how to install Skunk2 intake manifold on an ls...
09-27-2006, 02:47 PM
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how to install Skunk2 intake manifold on an ls...
im taking out my stock manifold for a skunk2 that i came up on...and i would like to know how to install. if u guys can plz give me some pointers thanx 
09-27-2006, 03:29 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Just register at hondahookup.com and
download the free PDF service manual.
Everyone's gonna tell you "Just unbolt everything"
As true as that may be, the manual helps ALOT.
download the free PDF service manual.
Everyone's gonna tell you "Just unbolt everything"
As true as that may be, the manual helps ALOT.
09-27-2006, 03:50 PM
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Re: (importdude2000)
Bad idea. Those manifolds are desgned for GSR/ITR and make more power from 7000-10000 rpms. You're going to lose power, especially without a tune.
09-27-2006, 03:54 PM
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Re: (shutupnskate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutupnskate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bad idea. Those manifolds are desgned for GSR/ITR and make more power from 7000-10000 rpms. You're going to lose power, especially without a tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree
tune+cams+gsr tranny
=not bad
i agree
tune+cams+gsr tranny
=not bad
09-27-2006, 06:31 PM
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Re: (HoUTX98GSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutupnskate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bad idea. Those manifolds are desgned for GSR/ITR and make more power from 7000-10000 rpms. You're going to lose power, especially without a tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong!
Skunk2 makes manifolds just for the LS. Your talking about the JE manifold. And yes I know the skunk2 design was based off of the itr mani.
http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...e86dc
Wrong!
Skunk2 makes manifolds just for the LS. Your talking about the JE manifold. And yes I know the skunk2 design was based off of the itr mani.
http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...e86dc
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09-27-2006, 06:32 PM
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Re: (00IntegrAllmotoR)
To OP this is based off of a blox but should help out alot.
<U>BLOX Intake Manifold Install for a 1995 Acura Integra GSR</U>
I am making this write-up because there is a real lack of quality information on the install of the BLOX Intake Manifold on H-T. Additionally, the BLOX IM does not come with any type of instructions at all. A lot of the “official” IM posts do not have all the information needed and I found in my installation there is some misinformation out there too. This install is for a BLOX IM but it should also work for the Skunk2 IM from what I have seen, as they are relatively the same. Below are the parts needed for this install. All these parts are recommended for a COMPLETE install, not a half-assed job.
Parts needed:
-BLOX Intake Manifold
-New intake manifold gasket (Honda #17105-P72-004 or Hondata gasket)
-New throttle body gasket – (Honda #16176-P30-004)
-(3) M6x1.00x22mm bolts (for fuel rail)
-(2) M6x1.00x2 inch bolts (for fuel filter relocation)
-(6) M8x1.25x50mm studs (for intake manifold)
-Air intake from Integra Type R (OEM or aftermarket)
-3/8” x 3’ of coolant line
-5/16” x 3’ of vacuum hose
-1/4” I.D. Vacuum line for charcoal canister
-Chipped P28 ECU
-(Optional) Piece of angle iron to mount EVAP purge solenoid
I recommend buying and installing the below throttle cable parts so that your throttle cable is not sticking up with the stock one.
-(Optional) Integra Type R throttle cable (Honda #17910-ST7-R01)
-(Optional) Integra Type R throttle wire stay (Honda #16411-P73-000)
-(Optional) Non-GSR B or D-series throttle body pulley and spring
1. First uninstall and remove the stock intake manifold/gasket. I did this with the engine out of the car. I can’t imagine how difficult this is to do with it in the car, but people do it all the time so good luck to you. The IM gasket can be difficult to get off. I used some heat from a propane torch and it worked great or there are liquid gasket removers that you can get at car repair stores also. I found it easier to remove the gasket with the IM studs removed. To do this put 2 bolt on the stud, tighten them together, and then loosen the stud by using the inner nut.
2. I started by installing the new, longer studs to replace the top 6 stock studs. I used a Hondata IM gasket and with this gasket those studs were too short. I only got maybe 2 turns on each nut. The lower 4 studs are long enough for the whole nut to thread on.
3. You want to extend the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) wires about 3-4 inches before you install the IM. These are the only wires that need to be extended or messed with.
4. Run a new vacuum line from the PCV valve upwards. Leave it long so that you can cut it to length later.
5. (Optional) If you are using the ITR throttle cable, you should install the non-GSR throttle plate and spring onto your stock TB now. It is straightforward but can be difficult because of the spring so it is best to do it while out of the car.
If you use a throttle plate from a B18A (and possibly more engines) it has an ear-shaped throttle plate. When using this plate on the GSR TB, the adjusting screw needs to be adjusted out because it will be holding the TB open a tiny bit. When I got my car running I could not get my idle to go down. I had no vacuum leaks or anything. It turns out that this set screw was holding the TB open a bit. You may have to further adjust this screw when the car is running to get it just right.
