aging-accord

Weirdest thing just got back the car from the garage from replacing the ignitor, I pull the car in the driveway stick it in park and the idle pulses constantly from about 1000 up to 2000 rpm. It never did this before and the ignitor would have anything to do w/ that.

I did notice a leak in a heater hose that has to be fixed. I did a search in forum and read that the coolant should be bled. Could air from the leak be causing the strange idle???? I have aabout had it with this car.

91 Accord 4-dr f22a4

TIA

tech8

Yes, air in the system can cause a fluctuating idle.

zsudz922

also,another cheap thing that might fix it,put some good fuel system cleaner in the next time you fill up the tank.and/or you can manually clean the iacv.

aging-accord

Wow tech8 you're all over this message board today. Thanks.

I'm gonna fix the hose for the obvious reason and maybe rectify the pulsing idle in the process.

I have picked up a lot of info with the 'search' button and past posts.

You would by any chance know can the coolant system be bled by just leaving the rad cap off until the engine gets to operating temp? I'm looking at the car now and that bleed screw is nowhere to be found. I've seen diagrams #13 screw in the diagram isn't on my car.

tech8

The bleed screw should be at the location in this image.



... from the same link I posted in your other thread regarding the "S" light:

http://techauto.bravehost.com/

Yes, you can bleed the cooling system by leaving the rad cap off, with temp. controls set all the way to max heat, reving the engine, etc. ... On some cars, if the bleed screw hasn't been touched in years, it may be tough to loosen.

aging-accord

Hey Tech8

Thanks for the info. The diagram you sent now makes sense. It didn't note 'front of car' and lower radiator hose was throwing me not used to foreign jobs. I repaired the hose and bled the system from the radiator. Afraid to crack open that bled screw, I highly doubt the thing as been touch ever and afraid to open a new can of worms, nonetheless all most all the 'pulsing idle' went away. Now the temp gauge bounces....its always something
To no avail the cutting of the old hose at the hole and re-using it with a new clamp, failed after 4 hrs so another lesson learned is to just buy new hose and clamps. It worked long enough though to see a possible result.
Thanks again.

Hey, zsudsz992 thanks for the input its cool to see responses, I also see your from the 'burg. Not to far from it myself N.Hunt myself.

aging-accord

Well to no avail the pulsing is still there. I have read hrs of archived post everything from vac leaks, IACV, FITV, TB, TPS, and even watched that guys video thinking mine was the same (nice idea)

Its sorta similar to his and the others but mine only happens after I have driven the car for a bit. It starts up fine and drives fine but when I place the car in PARK (sometimes) in Neutral I have noticed the pulsing Idle starts. The weirded thing though I noticed I can prevent the pulsing idle from starting if I place my foot on the brake and hold it there while placing the car in park. It starts to climb in RPM but it holds at about 2000 rpm for about 30 sec then decrease to normal (around 1000 rpm) mind you the brake is applied the whole time....

I have bled my coolant, cleaned my IAVC, FITV,and TB. Checked my ECU for stored anything. Matched up my vac lines with a shop diagram, nothing disconnected or leaking. It has to be something simple. It just came back from the garage for a ignitor install and that would have anything to do w/ it.

I'm outta ideas and things to check or clean.

Twistedframe

When I read things like this, I always think of my situation which was the exact same one..

Try resetting the idle to factory standards. You can follow the procedure from any honda repair manual. Basically you'll be turning two screws to adjust it; throttle stop screw and the air bleed screw.

Chances are they have not moved since they were set originally, but after time with your instance of the ignitor steadily going out on you, the computer could have started reading a higher amount of unburnt fuel in your exhaust stream and adjusted the amount of fuel going into the engine to compensate. So, after replacing your ignitor and regaining full spark, you are now running lean since your fuel intake was trimmed down by the ECU. It will take some time for your ECU to relearn the new air/fuel ratios by itself. Try resetting the ECU by either by disconnecting the terminals for about 30 minutes or pulling the radio backup fuse for 15 seconds.

aging-accord

Thanks Twisted for the input, Its good to hear I'm not alone.

The idle was the last thing that I was gonna attempt, it was on the list but pushed back b/c of 1. I'm not super mechanic didn't want to make matters worse 2. I really didn't think that it could have changed it was fine before the ignitor and thought it would be after.
Actually I thought all the stuff I did so far was unbelieveable it has ran fine for 16yrs. What made me think was the car adjusted to the old setting and since I brought the car back from the garage the car in general just seemed odd. Idle different, trans shift points a little out of character, sound of car running just seemed different. The car is acting like a organ transplant in a human and rejecting or adjusting to the new component.

I found a few post on adjustments and I'm gonna go for it.

Thanks for the advice.