Engine removal, 2000 Accord, f23a1
05-07-2006, 06:22 PM
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Engine removal, 2000 Accord, f23a1
I have a 2000 Accord with what appears to be a broke ring, I am either going to swap in a low milage pullout engine or build the one I have.
My question is can this engine come out the top, or does it have too go out the bottom?
I have never pulled a fwd engine or transaxle, nor even researched it. I have been building pretty hot v-8 engine for decades though so I am not totally clueless.
Pulling everything out the bottom just seems wrong too me.
Where can I get a pullout engine if I decide to go that route, I am told they are plentifull.
My question is can this engine come out the top, or does it have too go out the bottom?
I have never pulled a fwd engine or transaxle, nor even researched it. I have been building pretty hot v-8 engine for decades though so I am not totally clueless.
Pulling everything out the bottom just seems wrong too me.
Where can I get a pullout engine if I decide to go that route, I am told they are plentifull.
05-07-2006, 06:24 PM
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Re: Engine removal, 2000 Accord, f23a1 (Ratfink)
i have pulled out the engne out of my 1992 and 1997 out of the top of the car. I just pulled off the hood and the rest was pretty simple. i had the engine of the car in 40 min. even though yours is a 2000 i dont see why the engine cant come out of the top
05-07-2006, 06:29 PM
#3
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Re: Engine removal, 2000 Accord, f23a1 (Ratfink)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ratfink »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 2000 Accord with what appears to be a broke ring, I am either going to swap in a low milage pullout engine or build the one I have.
My question is can this engine come out the top, or does it have too go out the bottom?
I have never pulled a fwd engine or transaxle, nor even researched it. I have been building pretty hot v-8 engine for decades though so I am not totally clueless.
Pulling everything out the bottom just seems wrong too me.
Where can I get a pullout engine if I decide to go that route, I am told they are plentifull.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can take it out of the bottom if you remove the lower half sub-frame. And just raise the car off of the engine (works best if you have a lift.)
My question is can this engine come out the top, or does it have too go out the bottom?
I have never pulled a fwd engine or transaxle, nor even researched it. I have been building pretty hot v-8 engine for decades though so I am not totally clueless.
Pulling everything out the bottom just seems wrong too me.
Where can I get a pullout engine if I decide to go that route, I am told they are plentifull.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can take it out of the bottom if you remove the lower half sub-frame. And just raise the car off of the engine (works best if you have a lift.)
05-07-2006, 09:11 PM
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It seems to me that of the engine can come out the top it will be easier, am I wrong?
I have pretty much every type of equipment you can imagine except for a lift. I am a machinist by trade, and have been building competition pro gas BBC engines as well as pro gas bike engines for eons now.
This is the first time I will have ever messed with a Honda car engine, or pretty much any 4 cylinder car engine for that matter but the wifey loves this car so here we go.
Will I be better of building my engine or getting a pullout JDM or the like?
Is there another engine that is plug and play that could provide better performance? I am not interested in getting crazy or doing any custom tuning or the like, but if there is something that will drop right in and plug and play with minimal mods what the hell.
I have pretty much every type of equipment you can imagine except for a lift. I am a machinist by trade, and have been building competition pro gas BBC engines as well as pro gas bike engines for eons now.
This is the first time I will have ever messed with a Honda car engine, or pretty much any 4 cylinder car engine for that matter but the wifey loves this car so here we go.
Will I be better of building my engine or getting a pullout JDM or the like?
Is there another engine that is plug and play that could provide better performance? I am not interested in getting crazy or doing any custom tuning or the like, but if there is something that will drop right in and plug and play with minimal mods what the hell.
05-08-2006, 05:13 AM
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Re: (Ratfink)
it comes out much easier from the bottom. I've taken mine out from the top and from the bottom, and the bottom is much smoother.
you don't need a lift. unbolt everything except the L&R motor mounts, then lower the engine down onto a dolly. unbolt the 2 motor mounts then hook the engine hoist up to the CAR and lift the car up off the motor. reinstall the same way.
an H22 will fit, but it's NOT plug & play in the 6th gen there is a lot of wiring involved as well as fabrication on the DS motor mount and power steering.
you don't need a lift. unbolt everything except the L&R motor mounts, then lower the engine down onto a dolly. unbolt the 2 motor mounts then hook the engine hoist up to the CAR and lift the car up off the motor. reinstall the same way.
an H22 will fit, but it's NOT plug & play in the 6th gen there is a lot of wiring involved as well as fabrication on the DS motor mount and power steering.
05-08-2006, 05:54 AM
#6
In a Junkyard near you.
Re: (notoriousB)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it comes out much easier from the bottom. I've taken mine out from the top and from the bottom, and the bottom is much smoother.
you don't need a lift. unbolt everything except the L&R motor mounts, then lower the engine down onto a dolly. unbolt the 2 motor mounts then hook the engine hoist up to the CAR and lift the car up off the motor. reinstall the same way.
an H22 will fit, but it's NOT plug & play in the 6th gen there is a lot of wiring involved as well as fabrication on the DS motor mount and power steering.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did something similar to that with my civic.
I removed everything except the side mounts like you said, lowered the engine/ trans onto a box pallate and raised the car off of the engine with the lift, then used the engine hoist to put the new engine in place and hold it till it was bolted to the tranny.
