UfoTofU

I currently have an all stock 91 CRX DX 5 speed with DPFI. Just trying to do some preventative maintenance (timing belt, tensioner, and water pump) since I have no idea when they were last done.

Like lots of people the crank pulley bolt is stalling me. I've read almost every post on this topic and want to try avoiding an impact unless it is my last resort.
I can't really get a definitive answer as to whether an impact is bad to use or not.

So I bought this tool :

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade...r=8-2

I have the type of crank pulley that does NOT have the hex shape around the hole that the bolt goes into.

I got the tool today and went to try to get that damn bolt off......

The tool doesn't fit!

I have a double row crank pulley that has not only a spot for the alternator belt but also for the air conditioning thus making it thicker. This tool seems to be designed for the single row type crank pulleys.

I was thinking that maybe an extension could be welded onto the part that fits over the bolt itself so that I can clear both rows on the crank pulley?

Input? Thanks in advance.

iheartteal

i always jus use an impact, i cant see why it would be bad. good luck

Tippyman

I work at a Honda dealership and we impact the **** out of crank pulley bolts.

One of the best ways to get them off is by hitting it for a while with the gun in the "loosen" position, and then rapidly switching back and forth between tighten and loosen on the gun while holding down the trigger. You're probably not supposed to do it, but even my shitty blue point gun can take them off using this method.

BTW: You're honda dealership has the proper crank pulley tool if you still want to do it by hand.

UfoTofU

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I work at a Honda dealership and we impact the **** out of crank pulley bolts.

One of the best ways to get them off is by hitting it for a while with the gun in the "loosen" position, and then rapidly switching back and forth between tighten and loosen on the gun while holding down the trigger. You're probably not supposed to do it, but even my shitty blue point gun can take them off using this method.

BTW: You're honda dealership has the proper crank pulley tool if you still want to do it by hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean at the dealership your not really supposed to use the impact gun method?

I was thinking of taking it to a dealership and seeing if maybe they would break it loose for me, but then I would have to put it back on after i get the timing belt and all changed.

Tippyman

No, I mean you're probably not supposed to flip the switch on the gun back and forth. You won't hurt the crank, but might mess up the gun.

We only use the hand tool when the guns fail to remove them.

4 ft breaker bar &gt; impact gun.

IndySporty

To the OP:
I worked at the local Honda Dealer here for a couple years and I've been hitting crank pulleys with impact guns since about 1998. I have never one single time seen damage occur from using the gun. As a matter of fact, times when I did NOT have an impact gun are the only times that I have ever damaged a crank pulley and/or pulley bolt.

UfoTofU

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IndySporty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To the OP:
I worked at the local Honda Dealer here for a couple years and I've been hitting crank pulleys with impact guns since about 1998. I have never one single time seen damage occur from using the gun. As a matter of fact, times when I did NOT have an impact gun are the only times that I have ever damaged a crank pulley and/or pulley bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe I will just have to see if my friendly local Honda Dealer will break the bolt for me.

How the hell do I put it back on proper after I have done the timing belt and water pump? Or would as tight as I could get it by hand be good until I could get it somewhere where they would tighten it down proper?

Correct me if I am wring but the crank pulley is mated to the crankshaft via the little "key" or "cog" (not sure of the proper word) and the crank pulley bolt just holds the pulley against that?

iheartteal

theres splines and a woodruff key that keep the pulley from slipping and the bolt holds it to that

UfoTofU

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iheartteal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres splines and a woodruff key that keep the pulley from slipping and the bolt holds it to that</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think I will just replace the bolt with a nice cotter pin then

Just kidding.

Tippyman

Lol.

Actually, the proper method to re-tighten the crank bolt is to put a little motor oil on it, then torque to 145 ft lbs, loosen it, then retorque to 119 ft lbs.

IMO, hammer the hell out of it with an impact gun and call it a day. Yes I work at honda, yes that is my recommendation, yes if you bring your car to the dealership for service that is what they'll do to it, no it won't **** anything up.

UfoTofU

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol.

Actually, the proper method to re-tighten the crank bolt is to put a little motor oil on it, then torque to 145 ft lbs, loosen it, then retorque to 119 ft lbs.

