mattmw88

Just replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, flywheel, clutch master and slave cylinders, that should do it right?

WRONG! For some reason after I adjust the clutch everything feels good. Then I go to drive it and after about 5 miles the clutch pedal becomes much firmer and the engagement point of the clutch changes (have to let the pedal out completely before it will grab). I also got on the car a little bit after I noticed this and heard the clutch slip under power.

Does any of this make sense? I know that the clutch pedal adjustments are tight-locknut C and locknut A. I didn't play with the clutch switch as the car has always started just fine with regard to the amount of clutch pedal.



Could someone help explain how to adjust the pedal?

Thanks in advance!!!

prelude1897

if you just replaced the clutch, don't get on it cause it needs a break in period of about 300-500 miles

mgags7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude1897 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you just replaced the clutch, don't get on it cause it needs a break in period of about 300-500 miles</TD></TR></TABLE>

"Getting on it" does not effect the break-in of a friction surface like the clutch. They don't want it slipping in that period, so they just say that, what they really mean is don't bang it into gear at 9k and let the clutch do the rev matching. Although, your advice is good for this guy because his hydraulic problems are making him slip under throttle.

OP: It sounds to me like you either did an insufficient job of bleeding the line, you have a leak, or that you didn't adjust the clutch rod correctly.

If the engagement point is moving around, you have a leak or some air in the system. If it is consistently too high like that, screw the rod into the pedal farther so that you shorten the distance btw pedal and firewall.

prelude1897

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

"Getting on it" does not effect the break-in of a friction surface like the clutch. They don't want it slipping in that period, so they just say that, what they really mean is don't bang it into gear at 9k and let the clutch do the rev matching. Although, your advice is good for this guy because his hydraulic problems are making him slip under throttle.

OP: It sounds to me like you either did an insufficient job of bleeding the line, you have a leak, or that you didn't adjust the clutch rod correctly.

If the engagement point is moving around, you have a leak or some air in the system. If it is consistently too high like that, screw the rod into the pedal farther so that you shorten the distance btw pedal and firewall.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's pretty much what I meant. Don't race every chance you get or pass 5300 rpms all the time

mattmw88

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude1897 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you just replaced the clutch, don't get on it cause it needs a break in period of about 300-500 miles</TD></TR></TABLE>

Guess I should have stated everything, I've got about 500 miles on the clutch.

mgags7-I have tried adjusting the pedal (screwing the rod in until the pedal felt firm) and it worked for 5 miles, then back to ****.

If my fluid level isn't going down and I don't notice any fluid anywhere I guess the only option is to try to bleed it some more?

Any help is appreciated guys!

dagle

iTrader: (1)

yeah bleed it again, but it might just be that u did the adjustment wrong. because if u look at the diagram to adjust engagement point, there's 1 to adjust where it engages and another to lock it in place. are u sure everythings tightened down?

smackdown

i had the same issue is your CM new?

Hawkze_2.3

Is the clutch damper leaking? Are you 100% all the parts where correct and the install was done right? Just thoughts.....

mattmw88

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smackdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same issue is your CM new?</TD></TR></TABLE>
CM? What's that?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the clutch damper leaking? Are you 100% all the parts where correct and the install was done right? Just thoughts.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll double check for leaks/bleed as soon as I can, but I'm super busy this week/end.

Pretty sure that the install was with correct parts and was done correctly, it worked for 500+ miles before this...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dagle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u look at the diagram to adjust engagement point, there's 1 to adjust where it engages and another to lock it in place. are u sure everythings tightened down?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could you be more specific? I loosened locknut A and locknut c, then backed the clutch pedal switch A off so that I could adjust the pushrod going to the master cylinder until I felt that the pressure was adequate. Then I adjusted the clutch pedal switch A and tightened both the locknut C and A.

I figured that adjusting clutch pedal switch B wasn't needed (thought it had to do with the starting of the car), but maybe that's my problem...

I'll post up when I've had another chance to look at it. Any help is appreciated!!!