zelifcam

Honda Tech,

I'm having a problem. I need to replace a stripped lug stud but I can't figure it out! It's a front driver's side lug stud on a 1994 Honda Civic EX Coupe. I took the brake caliper off, the brake disc, and the 32mm axle nut. No help. My Haynes manual does not cover this procedure. If any of you have Chilton or Helm manuals, I would appreciate you looking this up for me, or if you know how it's done please let me in on the secret. The following is an illustration of my problem:



Any help will be much appreciated!

Sincerely,
Dougal

----------
zelifcam
Springfield - Chicago - Glendale Heights, Illinois
dougalw@mail.com

ScrapinSi

nice drawing...

Just spin the wheel until you find the place on the brake shield with the most clearance... then also bend the brake shield back if necessary. fidget with it, you'll get it out...

-Whitey-

wow thats a good drawing!

i think that whole piece comes off the car to make it real easy

zelifcam

The shield thing is further back, I forgot to draw it on there, but it's behind what I am calling the "hub".. the hub housing is (very) solid and that is what is blocking the lug stud from clearing.

For some reason, I am a "trial user" and I can't post again for another 24 hours. What are the terms of that?


[Modified by zelifcam, 10:02 PM 10/2/2002]

MPower332TI

hey guy...u have to take ur whole spindle off and take it to the dealer to get the hub seperated so they can press new studs in...i promise...it sorta sucks.stupid design if u ask me..

krazy

take off that brake shield or whatever it is and remove the hub to be easier. or once u get the shield off u can remove the stud i guess. the shield should have like 2 screws i think, and a c-clip. remove these and it should come off.

btw: im going at this with the helmes, hope this helps any.

krazy

buckfittyone

ok can someone show me where the wheel bearing would be on this pic

buckfittyone

also how hard was it to remove the front axel bolt because its impossible to take mine off

BROOD

Remove the spindle/hub assembly from the car. Have the hub and wheel bearing pressed out of the spindle. Replace the wheel studs. Repress the hub into the spindle with a new wheel bearing.

cjames235

take it to the dealer and get done. its really easy to do if you have a 30 ton hydrolic press. otherwise gotta pay to get it done. took me about 45 min to do by myself with a press

eg9_black

how I did last time...
you just have to take off the axle bolt and go rent a hub remover from a shop (I got from O'reiley) .. no way you can press the stud out without removing the hub, unless you want to KO it .. the shield also have to be taken off ...
removing axle bolt needs tonnes of strenght, make sure you get a long pipe.. oh yeah, you have to put back you caliper and brakes and rotor ... cause loosing the axle bolt requires someone pressing the brake real hard ... the thing is when you trun the axle bolt, the rim moves also ... no grip, can't turn. .. I had mine replaced ... good luck ..

SIINSI

Need a press for the studs... Use a breaker bar for the axle nut... comes off pretty easily

Miguel

CVC9216

There are two ways:

1)cut the head off the old stud with a cut off wheel, then flatten one side of the new stud and it will go in. A little ghetto, but this way you don't have to press out the hub.

2)Or you can remove the spindle and the hub. It is possible to remove the hub without a press, you just need something that fits inside the bearing, I used a 32mm impact socket, fits perfectly. Then place the socket over the hub and hammer it out. And pray that you bearings are good and don't come apart.

zelifcam

Crazy, I didn't think it had to be all taken apart like that or messing with grinding lug studs etc... I had two studs replaced in the past and I was standing around while my mechanic did it.. he didn't have to take massive stuff apart, etc, I don't believe... He did it while he was swapping an axle for me. I think I'm just going to take it back to them and pay them to do it, however it's done

I'll let everyone know how they did it in this post.

P.S. - Does anyone know the circumstances of this "Trial User" buisness? I can't find any online help or manual on this board about it... When/How do I become a "real user"? This 5-post per day limit is killing me...

P.S.S- Nevermind, I just searched old posts and found out that it is apparently 15 days?! Don't you think this is a little excessive? How about 3 days? I would love to contribute to recent and past topics, but I have to pick them carefully, as I can only post 10 per day...

