SlepT ej6

H-t'ers,

Need some help:
Before I run any wiring i want to be sure that this diagram is correct...




Please let me know if something looks wrong or what needs to be done to make it work right.

TIA

underpressure02

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlepT ej6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H-t'ers,

Need some help:
Before I run any wiring i want to be sure that this diagram is correct...




Please let me know if something looks wrong or what needs to be done to make it work right.

TIA </TD></TR></TABLE>

It can be alot easier then that. Just run the wire from the switch up to the dis block and have your starter and the shore wire from your fuse block go to the dis block. Keep the long wire running from the fuse block over the alt as is. That is how I did mine and it seems to work

SlepT ej6

So your saying I have extra steps on mine? Do you think it will still work...? I'm having a lil trouble following what your saying about the long wire and the alt...

Anyone else?
Thank you!

underpressure02

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlepT ej6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your saying I have extra steps on mine? Do you think it will still work...? I'm having a lil trouble following what your saying about the long wire and the alt...

Anyone else?
Thank you!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have two wires going to your fuse block. The one is short and goes to the battery take that and put it to your dis block. The other wire is long and is tied into the harness and runs over to your alt. If you break the power to the fuse block the wire going to the alt will not have power and will shut the car off.

dblock2x

Does anyone know how to do this but have another switch that can disable the switch in the rear of the car for a daily driver purpose?

SlepT ej6

Just take off the ****.....

BOT: i guess imma probably start wiring tomorrow and hopefully all is fine..

Any other ideas or comments guys?

dblock2x

Im using the moroso switch where the **** isnt readily removeable if removeable at all that I know off.

SlepT ej6

bump for some more info.......

Big Teggie

To anyone still using the stock fuse box in the engine bay, are you running a wire to each terminal from the kill switch, or just one wire?

grand champ

This is the way i did mine, and i works fine, I guess it depends wether or not your kill switch has separte little poles for the alternator wire, wich mine did!!!

tepid1

Your alt and battery need to be on the same pole. As you picture sits you car would still run off of the alt.

grand champ

As Far as i can tell this should be the easiest way to do it if you dont have a kill switch with 4 poles!!!

grand champ

The way my switch is the 2 poles are the same as eachother on oppiste sides the same way the pic is, I guess that would just require a test light to see how your switch functions!!!

tepid1

To be honest I'm tired of seeing this question be asked and asked again.

Here it is.... I call it race car power distribution for dummies 101.



Just do it this way.... it works.

underpressure02

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To be honest I'm tired of seeing this question be asked and asked again.

Here it is.... I call it race car power distribution for dummies 101.



Just do it this way.... it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That looks like the way I did it except I left my alt going to the relay box.

tepid1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That looks like the way I did it except I left my alt going to the relay box. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The relay that controls your ECU and such is in the relay box. For my understanding the alt will still power that and not kill the car. On top of that how's it going to charge the battery?

DaveF

if you cut the power to the blk/yel going to the alternator it wont charge. i see what you are saying. if the alternator is spining and the white wire is still powering the underhood fuse box, it should still power the car(and power the blk/yel, which allows the alt to "turn on"), even with the switch in the off postion.

tepid1

Agreed and I've also mentioned that many times before in other threads.

DaveF

i add'd more to my previous post. lol

i agree with you... the alt does need to go to the bat.

tepid1

You are right and wrong all in the same paragraph Dave....

Even though the alt is spinning doesn't mean that it's charging.

If you remove 14v from the black/yellow wire it cuts the output of the alt. No matter if it feeds the relay box or not. The relay box will deenergize and will cut power to everything else in the car.

DaveF

haha yea im confusing

93LSivic

Anyone ever loop the power lead for your inline pump to the master cut-off? I was thinking about this while installing my Flaming River 2 circuit cutoff. Seems easiest and the pump gets its power from the battery. Car will definetly not run without power at the pump.

tepid1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone ever loop the power lead for your inline pump to the master cut-off? I was thinking about this while installing my Flaming River 2 circuit cutoff. Seems easiest and the pump gets its power from the battery. Car will definetly not run without power at the pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I have. I took power from the non-hot side aka the switched side. Actually that's how it is in my car right now except it doesn't exactly cut my Eliminator pump. It cuts off the Aeromotive fuel pump controller which cuts the pump out.

SlepT ej6

Tepid

and the rest of you too

Big Teggie

Here is how I set mine up using a heavy duty solenoid/relay.

I used 4 gauge wiring for the battery, alternator, starter, and from the solenoid to the fuse box.

The OEM fusebox is fused so you don't need to add one inline.

With the solenoid, I was able to use a minimal amount of heavy 4 gauge wiring. From the solenoid to the kill switch I used 18 gauge wire.




Modified by Big Teggie at 7:16 PM 5/24/2007