7 Disconnect two sensor plugs on head by the firewall
8 Disconnect vacuum hose (the one shown in manual at rear of head ((suction valve))
9 Mark steering joint, and remove 10mm bolt at front (other bolt loosened later)Make sure steering wheel is locked straight.
10 Swing alternator out a bit to get to upper starter bolt, 14mm remove but leave bolt resting on alternator,
YOU WILL WANT A 14mm FLEX SOCKET . . . + about 24" of extension, I recommend using duct tape so you wont drop the socket amid all the hoses and wires. You get at this bolt from an angle, and directly between the throttle body and alternator.
11 Disconnect power steering connectors, one big and one small (electrical)
12 Loosen exhaust manifold bolts at head 12mm (Keep Snug)
13 Remove 14mm bolt at rear of intake manifold, wiring harness support bar
14 Raise car, I recommend at least 24" clearance at body jack points. I managed to get here in 18 min.

When under car you will want these
10mm combo wrench, I use a gearwrench
12mm,14mm,17mm combo wrenches
12mm deep,12mm,14mm, 17mm socket, 6mm hex socket (short as possible)
24" and 12" extensions you'll need at least 36" for the top tranny bolts
Small crook needle nose pliers for removing plastic snap in wire holders
Ratchets, 3/8" and 1/2" drive with 1/2 to 3/8 adapter
Impact wrench with 17mm, 19mm deep sockets or short extension.

1 Remove splash shield
2 Remove front engine bump stop (I just leave mine off now)
3 Loosen rear steering joint bolt and slide joint back to disconnect, 10mm
4 Disconnect A/C wire and remove remaining bolts from pump (3)
5 Remove cable ground wire to engine block
6 Remove 14mm bolt on lower wiring harness support bar
7 Remove clutch slave cyl. 12mm open end wrench
8 Disconnect 02 sensor connectors, and tranny wiring harness
9 Remove cat. conv. use the deep 12mm socket and box end 12 wrench for the front two, 14mm combo for the rear
10 Loosen 3 lower driveshaft bolts(on each end), 6mm hex, if you cant get the wrench in there, remember the
shaft slides on cv joints. Parking brake should be on.
11 Remove 14mm bolts on exhaust manifold support, remove manifold. When your're up top again to remove
the manifold nuts, release the parking brake, and remove the shifter ****/lever. 10mm heads
12 Remove 19mm subframe bolts (The middle ones that come out)
13 Turn driveshaft 180*
14 Remove bolts that connect shifter box to tranny tunnel, 10mm
15 Loosen lower tranny to engine bolts, 14mm/17mm
16 Put the brake back on, then loosen the other 3 driveshaft bolts (each end) Mark driveshaft if it is not yet, and remove.

Now its time to support the subframe, I just use a 24" 2x4 on a jack placed under the front beam and the oil pan.
when supported, back out the front subframe bolts 3" (19mm) and the rear subframe bolts 3" (17mm)
When the subframe comes down a bit you can see exactly how for to back out the bolts by looking at the gap in the
threads.

With the subframe lowered and supported by the bolts you can now get to the top tranny bolts. (17mm)
Support the tranny and remove the 3 tranny crossbeam bolts at rear, remember to pull out the release fork
so the tranny will come all the way off the engine.

For the clutch you will need 12 point sockets, 10mm for the pressure plate, and 17mm for the flywheel.
I'll undo the PP bolts just by hand in a crisscross pattern, they aren't that tight. For the flywheel bolts,
I'll zip out those with a low power impact wrench so I don't need a flywheel holder. If you have a Toda
flywheel, you can use a 14mm deep socket through those holes to hold the FW. If not you can use a big
screwdriver or prybar to hold the starter teeth on the FW. When putting the tranny back in, remember to
have to alignment pins in place, and that perfect alignment between tranny/engine is just as important
as a clutch alignment tool. It will slip right on

When putting the cat back in, it will be good to leave the exhaust man. loose, sometimes it's a tight fit with
aftermarket cat-back systems.

The plastic white ring around the inner shift boot comes out a special way, you will see little arrows that
point to where the barbs are. Take a small but long flat head screwdriver and insert just inside the ring
through the hole in the rubber boot while lifting on the boot at the same time.

I have found that the clutch change has a negligible effect on the front end alignment.