IMO, hammer the hell out of it with an impact gun and call it a day. Yes I work at honda, yes that is my recommendation, yes if you bring your car to the dealership for service that is what they'll do to it, no it won't **** anything up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well that basically puts all of my worries to rest.

At least you know the right torque sequence and how it should be done.

I just want the damn thing off of there so I can get to putting on these damn parts that I bought!

IQ

I just did this a few months ago on an 89 d16a6 with the ac and alt belt and had no problem using a similar tool. Here's a link to the tool I picked up: http://www.etoolcart.com/index...=5098

It was deep enough to stay within the center bore of the pulley while the pin locked into place within one of the outer holes.

I needed the tool when installing the pulley to keep it from rotating while tightening.

Best of luck.

UfoTofU

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IQ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just did this a few months ago on an 89 d16a6 with the ac and alt belt and had no problem using a similar tool. Here's a link to the tool I picked up: http://www.etoolcart.com/index...=5098

It was deep enough to stay within the center bore of the pulley while the pin locked into place within one of the outer holes.

I needed the tool when installing the pulley to keep it from rotating while tightening.

Best of luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It looks like the one that I bought was a knock-off of this one or vice-versa.

I am going to try a couple more times before I completely give up the fight.

Did you also have the double row crank pulley?

D16SiHatch

you could try a chain wrench. i borrowed one from a friend to get my crank pulley bolt off. you may even be able to rent one of these at autozone.

fireant

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16SiHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could try a chain wrench. i borrowed one from a friend to get my crank pulley bolt off. you may even be able to rent one of these at autozone.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

But put a leather strap or something on the teeth, or you will mess up the tracks where the belt goes (ask me how I konw )

Actually, I'd recommend not using a chain wrench for anything except self-defense.

iheartteal

if u rly wanted to u could take the transmission off and get some1 to hold the flywheel while u take the bolt out the crank, but i would jus use and impact

crxb18ls

When I removed my first crank pulley bolt-- It was with a long breaker bar and the car on the ground. After that lesson and flying forward when it broke free. I used a the 1/2" impact with the proper mm socket. Just recently i had to do it once again for the pulley on a b18. Instead of the back and forth method - I did a quick tap on the 3/4" impact then used the 1/2" impact.


Modified by crxb18ls at 7:37 PM 4/30/2008

IQ

I did also have the double row pulley. I'll snap photos for you tonight.

89hatcher

iTrader: (1)

try removing the flywheel cover and jamming a needle nose plier in the teeth of the flywheel and go get a 4ft+ pole and use your breaker bar and a impact socket to break it free.

UfoTofU

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxb18ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I removed my first crank pulley bolt-- It was with a long breaker bar and the car on the ground. After that lesson and flying forward when it broke free. I used a the 1/2" impact with the proper mm socket. Just recently i had to do it once again for the pulley on a b18. Instead of the back and forth method - I did a quick tap on the 3/4" impact then used the 1/2" impact.


Modified by crxb18ls at 7:37 PM 4/30/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually hadn't thought about having the car on the ground so that the front passenger tire is touching to help hold the tranny / wheel in place while someone is in the car in 5th with the brakes on.

I have tried the 5th gear and brakes method but not while it was on the ground.

fireant

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89hatcher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try removing the flywheel cover and jamming a needle nose plier in the teeth of the flywheel and go get a 4ft+ pole and use your breaker bar and a impact socket to break it free.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats how I got mine off before I had an impact. Take off the cover, then wedge an old screwdriver or a bolt into one of the holes on the flywheel, and let it turn until its up against the block. Then proceed to jump etc on your breaker bar.

superex87

if the car is jacked up with both wheels off, you can put a large screw driver in the rotor cooling vents (this will cause the rotor to not turn forward anymore (do to both sides, and make sure the tranny is in gear and walah its held still so you can get the crank bolt loose

GLI

Remember righty tighty, lefty loosey not right loosey lefty tighty. Or some ish like this will happen and you'll end paying $12 for a new one of these.

UfoTofU

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GLI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember righty tighty, lefty loosey not right loosey lefty tighty. Or some ish like this will happen and you'll end paying $12 for a new one of these.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is friggin' impressive that you actually broke it!

GLI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UfoTofU &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is friggin' impressive that you actually broke it! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Anything is possible with air tools...