Adjust the non-adjustable screw <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsmilep.gif" BORDER="0"> . Loosen the 7mm nut and then adjust the screw with a small allen key (I forget the exact size)
6. Remove the throttle body from the stock IM and install it using a new gasket to the BLOX IM (14 ft. lbs.)
7. Remove the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) from the stock IM. Next, it is a good idea to clean the IACV because if dirty it can negatively effect your idle or even trigger a check engine light and ECU code. Clean the IACV with some carb cleaner by spraying it inside the 2 air holes. Spray for a good 30 seconds and then spray out with an air compressor for about 2 minutes to make sure no moisture resides in it. Then install it on the BLOX IM insuring the O-ring is used (16 ft. lbs.)
10. Remove the fuel rail and injectors from the stock IM. Install the injectors into the BLOX IM by first setting the gaskets into the manifold and then pushing the injectors into the IM. Then install the fuel rail onto the injectors using the (3) M6x1.00x22mm bolts (8 ft. lbs.). DO NOT use the stock brown spacers between the fuel rail and IM. Also, the stock 3 studs on your GSR IM will not work. They are not threads down long enough.
11. (Optional) Remove the stock throttle cable and install the ITR throttle cable.
12. Bolt the BLOX intake manifold to the head using the IM gasket (17 ft. lbs.)
13. Run new coolant lines from the head to the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV), FITV to IACV, and IACV to the head. Also connect the line coming from the PVC to the top vacuum outlet.
14. The EVAP purge solenoid does not have a place to bolt to the new manifold. Because of this it can be mounted to the firewall, which would involve extending the wires to it, or mounting it close to the stock location. I chose the later using a piece of angle iron and I did not have to extend the wires. Also, bolt the Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor to the new manifold.
15. Run new vacuum lines from the IM to the fuel pressure regulator. Also, reconnect the fuel return line. Then run a vacuum hose from the IM to the bottom nipple on the EVAP purge solenoid. Then run one from the top nipple on the EVAP purge solenoid to the charcoal canister. You will also need to replace the stock vacuum line coming from the charcoal canister to the throttle body. It is a tight fit, so use a longer one.
16. Connect the 4 electrical plugs to the 4 sensors on the IM (EVAP purge solenoid, IACV, IAT, TPS).
17. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle cable bracket using the throttle cable holder. Adjust cable accordingly.
18. The stock fuel line feed line is too short stock. If you try connecting it to the IM it will be overstretched and will be touching the intake arm. I have searched on Honda-Tech for a solution and some people have suggested using a 1999-2000 Civic SI fuel feed line. THIS DOES NOT WORK! I bought it from the dealer and it is the same exact length and the GSR one. So, until I find a longer fuel line I have pushed the fuel filter away from the firewall. This gives the fuel line more slack so that it does not touch the intake arm. I used longer bolts to hold the filter on and used some nuts as spacers. Although this looks ghetto it is much safer than having your fuel line spring a leak from rubbing against the intake and being overstretched.
19. Install the Type R intake. A LS intake will also fit but after buying one I have learned that a LS intake is about ¼” smaller in diameter than the GSR TB. Therefore a Type R intake should be used. The stock GSR intake arm will not fit because it is meant to be bent downward to connect to the lower GSR IM. I also used a zip-tie temporarily to give the fuel feed line additional room.
20. Install P28 chipped ECU. This seems like an often missed part of this modification. This new manifold does not have butterflies in it as well as the IAB sensor on it. The stock ECU will give a code because this sensor is not connected. Also, I have heard of dips in power around the time the butterflies would open because the ECU still thinks they are there. Make the most out of this IM mod and get a chipped P28 ECU to use with it.
DONE!
Feel free to let me know if any corrections need to be made. I am in no way perfect <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsmilep.gif" BORDER="0"> . I hope this is helpful for you all.
[i]Modified by Honda Hick at 10:52 PM
<U>BLOX Intake Manifold Install for a 1995 Acura Integra GSR</U>
I am making this write-up because there is a real lack of quality information on the install of the BLOX Intake Manifold on H-T. Additionally, the BLOX IM does not come with any type of instructions at all. A lot of the “official” IM posts do not have all the information needed and I found in my installation there is some misinformation out there too. This install is for a BLOX IM but it should also work for the Skunk2 IM from what I have seen, as they are relatively the same. Below are the parts needed for this install. All these parts are recommended for a COMPLETE install, not a half-assed job.