Remember this is my quick way of pulling my tranny, I may have left something out, so double check with
the manual before starting. So there you have it, and I'm going out in a few to do it again . . . </TD></TR></TABLE>

rice4life

iTrader: (3)

i also recommend marking the 6 bolt that you'll have to loosen to drop the subframe. so you can try to put the subframe back to where it was when you tighten it up. if not, your steering will be off center and you'll need an alignment to straighten your steering wheel. your alignment wont be off by much, just your steering wheel will be off center. i forgot to mark mine and my steering is off about 1/2". i still haven't realign mine yet, waiting to put new wheels and coilovers on before new race specs alignment.

ReddotsS2K

lol. i have had to change mine twice and it is the biggest bitch...last time i knocked it out in 6 hours (with a friend and a car lift)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and the two starter bolts that takes an hour to get off.

make sure you have a lot of extension.


Modified by rice4life at 9:46 AM 8/21/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

word to that...

some pics i took of the last time...(and i don't remove the header...i shaved off one of the firewall mounts and now i have room.















The reason you have to drop the motor so far (above tranny)


I took out 3 of the 4 bolts on each motor mount to help pivot it


not sure if this is the correct way, but i had to push in the clutch fork in order for the tranny to hook back up to the motor


and the part that i shaved off the header...

rice4life

iTrader: (3)

you cheated using a lift.

how many miles was on that clutch?

not sure why you had to push the fork in to put the tranny in. i put the release fork in after the tranny is mounted to the motor. just like you have to remove the fork before pulling the tranny off the motor.

ReddotsS2K

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cheated using a lift.

how many miles was on that clutch?

not sure why you had to push the fork in to put the tranny in. i put the release fork in after the tranny is mounted to the motor. just like you have to remove the fork before pulling the tranny off the motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it had about 20k on it...

i believe i put the tranny on as far as i could first, but still had about a quarter inch of space between the bell housing and the engine...then i put the fork on and pressed it and the bell housing basically sucked itself to the motor...weird.

lol i can't imagine having to do half of the **** to this car without a lift...i have changed the differential twice also and it would be nearly impossible...

If anyone around my area ever needs to use the lift then PM me (s2000 owner only)

HondaKyle

Is that a Ebay clutch? do you like it?

honeybadger

Changing the clutch on the S2000 is the hardest thing I've ever had to do on a car.

ReddotsS2K

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that a Ebay clutch? do you like it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the one i took off was a exedy...it didn't last long for me...the one i put on in the pics is a ebay clutch...it grabs super fast and is a bitch to drive in traffic. we shall see how long it lasts...prob has about 3k on it now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honeybadger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Changing the clutch on the S2000 is the hardest thing I've ever had to do on a car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

its def up there on hard **** to do

HondaKyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReddotsS2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the one i took off was a exedy...it didn't last long for me...the one i put on in the pics is a ebay clutch...it grabs super fast and is a bitch to drive in traffic. we shall see how long it lasts...prob has about 3k on it now.</TD></TR></TABLE> yeah keep me updated! dude the stock exhaust is a bitch to get off with out cutting.

ReddotsS2K

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> yeah keep me updated! dude the stock exhaust is a bitch to get off with out cutting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your not lying. i prob had to remove it about 4 or 5 times while i had it on there....

ReddotsS2K

oh and kyle, the clutch has been acting up lately...not sure what the problem is but the pedal is sometime easy as **** to press and sometime hard to press...i bled the **** out of multiple times and still facked...i am picking up a new slave cylinder saturday and will see what tat does for me.

HondaKyle

Sounds like the slave cylinder, thats what happened right before mine went out.

rice4life

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReddotsS2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it had about 20k on it...

i believe i put the tranny on as far as i could first, but still had about a quarter inch of space between the bell housing and the engine...then i put the fork on and pressed it and the bell housing basically sucked itself to the motor...weird.

lol i can't imagine having to do half of the **** to this car without a lift...i have changed the differential twice also and it would be nearly impossible...

If anyone around my area ever needs to use the lift then PM me (s2000 owner only) </TD></TR></TABLE>

20k miles? that doesn't sound good since i just put an Exedy oem in mine.

the tranny didn't go in all the way because it was probably stuck on the dowel pins, it's common. i just put a couple of bolt in on each corners and tighten them down evenly.

if i live closer to you, i would take you up on that offer for the lift.
makes it much easier for the big jobs.