spool310

I have a few questions about painting. I read the thread at the top of the page, but it does not specify how long I have to wait to Wet sand and buff after I lay the final Clear coat. I am using Nason base and Nason Select Clear 496-00 Clearcoat. Please help. Also, I a using a 3m Buffing pad with 3M Rubbing compound 05973.

P.S. At the time, I am at the primer stage. Before I lay the base coat, Can I use 600 grit wet to sand primer? Thanks!

88redrex

Don't think your primer needs to be wet sanded. 600-800 grit before base should be good

powerflow

Try to source some tech sheets on the product to help guide you in the right direction. 600 wet will be fine for most colors, but for a heavy metallic you may want take it out to a finer grit like 800 even if you plan to seal it, to prevent sand scratches. Buff time depends on the product and conditions. If you use a fast hardener and your using a heated booth, you should be able to buff around an hour after paint. To be on the safe side I would just wait 12 hrs to a day, depending on your conditions.

spool310

88 Red, my primer is rough and I read in the thread at the top that wet sanding will save time and will extend sand paper life.

Poerflow-

I am doing this in my garage...No booth here. Its hot here though. Around 80 in mid-afternoon. Should I just let it sit for 24hrs after last clearcoat?

powerflow

You can wet sand it or dry sand, its up to you. If you have a lot of material to block and level, I would guide coat then wet sand.

I would let it sit for at least 24 hrs before buffing. You say you have 3M pefect-it II, but you will also need a semi-abrasive polish to remove the swirl marks/ haze left by the buffing compound. 3M final finish polish 82876 / 82877, Menzerna final polish II are some good brands.

jrmtegra

you need a white pad for the compound and a black pad for the swirl mark remover. give it at least 24 hours. the longer it sits the harder it gets, meaning it will be harder to go through

spool310

THanks Power...Thanks Jrm...

I was not aware that I needed a second finish glaze. Is the black pad foam as well or is it another material?

powerflow

Don't confuse polish w/ glaze, two totally different products. You need polish but not glaze to remove the rotary swirls/ haze. The black pad is also foam, I prefer using a more aggressive pad like the orange w/ the first polish step, after the buffing compound.

spool310

Power:

So I need to also aquire 3M final finish polish 82876 / 82877 after the buffing. Can I do it right after buffing or do I have to wait? Aslo is it two seperate polishes? 82876 being one and 82877 being another one? Sorry I am a little confused. Thanks!

powerflow

Its the same product, different size. You might want to try Menzerna final polish II, the 3M product I use is a PITA to find small sizes at reputable sites. The Menzerna on the other hand, is available at most detail supply sites.

spool310

Ohhh, Okay thanks again PowerFlow. I will look into the Menzerna. Also, do I do this final polish right after the buffing or is there a wait time?

spool310

Okay, sorry to bring this up again, but I am done painting and clearing the car. The suface is kinds rouph and has orange peal. Just to recap.

Wetsand supplying plenty of water using 2000 grit
Then use White foam pad along with 3M Rubbing compound 05973
Then get a black foam pads for polish (using 3M final finish polish 82876 / 82877, or Menzerna final polish II)
Then get a final glaze to finish? For the glaze, what kind of pad do I use?

LMK if my steps are correct please. Thanks.

92cxturbo

How many coats of clear did you put on the car? 1500 is better to start with, then 2000. Most clears are disgned to match the factory orange peal so its going to have some. Cheaper clears usually have more peal or die back. I buff on 1500 all the time for spot repairs but going over it with 2000 or finer is even better. you can apply the glaze by hand or buffer w/foam pad but youll still have to wipe off the glaze with a nice soft cloth. It will tell you how on the bottle.

spool310

I did 2 coats. I medium and one heavy coat. Okay, so I need three differnt types of chemicals then correct? 3M compound that I already have, 3M polish or something of the sort to remove swirls and then a hand glaze?

powerflow

I typically don't use glaze, the polish can finish off the process. If you are dealing w/ fresh black paint, it might help you out since your not familiar w/ the process and/or the products.

I wouldn't buff out anything less than 2000 grit. If I'm doing a large area or whole car, I finish wet sanding w/ Trizact 3000 grit on a DA. You can start with a wide range of grits, 800-1000-1200-1500 depending on what your doing and the surface peel. As I said before, I use an orange pad to polish out the rotary swirls, then use a black pad if necessary. Use a black pad or blue pad for the glaze.

jrmtegra

this whole subject is like asking whats the best car to drive. there are so many diferent ways to acheive the same result. everyone does everything different than the next. i would say find someone close to you that you could get to help show you their way. then try and mimick them. ask around, usually there is a younger guy or girl working as a prepper at some shops local to you. they would be willing to make a few extra bucks helping show you how to do it

spool310

Thanks for the advice guys... And Powerflow, yes I am dealing with fresh black paint.

Here is what I am working with...

spool310

So do you guys think that the wetsanding/buffing/polishing will make this paint shine more? LMK please

spool310

Anyone?

spool310

up

SneezinCD5

It all depends on how much clear you have on the car. From the looks of the side of the door, it looks to be very dry. You may have a hard time getting it flat without goung past the clear.

spool310

I can always reclear the vehicle. I beleive that all I have to do is 1000 westand grit the car as long as I do not affect the base. THen clean area and reclear correct?

powerflow

Personally, I wouldn't spend much time buffing on that car, looks like a big *** wave/ dent in the door. Try polishing it out w/ just a polish, it does look like its died back and slightly hazy. Re-clearing wouln't be a bad idea, some better pics would also help. Your time would be better spent fixing and re-clearing instead of wet sanding and buffing.

spool310

Well PowerFlow, I appreciate the input. Here are the before anf after pics. Start to finish. Mind you, this is my first full car paint job and i have no experience with body work (therefore I was not able to get the wave dent out the door). This is just my wife's daily and I just wanted practice. So I am not worried about the dents too much. Give me feeback on the pics. And also, what is the process for re-clearing?

IMPATIENT

iTrader: (1)

holy god jesus that looks horrible..

Sorry, not trying to be harsh.. but you really should have practiced before you started painting a car. cause those last pics look really rough.

another problem is that your using Nason. its very notorious for being tough to buff correctly, and is also know for having unpredictable drying characteristics, sometimes itll dry nice, sometimes itll dry dull, sometimes it just lays very peely. its cheap and thats why, just dont ever try to match it cause it will not happen,nason is only for all over paint jobs so dont try to repaint it cause i swear even your black paint will come out a different shade. Its crazy. your gonna need a whole lot of wetsanding and buffing. with the way that looks id throw some 1500 on a soft pad d/a and get to sanding cause youll be there forever if you do it by hand. just dont sand to much or buff to hard cause youll burn it.