Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch
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Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch
H-t'ers,
Need some help:
Before I run any wiring i want to be sure that this diagram is correct...
Please let me know if something looks wrong or what needs to be done to make it work right.
TIA
Need some help:
Before I run any wiring i want to be sure that this diagram is correct...
Please let me know if something looks wrong or what needs to be done to make it work right.
TIA
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Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch (SlepT ej6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlepT ej6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H-t'ers,
Need some help:
Before I run any wiring i want to be sure that this diagram is correct...
Please let me know if something looks wrong or what needs to be done to make it work right.
TIA </TD></TR></TABLE>
It can be alot easier then that. Just run the wire from the switch up to the dis block and have your starter and the shore wire from your fuse block go to the dis block. Keep the long wire running from the fuse block over the alt as is. That is how I did mine and it seems to work
Need some help:
Before I run any wiring i want to be sure that this diagram is correct...
Please let me know if something looks wrong or what needs to be done to make it work right.
TIA </TD></TR></TABLE>
It can be alot easier then that. Just run the wire from the switch up to the dis block and have your starter and the shore wire from your fuse block go to the dis block. Keep the long wire running from the fuse block over the alt as is. That is how I did mine and it seems to work
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So your saying I have extra steps on mine? Do you think it will still work...? I'm having a lil trouble following what your saying about the long wire and the alt...
Anyone else?
Thank you!
Anyone else?
Thank you!
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Re: (SlepT ej6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlepT ej6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your saying I have extra steps on mine? Do you think it will still work...? I'm having a lil trouble following what your saying about the long wire and the alt...
Anyone else?
Thank you!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have two wires going to your fuse block. The one is short and goes to the battery take that and put it to your dis block. The other wire is long and is tied into the harness and runs over to your alt. If you break the power to the fuse block the wire going to the alt will not have power and will shut the car off.
Anyone else?
Thank you!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have two wires going to your fuse block. The one is short and goes to the battery take that and put it to your dis block. The other wire is long and is tied into the harness and runs over to your alt. If you break the power to the fuse block the wire going to the alt will not have power and will shut the car off.
#5
Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch (SlepT ej6)
Does anyone know how to do this but have another switch that can disable the switch in the rear of the car for a daily driver purpose?
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Re: (Big Teggie)
This is the way i did mine, and i works fine, I guess it depends wether or not your kill switch has separte little poles for the alternator wire, wich mine did!!!
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Re: (tepid1)
The way my switch is the 2 poles are the same as eachother on oppiste sides the same way the pic is, I guess that would just require a test light to see how your switch functions!!!
#14
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Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch (SlepT ej6)
To be honest I'm tired of seeing this question be asked and asked again.
Here it is.... I call it race car power distribution for dummies 101.
Just do it this way.... it works.
Here it is.... I call it race car power distribution for dummies 101.
Just do it this way.... it works.
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Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch (tepid1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To be honest I'm tired of seeing this question be asked and asked again.
Here it is.... I call it race car power distribution for dummies 101.
Just do it this way.... it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That looks like the way I did it except I left my alt going to the relay box.
Here it is.... I call it race car power distribution for dummies 101.
Just do it this way.... it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That looks like the way I did it except I left my alt going to the relay box.
#16
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Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch (underpressure02)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That looks like the way I did it except I left my alt going to the relay box. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The relay that controls your ECU and such is in the relay box. For my understanding the alt will still power that and not kill the car. On top of that how's it going to charge the battery?
That looks like the way I did it except I left my alt going to the relay box. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The relay that controls your ECU and such is in the relay box. For my understanding the alt will still power that and not kill the car. On top of that how's it going to charge the battery?
#17
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Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch (tepid1)
if you cut the power to the blk/yel going to the alternator it wont charge. i see what you are saying. if the alternator is spining and the white wire is still powering the underhood fuse box, it should still power the car(and power the blk/yel, which allows the alt to "turn on"), even with the switch in the off postion.
#19
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Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch (tepid1)
i add'd more to my previous post. lol
i agree with you... the alt does need to go to the bat.
i agree with you... the alt does need to go to the bat.
#20
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Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch (dturbocivic)
You are right and wrong all in the same paragraph Dave....
Even though the alt is spinning doesn't mean that it's charging.
If you remove 14v from the black/yellow wire it cuts the output of the alt. No matter if it feeds the relay box or not. The relay box will deenergize and will cut power to everything else in the car.
Even though the alt is spinning doesn't mean that it's charging.
If you remove 14v from the black/yellow wire it cuts the output of the alt. No matter if it feeds the relay box or not. The relay box will deenergize and will cut power to everything else in the car.
#22
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Anyone ever loop the power lead for your inline pump to the master cut-off? I was thinking about this while installing my Flaming River 2 circuit cutoff. Seems easiest and the pump gets its power from the battery. Car will definetly not run without power at the pump.
#23
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Re: (93LSivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone ever loop the power lead for your inline pump to the master cut-off? I was thinking about this while installing my Flaming River 2 circuit cutoff. Seems easiest and the pump gets its power from the battery. Car will definetly not run without power at the pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I have. I took power from the non-hot side aka the switched side. Actually that's how it is in my car right now except it doesn't exactly cut my Eliminator pump. It cuts off the Aeromotive fuel pump controller which cuts the pump out.
Yes I have. I took power from the non-hot side aka the switched side. Actually that's how it is in my car right now except it doesn't exactly cut my Eliminator pump. It cuts off the Aeromotive fuel pump controller which cuts the pump out.
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Re: (SlepT ej6)
Here is how I set mine up using a heavy duty solenoid/relay.
I used 4 gauge wiring for the battery, alternator, starter, and from the solenoid to the fuse box.
The OEM fusebox is fused so you don't need to add one inline.
With the solenoid, I was able to use a minimal amount of heavy 4 gauge wiring. From the solenoid to the kill switch I used 18 gauge wire.
Modified by Big Teggie at 7:16 PM 5/24/2007
I used 4 gauge wiring for the battery, alternator, starter, and from the solenoid to the fuse box.
The OEM fusebox is fused so you don't need to add one inline.
With the solenoid, I was able to use a minimal amount of heavy 4 gauge wiring. From the solenoid to the kill switch I used 18 gauge wire.
Modified by Big Teggie at 7:16 PM 5/24/2007