Vinceg99

OK I am more into D-Series but bought the Wife a 93 Accord its an automatic.

OK so heres the deal the the first issue I was having was that when you would start it up the RPMS would go up then down up then down so basically up to around 2K RPM then drop down really fast sounded really weird but didnt do it all the time but it also had a higher then usual idle..... I though it was the IACV so I took that off and cleaned it up that didnt help....

Then one day my wife comes in and tells me her car wont start I go out there turn the key engine starts then dies immediately, try it again same thing so the next time I put my foot down on the gas pedal a bit start it rev it up a bit then take my foot off and its fine. But not taking any chances I just drove her to work I then did a complete tune-up plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv, and also cleaned out the IACV again.

First try it starts idles smooth and fine dioesnt do the RPM jump up and down and more important starts without having foot on the gas pedal.....

Well that was short lived happened like right away again and now my Wife is telling me that prety much anytime in order for her to start it she has to hold the gas pedal down...

So any thoughts or suggestions??

TIA!!

dtapia

do does the car stay running after it starts ?
if the car starts and stalls could be 1 of 2 problems main fuel realy or electrical portion of the ignition switch.
quick test for the ignition if it starts and stalls restart but to left the key return all the way you will have to release it so it disangages the starter and the car should stay on while holding the key in that position.
(2) main relay if it just starts and stall and you did the above step after it stalls go to the fuel filter and crack open the 12mm service port bolt and does fuel come out and is it under pressure ? or does it seem like no pressure ? no pressure most likley the main relay.
please post results so we can continue

Vinceg99

OK first it doesnt do it constantly its hit or miss, second sometimes when it is acting up you turn the key it starts then dies immediately BUT if you hold your foot down on the gas pedal start it that way yes it will stay running, doubt anything with the key since I dont do anything different just hold my foot down on the gas and it starts then runs fine BUT the idle does seem a bit high at times sometimes it idles fine other times it idles high I mean in drive with your foot on the brake sometimes it will sit at like 12-1300 RPM's in gear when warmed up.

dtapia

hmm .whats the timing at ? has a timing belt been done ? how many miles on it .

Duane_in_Japan

FITV???

Vinceg99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtapia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm .whats the timing at ? has a timing belt been done ? how many miles on it .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure havent checked the timing but I dont see how it would just change all of a sudden? Timing belt was supposedly done before we bought it miles are at 143k.

Vinceg99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FITV???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats the FITV?

Im thinking its going to be a sensor or EGR or something like that but im new to EGR on Hondas since none of mine ever had them would that throw a code?

And like I said its all intermitent I cant always get it to duplicate the results.

*EDIT* OK searched on the FITV maybe cleaning that and tightening it up will help like I read in one thread ill give it a try.

dtapia

just checking to see wonder if the belt is loose and possiably and i mean remote possiablity of it jumping a tooth.
im as a stump right now with out physically seen it.

Ronin1

I had a fuel relay on an earlier car that was intermittent like you are describing. It would start and run for the most part, but would occasionaly either not start (but crank) or start and die as soon as the key was released. It is also remotely possible that the neutral safety switch is getting difficult, but I doubt that it is the cause. If the ignition switch is shot you probably will not have any of the major electrical systems at the time that you are experiencing the starting problem.

One "trick" with a neutral safety switch that sometimes works is to put the car in neutral (rather than park) and try to start it, but I would be inclined to test the fuel relay first.

Vinceg99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtapia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just checking to see wonder if the belt is loose and possiably and i mean remote possiablity of it jumping a tooth.
im as a stump right now with out physically seen it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah its tough when you cant actually see it for yourself, harder to listen to the person and go from there then actally knowing and seeing the symptoms for yourself. I would have though of that as a possibility but like I said the problem is intermitent and once its running its fine. This is the exact case its harder to describe the problem then it seems if you were there in person to hear/see it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ronin1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a fuel relay on an earlier car that was intermittent like you are describing. It would start and run for the most part, but would occasionaly either not start (but crank) or start and die as soon as the key was released. It is also remotely possible that the neutral safety switch is getting difficult, but I doubt that it is the cause. If the ignition switch is shot you probably will not have any of the major electrical systems at the time that you are experiencing the starting problem.

One "trick" with a neutral safety switch that sometimes works is to put the car in neutral (rather than park) and try to start it, but I would be inclined to test the fuel relay first. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I could see the fuel relay as a possibility but by fuel reay are you refering to the main relay or is there another relay as well?

