nnamssorxela

Ok, so I replaced my front o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) that screws into the exhaust manifold from the engine bay.


Now that that code is cleared and gone, I realized my bank 1 sensor 2 is also bad. Isn't this the sensor that's right after the cat? I mean aren't there only 2 sensors for this car? I googled rear O2 sensor and got nothing. The only ones I found are for the "front bank."

Are they the same?

Thanks,
-Alex

nnamssorxela

anyone?

nnamssorxela

There has got to be someone out there that has replaced theirs themselves. I know which one it is, I just either can't find it, or don't know the proper name for it to order it off the internet.

It's the down stream one that you access under the car, right behind the first CAT. I'm pretty sure the code reader said "bank 1 sensor 2."

I was also told that if I remove it and check the connections and wash it in gasoline that sometimes they will clear up and work again.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
-Alex

GhostAccord

It is known as the SHO2S or Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor. Honda part number 36532-P0A-A01 aka RR Oxygen Sensor. They are the more expensive of the two O2 Sensors on our cars.

There is no easy way to clean baked on carbon from an O2 sensor. Both gasoline and carb cleaner do nothing to the baked on carbon deposits on the O2 element. You may be able to clean the metal casing with gas and a scrub brush. That does nothing to clean the element inside that is the business end of the O2 sensor.


If you have an Oxy-Acetylene torch, You could try heating up the ceramic element inside the O2 sensor until it's red hot and then dunking it into a bucket of freezing cold water. Repeat process until the baked carbon crackd up into pieces small enough to fit out of the holes in the metal casing around the sensor..... This will most likely ruin your O2 so it's not recommended.

NOTE: autopartsonlinecanada.com/ has a Denso rear O2 for $106 CDN Try TAS auto parts, I'm sure they have the Denso style ones as well.


Modified by GhostAccord at 12:41 PM 8/12/2008

nnamssorxela

perfect!

A great help as usual GhostAccord

I found it for $80 on TAS.

I got the front one on onlinewholesaleparts com but I could not find the rear one. If you can somehow find it let me know, I have 10% off...haha.

Hopefully that will fix the surging. I couldn't make it home last night, the car wouldn't accelerate and then would dip down to the point of almost stalling. I was going to clean the EGR ports, but the problem goes away briefly when resetting the ECU, so I figured it's the o2 sensor.

Thanks again,
-Alex

girlbali

You can call this people 1-866-841-7776 and talk to Lina
they have best price on O2
I got mine Denso before the cat for $43.95+7s/h

csnow

The rear one is unlikely to do anything to improve function. As I understand it, the second one is just there to prove that the first one is working.

I tried a "universal" rear sensor to save money, which involved soldering on the connectors. Went about 1 week before I got the check engine light and the code was back. This was long enough to pass inspection, so I ignored it for another year. Then I sprung for the proper part, and have had no problems for years.

Even with these 2 rear sensors throwing codes, there was no operational impact. Actually, when I ran without the rear sensor connected, there was no impact. These are some of the reasons I really do not think the rear sensor does anything useful.

Best of luck.

GhostAccord

You are partially correct in this statement. The secondary O2 isn't completely useless. It monitors the condition of your catalytic converter. You are corret in that it doesn't contribute to the driveability of the car as the primary one does.

Sorry I was napping and didn't realize that you replaced your primary and it didn't corect your problem. OP how did you come to figure that your secondary O2 was bad? Most times when there is a power loss issue or stumble in conjunction with a secondary O2 code. The cat is usually the culprit. It is most likely dirty/clogged and would require replacement.

nnamssorxela

gah! I posted this earlier but I guess it never went through. Should I just pull the cat and cut out the center section? Or replace the cat entirely with a straight pipe?

The CEL light was on, and the code was for the bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit which is the O2 sensor.

The CAT makes sense though, because at high rpm it seems bogged down.
If I replace the CAT will I need a new o2 sensor as well?

Thanks again,
-Alex

GhostAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nnamssorxela &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should I just pull the cat and cut out the center section? Or replace the cat entirely with a straight pipe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would never suggest removing the cat for any reason other than on a strictly track car. That being said if you do want to remove it. You will need an O2 simulator or some sort of O2 hack to fool the ECU into thinking the secondary O2 is reading the correct measurements. If you don't the CEL light will remain on.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nnamssorxela &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The CEL light was on, and the code was for the bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit which is the O2 sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it is a code addressing the heater circuit than it should be replaced but......

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nnamssorxela &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I replace the CAT will I need a new o2 sensor as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you replace the cat and the bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit malfunction CEL goes away than I wouldn't bother replacing the O2 sensor.

So to make a long answer short replace your cat with a direct fit replacement. Magnaflow has them for our Accords for under $100 I think. Reset your ECU and then see what happens. That may clear your secondary O2 CEL.

nnamssorxela

thanks!

I'll give it a try. Thanks for all the help...

Problem: I'm going to college, how should I store the car for the next 3 months until thanksgiving when I can work on it? Put the battery on a charger? Gas stabilizer?

GhostAccord

Not saying that you should do what I did. But I had my Accord Sit outside for 8 months last year including winter and early spring with 1/2 a tank of premium in it. No stabilizer or fuel line antifreeze. All I did was start the car and let it idle for 20mins once a month.

3 months this time of year shouldn't be that bad if you can get someone to start it up every now and then to keep the battery charged up. If not, then you may want to put the battery on a trickle charge. Your gas should be OK though.