Peace in the Middle East,
Dougal


[Modified by zelifcam, 6:59 AM 10/4/2002]

thisbugger

you need to get a slide hammer to seperate the hub from the wheel bearing, it kinda looks like a dent puller, it bolts up to you studs and you slide the weight like a dent puller

sshaikh01

i don't think that you can do it.
My stripped my lugs on my 92 teg.
the macanic said that you compress it from the machine shop.
Because it won't clear.
Even though you can cut the back part of the old one, how you gonna get the new one in.

zelifcam

What a retarded *** problem this is. If they had left a notch in the Hub casing where a stud could clear, that would have been great. I'll take it to my mechanic and let you know how they dealt with it, for all future generations to know ;-)

Peace,
Dougal

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

you need to press out the hub....thank god I have a Hubshark

a slide hammer won't work either.

as for the little notch so that the studs can come in and out, accords have them

zelifcam

Got the problem fixed today. Mechanic used a nice big Snap-On slide hammer hooked to a hub adapter that clamped on with my lug nuts, then he slide hammered the thing right in half in 10 seconds, exposing the bearings. Worked great! He just hammered it back on when the stud was replaced. Now it makes some weird sound near 45mph, but that will get resolved tomorrow when I take it back in ;-)

Anyway, I just thought I'd tack this on the thread to bring closure and serve as information for all who may encounter this problem in the future! See if you can rent a slide hammer. It's super easy then.

Peace!,
Dougal Walker
dougalw@mail.com


[Modified by zelifcam, 1:51 AM 10/11/2002]

BROOD

It makes noise because the wheel bearings are not reuseable after the hub is pressed out. You need to have the wheel bearing replaced with a new one. The orientation of the races and the ball bearings is incorrect now.


[Modified by SLPR, 6:17 AM 10/15/2002]

TurBoXBirD16

i think somebody should write a help instructions webpage
coz so many people got into difficulties with this stud change thing

BROOD

This should kinda cover how I take care of wheel bearing, lower ball joints, and wheel studs. It is kinda long though. Just look through it good first there may be some typos.

Removing the Spindle Assemblies
1.Raise the front wheels on the car and place on jack stands. Remove wheels and pull out the center cap cover.
2.Use a cold chisel to un-stake the axel nut from the axel spindle.
3.Replace wheels (sans center caps) and lower the car to the ground. Place the car in a drive gear and apply the E brake during braking the axel nuts loose. You could also have a friend apply the brake pedal if you have help.
4.Use a 32 mm 6 point socket and a breaker bar to break the axel nuts loose. A breaker bar extension may be needed to increase the mechanical leverage; a 3-foot or longer length of pipe works well. An air impact gun may also be used with sufficient torque capability and air pressure.
5.Raise the front of the car again and place on jack stands. Remove the wheels.
6.Remove the axel nuts completely from the axel and spray the spline areas with PB Blaster or WD-40.
7.Unbolt the brake line bracket from the steering knuckle. (10mm bolt heads)
8.Remove the cotter pins from the upper ball joint, the lower ball joint, and the tie rod end. Be prepared for months/years or corrosion and dirt. Some PB Blaster or WD-40 soaked around the cotter pins will help. You may even have to drive the pins out with a small punch.
9.Break loose the upper ball joint nut, the lower ball joint nut, and the tie rod end nut. (17mm nuts)
10.Loosen the upper ball joint, the lower ball joint, and the tie rod end nuts. Start off by unthreading the nuts until they are just about off the ball joint stud. Leaving the nuts on there while breaking the joints helps to keep the heavy spindle on the car and off you foot.
Method 1: Use a ball joint separator (AKA: pickle fork) by inserting the fork between the ball joint and control arm. Hit the fork with a hammer to wedge the ball joint apart. This method usually damages the rubber ball joint boot; just keep that in mind.
Method 2: Take the ball joint nuts off completely and put them back for a few threads. Hit the nut a few times with a heavy hammer. Just make sure to reverse the nut so the castle side does not get hit with the hammer. This method takes awhile but does work in a pinch, especially if the ball joints have been broken loose shortly before.
Method 3: Use a ball joint separator that can be found at any auto parts store. There are many styles but these are usually much more kind to the rubber boot than Method 1 and easier than Method 2.
11.Break loose the front brake calipers and use some bale wire or zip ties to hold then out of the way. Avoid letting them hang by the brake lines. Remove the brake pads and caliper brackets from the spindle assembly.
12.Break loose the lower strut fork bolts (17mm and 14mm bolts) and remove from the car. You can leave the struts in place if you wish.
13.Remove the ball joint nuts (17mm nuts) and pull the ball joints out of place.
14.Use a hammer to help the axel spline out of the wheel hubs. Use a brass hammer, plastic hammer, wood block, etc to avoid damaging axel end.
15.Pull entire assembly away from the car carefully. Clean and inspect the parts before moving to the next step. Clean off any grease, dirt, and grime that will get in the way of the repair work. Look for any signs of cracks or bent spindles.