I couldnt see it being the neutral safety switch considering it doesnt ever have a problem turning over just the staying running part I had a Nissan with a temperamental neutral safety switch that I either had to move the shifter around in park or put it into neutral to start it.

I think im going to reclean the IACV and then also clean and tighten up the FITV and start there...Does anyone know if a D-series main relay is the same as the F-series? I have owned atleast one D-series (Civic and/or CRX's) for the last like 10 years or so and never had a problem like this before that why it has me so confused.......

dtapia

hey vince what is this fitv you are refering to im not sure what that is ? <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vinceg99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think im going to reclean the IACV and then also clean and tighten up the FITV and start there..........</TD></TR></TABLE>

Vinceg99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtapia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey vince what is this fitv you are refering to im not sure what that is ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont worry when Duane mentioned it earlier in the thread I had no clue myself what it was then I searched fitv in the accord forum got a post and here is what it said in there..........FITV = Fast Idle Thermo Valve

*EDIT* here the thread I was talking about https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1844067

dtapia

crap i didnt think of that lol these terms fora old guy are hard some times.

Vinceg99

LOL...Like I said I had no clue myself. Im not sure if its going to do anything for the start then die problem but the idle has been goofy and with 143k on it I highly doubt much has been done that way anyways looks like it was just a driver like it is now.

Vinceg99

Well that was easy enough to adjust my FITV its not on the bottom of the carb like some must be cause its an auto, its right on the front of the intake.

I adjusted that up without even taking it off the car (just to see if anything changed) and yeah it fixed the really high cold idle I was having BUT dont know if it fixed the start then die problem cause it didnt do it this time but again it doesnt always happen. Im going to keep messing with it ad see if I can get it to do it again or not.

dtapia

cool that would be nice if it cured.

Vinceg99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtapia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool that would be nice if it cured.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah it DEFINATELY would be nice considering I have been messing with it on and off for like 2 weeks and couldnt figure out anything! Thats why I HAD to post up on here since I couldnt and its much easier asking for help here then paying a mechanic!

Vinceg99

And thank you everyone for your help I will let you all know if its fixed or if it keeps acting up!

dtapia

thats what these message boards are for

kjmoy

My wife drives a 96 Honda accord EX (6cyls) and we had this starting problem since early on , 2000 (?). I've tried replacing distributor cap and rotor, genuine Honda spark plug wires, spark plugs, had the fuel injector clean by mechanics. Problem still persisted, come and go.

When the problem comes, it is always after the car siting in the garage for a while or overnite. To start the car, I press the gas pedal half way and hold the key. I was able to start the car most of the time and lots of smoke came out. Once it's started, the car will be ok for a while. It would not stall for anytime during the day. No dealer or mechanic can figure out why. Oh, yeah, I had the car in them numerous times to no avail.

I've been using fuel injector cleaner (good and expensive ones) every other week. I've not had starting problem for a while, may be once every few months. And I was able to start it with the procedure I gave above everytime. The car now has over 130,000 miles and still running well except this occasional starting problem.

ps-there is another thing I may try if this probelm persists more often. Which is, to replace the 'fuel injector relay, suggested by someone else at a different website, he had the same problem'. This replay is supposedly located next to the fuse box under the dashboard on the driver side.

Vinceg99

Yeah adjusting the FITV didnt help the start then die problem it happened again but it started fine the second time without needing the gas pedal pressed.

And same as you kjmoy its not an all the time problem but my Wife seems to think it wont start at all one day and I dont think thats the case its reassuring you have had the same problem and it hasnt kept you stranded anywhere.

Again with the fuel relay so is that considered the same as the main relay? Locations seem to be the same? I ask cause I dont have any manuals for an accord so this is my only knowledge of accords is coming on here talking to you guys!

dtapia

so you want the location of the main relay ?
here is the pic of its location up under the left of the steering wheel bolted to the top of the dash. to really see it you will need to remove the cruise control unit so gain access.

kjmoy

I believe the 'fuel injection relay' is also called 'main relay'. If you do decide to replace it, let us know how it turns out.

Sin-D

Mine sounds like the first problem what do I need to do for that?

Vinceg99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sin-D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine sounds like the first problem what do I need to do for that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Which first problem?

I do still have the problem occasionaly (happened once in 2 days now) of the start then die immediately.

Anyone know if a D-series from a civic main relay will work in an accord?