Parts needed:
-BLOX Intake Manifold
-New intake manifold gasket (Honda #17105-P72-004 or Hondata gasket)
-New throttle body gasket – (Honda #16176-P30-004)
-(3) M6x1.00x22mm bolts (for fuel rail)
-(2) M6x1.00x2 inch bolts (for fuel filter relocation)
-(6) M8x1.25x50mm studs (for intake manifold)
-Air intake from Integra Type R (OEM or aftermarket)
-3/8” x 3’ of coolant line
-5/16” x 3’ of vacuum hose
-1/4” I.D. Vacuum line for charcoal canister
-Chipped P28 ECU
-(Optional) Piece of angle iron to mount EVAP purge solenoid
I recommend buying and installing the below throttle cable parts so that your throttle cable is not sticking up with the stock one.
-(Optional) Integra Type R throttle cable (Honda #17910-ST7-R01)
-(Optional) Integra Type R throttle wire stay (Honda #16411-P73-000)
-(Optional) Non-GSR B or D-series throttle body pulley and spring
1. First uninstall and remove the stock intake manifold/gasket. I did this with the engine out of the car. I can’t imagine how difficult this is to do with it in the car, but people do it all the time so good luck to you. The IM gasket can be difficult to get off. I used some heat from a propane torch and it worked great or there are liquid gasket removers that you can get at car repair stores also. I found it easier to remove the gasket with the IM studs removed. To do this put 2 bolt on the stud, tighten them together, and then loosen the stud by using the inner nut.
2. I started by installing the new, longer studs to replace the top 6 stock studs. I used a Hondata IM gasket and with this gasket those studs were too short. I only got maybe 2 turns on each nut. The lower 4 studs are long enough for the whole nut to thread on.
3. You want to extend the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) wires about 3-4 inches before you install the IM. These are the only wires that need to be extended or messed with.
4. Run a new vacuum line from the PCV valve upwards. Leave it long so that you can cut it to length later.
5. (Optional) If you are using the ITR throttle cable, you should install the non-GSR throttle plate and spring onto your stock TB now. It is straightforward but can be difficult because of the spring so it is best to do it while out of the car.
If you use a throttle plate from a B18A (and possibly more engines) it has an ear-shaped throttle plate. When using this plate on the GSR TB, the adjusting screw needs to be adjusted out because it will be holding the TB open a tiny bit. When I got my car running I could not get my idle to go down. I had no vacuum leaks or anything. It turns out that this set screw was holding the TB open a bit. You may have to further adjust this screw when the car is running to get it just right.
Adjust the non-adjustable screw <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsmilep.gif" BORDER="0"> . Loosen the 7mm nut and then adjust the screw with a small allen key (I forget the exact size)
6. Remove the throttle body from the stock IM and install it using a new gasket to the BLOX IM (14 ft. lbs.)
7. Remove the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) from the stock IM. Next, it is a good idea to clean the IACV because if dirty it can negatively effect your idle or even trigger a check engine light and ECU code. Clean the IACV with some carb cleaner by spraying it inside the 2 air holes. Spray for a good 30 seconds and then spray out with an air compressor for about 2 minutes to make sure no moisture resides in it. Then install it on the BLOX IM insuring the O-ring is used (16 ft. lbs.)
10. Remove the fuel rail and injectors from the stock IM. Install the injectors into the BLOX IM by first setting the gaskets into the manifold and then pushing the injectors into the IM. Then install the fuel rail onto the injectors using the (3) M6x1.00x22mm bolts (8 ft. lbs.). DO NOT use the stock brown spacers between the fuel rail and IM. Also, the stock 3 studs on your GSR IM will not work. They are not threads down long enough.
11. (Optional) Remove the stock throttle cable and install the ITR throttle cable.
12. Bolt the BLOX intake manifold to the head using the IM gasket (17 ft. lbs.)
13. Run new coolant lines from the head to the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV), FITV to IACV, and IACV to the head. Also connect the line coming from the PVC to the top vacuum outlet.
14. The EVAP purge solenoid does not have a place to bolt to the new manifold. Because of this it can be mounted to the firewall, which would involve extending the wires to it, or mounting it close to the stock location. I chose the later using a piece of angle iron and I did not have to extend the wires. Also, bolt the Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor to the new manifold.
15. Run new vacuum lines from the IM to the fuel pressure regulator. Also, reconnect the fuel return line. Then run a vacuum hose from the IM to the bottom nipple on the EVAP purge solenoid. Then run one from the top nipple on the EVAP purge solenoid to the charcoal canister. You will also need to replace the stock vacuum line coming from the charcoal canister to the throttle body. It is a tight fit, so use a longer one.
16. Connect the 4 electrical plugs to the 4 sensors on the IM (EVAP purge solenoid, IACV, IAT, TPS).
17. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle cable bracket using the throttle cable holder. Adjust cable accordingly.