Stripping down the spindle/hub assemblies
1.Break loose the brake rotor screws with an impact screwdriver if necessary. Remove the brake rotors form the assembly.
2.Remove the axel dust rings on the inboard side of the wheel bearings. A screwdriver will pry them out just fine. Save rings for later.
3.Remove the dust shield screws with a screwdriver and pair of Vice-Grips. Stick the screwdriver through the rotor screw holes in the wheel hub and work it into the shield screw. At the same time clamp the Vice-Grip around the screw head and turn both screwdriver and Vice-Grip to break the screws loose.
4.The dust shield can be removed by cutting the thin strip section away from the main part of the shield. This way the shield can be removed or installed without the hub having to be pressed out every time. You could opt to leave the shield out but in the event of a CV joint exploding its grease all over…you may loose braking ability. Just plan to put the shield back on.
5.Set up the spindle in a mechanical press with the wheel hub facing down. The brake caliper points and spindle body can be used for base points. Use a press tool to push the hub out of the wheel bearing. The direction should be from inboard to outboard. The hub will obviously not come out the opposite way. Part of the wheel bearing will usually come out with the wheel hub. This will be removed later.
6.Remove the spindle assembly from the machine press and spray the retainer ring (located on the outboard side of the wheel bearing, under the wheel hub) with PB Blaster or WD-40. Remove this retainer ring from the spindle and save for later.
7.Set up the spindle in a mechanical press in the same direction as earlier. The brake caliper points and spindle body can be used for base points. Use a press tool to push the wheel bearing out of the spindle. The direction should be from inboard to outboard. The bearing will obviously not come out the opposite way. With the retainer ring removed the wheel bearing can be pressed out easily.
8.Remove the spindle assembly from the press.
9.Use a bearing separator on the wheel hub to remove the remaining bearing race. The splitter is tightened under the race and the hub can be removed by using the mechanical press.
10.The wheel studs can also be pressed out from the wheel hub. You can use the mechanical press or a few good hammer blows should take care of them.
11.Clamp the spindle assembly to the press structure and rest on the brake caliper mounts.
12.Remove the rubber dust boots from the lower ball joints.
13.Find a tool or an impact socket to fit over the ball joint stud.
14.Hit this tool with a 3-5 pound min-sledge until the lower ball joint is knocked out of the spindle.

Well it is apart by now installation is the reverse of removal.


**dang that is long **


[Modified by SLPR, 8:09 AM 10/15/2002]

zelifcam

You're right, SLPR, they're not reusable. I just found this out I took the car back to my mechanic and they pulled it all out with a HubTamer and pressed a new bearing pack in. That ended up costing $242.00 for a damn stripped lug stud! Come on!

Anyway, I also had my brake rotors turned and new front upper control arms are going to be installed on Friday due to the ball joint going bad. (Nasty creaking sound)

P.S. - Thanks a lot for that procedure! That looks pretty close to how my mechanic did it when I was watching him. You're very knowledgeable, are you a Honda technician or something?, I'm impressed! Also, where in IL are you?



[Modified by zelifcam, 2:41 PM 10/15/2002]

vrrodri

If you must take it out, spray some liquid wrench on it, then hammer out from the inside.
If you are installing a new one, it must be hammered/pressed in.

If you cannot get it out, you can always cut it off and install a new one!

It sounds though as if you need to remove the brake disc completely out first then remove the stud.
V

BROOD

I know isn't it horrible? That is why I do most of the workb ut even then it still costs at least $50 per bearing. Makes you think about taking care of those threads while removing/installing wheels doesn't it?

No I'm not a Honda Mech. Let's just say the best knowledge is from experience...and I have had alot of that. Yet I'm always in the learning process...at least until I die. I kinda from all over upper IL...I grew up south of Joliet, work in the Burbs, and live alittle further west. Confusing huh?