Has anybody had to bleed the brakes after changing pads?
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Has anybody had to bleed the brakes after changing pads?
I know that you should never have to bleed the brakes unless you open the system by opening a bleeder or cracking a brake line open. I put new pads and rotors on my Civic today and afterwards the brakes feel very soft and squishy like there is air in the lines. I didn't touch the brake lines at all.
I've changed plenty of brake pads before, but never on this car. Is this normal? The brake hoses looked like they were in good condition, not cracked anywhere.
I've changed plenty of brake pads before, but never on this car. Is this normal? The brake hoses looked like they were in good condition, not cracked anywhere.
#2
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Re: Has anybody had to bleed the brakes after changing pads? (Jizzmaster Zero)
Well did your resovoir ever get low? When you pushed the calipers back in did you notice anything funny?
Maybe caliper is shitty???
Shouldn't have to bleed them but maybe you want to try. Good time to flush the brake fluid and add new.
Maybe caliper is shitty???
Shouldn't have to bleed them but maybe you want to try. Good time to flush the brake fluid and add new.
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Re: Has anybody had to bleed the brakes after changing pads? (sauceja)
pump the brakes, they eventually get stiffer and stiffer, you have to press the caliper out slightly after the pads are on
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Re: Has anybody had to bleed the brakes after changing pads? (spork motorsports)
Yea I did that, they got stiffer after a few pumps before I even drove it.
I drove it about 30 miles today and they are still soft and mushy.
When I pushed the caliper piston back in it went back fine. I had to push it all the way in to get the new pads to fit, which seems normal. Is it possible that the piston is now stuck and can't come back out? I don't think that is the case because I can lock the front brakes up when driving on snow so I'm pretty sure they're working at least a little bit.
I'm stumped???
I drove it about 30 miles today and they are still soft and mushy.
When I pushed the caliper piston back in it went back fine. I had to push it all the way in to get the new pads to fit, which seems normal. Is it possible that the piston is now stuck and can't come back out? I don't think that is the case because I can lock the front brakes up when driving on snow so I'm pretty sure they're working at least a little bit.
I'm stumped???
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what happens when you dont know something is..............
you start eliminating variables.
if its not air in you're lines then.......
it might be ure master cyl, get it tested or get a new one.
you start eliminating variables.
if its not air in you're lines then.......
it might be ure master cyl, get it tested or get a new one.
#10
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Re: (Jizzmaster Zero)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I doubt it's the master cylinder. What are the odds of it going bad while I am installing new brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pretty good. You just shoved a lot of fluid back through it when that is not normal operation.
If you pushed the brake pedal in too far that could have caused a seal to rub and crack. There is a lot of variables and when **** breaks it does it at weird times.
Good Luck.
Pretty good. You just shoved a lot of fluid back through it when that is not normal operation.
If you pushed the brake pedal in too far that could have caused a seal to rub and crack. There is a lot of variables and when **** breaks it does it at weird times.
Good Luck.
#11
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Re: (sauceja)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would I need to bleed them?
It's unnecessary if you're just changing pads and rotors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, tell your brakes that and Im sure they will fix themselves.
Your nastiest fluid is sitting in the caliper itself. So when you push the piston back in, your forcing all that shitty fluid(and what ever is floating in it) back up into your brake lines. That why it is recommended to open the bleeder valve when you are pushing the piston in.
Its possible you have caused a partial blockage of the line or something like that.
*Start off by bleeding the brakes.*
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Re: (spork motorsports)
If your car doesnt have ABS, there is no need to crack the bleeder, just push the caliper piston in. if it has ABS you MUST bleed while compressing the piston or you'll damage the ABS.
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Re: (Jizzmaster Zero)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would I need to bleed them?
It's unnecessary if you're just changing pads and rotors.
Has this happened to anybody else?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This happens all the damn time with those cars. Just drive it and it will get better in about a week. I dont know why.
It's unnecessary if you're just changing pads and rotors.
Has this happened to anybody else?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This happens all the damn time with those cars. Just drive it and it will get better in about a week. I dont know why.
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Re: Has anybody had to bleed the brakes after changing pads? (Jizzmaster Zero)
no noever had to unless you did it the lazy way and opened teh bleeding noze on the caliper.
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Re: Has anybody had to bleed the brakes after changing pads? (mustang5.slow)
i do it the mechanic way
shove a snap-on between the pad and the rotor compress that biznich and remove the pads resurfacing the rotor anyway
shove a snap-on between the pad and the rotor compress that biznich and remove the pads resurfacing the rotor anyway
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