18. The stock fuel line feed line is too short stock. If you try connecting it to the IM it will be overstretched and will be touching the intake arm. I have searched on Honda-Tech for a solution and some people have suggested using a 1999-2000 Civic SI fuel feed line. THIS DOES NOT WORK! I bought it from the dealer and it is the same exact length and the GSR one. So, until I find a longer fuel line I have pushed the fuel filter away from the firewall. This gives the fuel line more slack so that it does not touch the intake arm. I used longer bolts to hold the filter on and used some nuts as spacers. Although this looks ghetto it is much safer than having your fuel line spring a leak from rubbing against the intake and being overstretched.
19. Install the Type R intake. A LS intake will also fit but after buying one I have learned that a LS intake is about ¼” smaller in diameter than the GSR TB. Therefore a Type R intake should be used. The stock GSR intake arm will not fit because it is meant to be bent downward to connect to the lower GSR IM. I also used a zip-tie temporarily to give the fuel feed line additional room.
20. Install P28 chipped ECU. This seems like an often missed part of this modification. This new manifold does not have butterflies in it as well as the IAB sensor on it. The stock ECU will give a code because this sensor is not connected. Also, I have heard of dips in power around the time the butterflies would open because the ECU still thinks they are there. Make the most out of this IM mod and get a chipped P28 ECU to use with it.
DONE!
Feel free to let me know if any corrections need to be made. I am in no way perfect <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsmilep.gif" BORDER="0"> . I hope this is helpful for you all.
[i]Modified by Honda Hick at 10:52 PM
09-27-2006, 06:54 PM
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Re: (00IntegrAllmotoR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00IntegrAllmotoR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wrong!
Skunk2 makes manifolds just for the LS. Your talking about the JE manifold. And yes I know the skunk2 design was based off of the itr mani.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the info.
Wrong!
Skunk2 makes manifolds just for the LS. Your talking about the JE manifold. And yes I know the skunk2 design was based off of the itr mani.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the info.
09-30-2006, 08:08 AM
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Re: how to install Skunk2 intake manifold on an ls... (bigplayj17)
Here are a few links that may help...I just installed a Victor-X recently.
http://diy.prostreetonline.com...id=43
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682550
You may run into issues so I am including some tips below based on my experience with my GS-R.
*IM Bracket Removal: You will need a very long extension to reach it from under the car. Even if you do reach it, getting the bolts off will be a bitch. You CAN get the IM off with the bracket attached but it's also tough - you need to unbolt the bracket from the chassis. That's what I did because trying it from under the car ended up stripping one bolt.
*Throttle Cable Hood Clearance: I went to a metal fab shop and had them cut a V-shape out of the bracket and weld to the top and bottom pieces together. I then smoothed and polished it up and painted it. This reduced the height of the bracket and changed the angle of the cable from about 45 deg above horiz to about 10 deg. I have no clearnace issue now - the cable is a little tight but cable play is to spec (3/8-1/2in) and works perfectly.
*Idle Problems: I threw a P0505 code whenever my fan kicked on at soptlights. This was resolved with a base idle adjustment per Helms procedure (warm up engine till fan goes on, unplug EVAP and IACV connectors, turn idle screw until about 500 rpm, turn off engine, plug in connectors and reset ECU. Probably a good idea to clean out IACV with carb cleaner too while you have it out.
Also recheck all vacuum connections when done and label all connectors before starting. GL.
http://diy.prostreetonline.com...id=43
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682550
You may run into issues so I am including some tips below based on my experience with my GS-R.
*IM Bracket Removal: You will need a very long extension to reach it from under the car. Even if you do reach it, getting the bolts off will be a bitch. You CAN get the IM off with the bracket attached but it's also tough - you need to unbolt the bracket from the chassis. That's what I did because trying it from under the car ended up stripping one bolt.
*Throttle Cable Hood Clearance: I went to a metal fab shop and had them cut a V-shape out of the bracket and weld to the top and bottom pieces together. I then smoothed and polished it up and painted it. This reduced the height of the bracket and changed the angle of the cable from about 45 deg above horiz to about 10 deg. I have no clearnace issue now - the cable is a little tight but cable play is to spec (3/8-1/2in) and works perfectly.
*Idle Problems: I threw a P0505 code whenever my fan kicked on at soptlights. This was resolved with a base idle adjustment per Helms procedure (warm up engine till fan goes on, unplug EVAP and IACV connectors, turn idle screw until about 500 rpm, turn off engine, plug in connectors and reset ECU. Probably a good idea to clean out IACV with carb cleaner too while you have it out.
Also recheck all vacuum connections when done and label all connectors before starting. GL.
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