When you go from the top you have to wiggle and finaggle the engine and everything into place and line up the holes, keep lines from being cut, put your leg behind your head... just a lot of hassle.
you don't need a lift. unbolt everything except the L&R motor mounts, then lower the engine down onto a dolly. unbolt the 2 motor mounts then hook the engine hoist up to the CAR and lift the car up off the motor. reinstall the same way.
an H22 will fit, but it's NOT plug & play in the 6th gen there is a lot of wiring involved as well as fabrication on the DS motor mount and power steering.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did something similar to that with my civic.
I removed everything except the side mounts like you said, lowered the engine/ trans onto a box pallate and raised the car off of the engine with the lift, then used the engine hoist to put the new engine in place and hold it till it was bolted to the tranny.
When you go from the top you have to wiggle and finaggle the engine and everything into place and line up the holes, keep lines from being cut, put your leg behind your head... just a lot of hassle.
05-08-2006, 06:17 AM
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Re: Engine removal, 2000 Accord, f23a1 (Ratfink)
Note:
* Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces
* To avoid damage, unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion.
* Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses, or interfere with other parts.
alright
1 Secure teh hood in the open position.
2 Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio
3 Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then the positive terminal
4 Remove the intake air duct
5 Fix the hood in the vertical position by using a support rod
6 Disconnect the battery cables from the under - hood fuse/relay box
7 disconnect the all connectors from the under-hood fuse/relay box
8 Remove the throttle cable and cruise control cable by loosing the locknuts then slipping the cable ends out of the accelerator linkage. Take care not to bend the cable when removing them. Always replace any kinked cables with a new one.
9 Relieve fuel pressure
10 Remove the fuel feed hose and fuel return hose
11 Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, Evaporative Emission(EVAP) canister hose, vacuum hoses and P/S hose clamp
12 Remove the power steering mounting bolt and belt without disconnecting the P/S hoses.
13 Remove the Alternator belt
14 Disconnect the Engin Control module (ECM) Powertrain control module (PCM) connectors from the ECM/PCM
15 Remove the grommet, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors.
16 Disconnect the engine wire harness connectors on the right side of the engine compartment.
17 Remove the starter cable, Wire harness clamp, ground cable and back-up light switch connectors
18 remove the shift cable and select cable. Take care not to bedn the cable (M/T)
19 Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T)
20 Remove the rear engine mount bracket mounting bolt/nut
21 Remove the rear stiffener (A/T)
22 Remove the fron engine mount bracket mounting bolts, and loosen the mount bolt
23 Remove the radiator cap.
24 Raise the hoist to full height. or jack whatever
25 Remove the front tires/wheels.
26 Remove the splash shield.
27 Loosen the drain plugh in the radiator to drain the engine coolant
28 Drain transmission Fluid
29 Drain engine Oil
30 Lower the hoist, then remove the upper/lower radiator hose
31 Remove the ATF cooler hoses, then plug the ATF cooler hoses and lines
32 Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses
33 Make sure the hoist supports are positioned correctly on the vehicle. Raise the hoist to full height. (if you are using jack you know what you are doing)
34 Remove Exhost pipe from the engine (in between cat-manif)
35 Remove the bolts securing the shift cable holder, then remove the shift cable cover. To prevent damage to the control lever joint, be sure to remove the bolts securing the shift cable holder before removing the bolts securing the shift cable cover (A/T)
36 Remove the lock bolt securing the control lever, then remove the shift cable with the control lever.
37 Remove the damper fork
38 Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints
39 Remove the driveshafts. Coat all precision finished surfaces with clean engine oil. Tie plastic bags over the driveshaft ends.
40 Remove the rear engine mount bracket.
41 Remove the flange bolts securing the radius rods.
42 Mark the front beam and rear beam then remove the front beam
43 Lower the hoist.
44 Attach the chain hoist to the engine
45 Remove the ground cable and the stopper then remove the upper bracket (front driver's side engine mount)
46 Remove the transmission mount bracket
47 Check that the engine/transmission is completly free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses, and electrical wiring
48 slowly lower the engine about 150 mm (6 in). check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission.
49 Lower the engine all the way. Remove the chain hoist from the engine.
50 Remove the engine from under the vehicle.
If there is any typo's pls forgive me
* Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces
* To avoid damage, unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion.
* Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses, or interfere with other parts.
alright
1 Secure teh hood in the open position.
2 Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio
3 Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then the positive terminal
4 Remove the intake air duct
5 Fix the hood in the vertical position by using a support rod
6 Disconnect the battery cables from the under - hood fuse/relay box
7 disconnect the all connectors from the under-hood fuse/relay box
8 Remove the throttle cable and cruise control cable by loosing the locknuts then slipping the cable ends out of the accelerator linkage. Take care not to bend the cable when removing them. Always replace any kinked cables with a new one.
9 Relieve fuel pressure
10 Remove the fuel feed hose and fuel return hose
11 Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, Evaporative Emission(EVAP) canister hose, vacuum hoses and P/S hose clamp
12 Remove the power steering mounting bolt and belt without disconnecting the P/S hoses.
13 Remove the Alternator belt
14 Disconnect the Engin Control module (ECM) Powertrain control module (PCM) connectors from the ECM/PCM
15 Remove the grommet, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors.
16 Disconnect the engine wire harness connectors on the right side of the engine compartment.
17 Remove the starter cable, Wire harness clamp, ground cable and back-up light switch connectors
18 remove the shift cable and select cable. Take care not to bedn the cable (M/T)
19 Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T)
20 Remove the rear engine mount bracket mounting bolt/nut
21 Remove the rear stiffener (A/T)
22 Remove the fron engine mount bracket mounting bolts, and loosen the mount bolt
23 Remove the radiator cap.
24 Raise the hoist to full height. or jack whatever
25 Remove the front tires/wheels.
26 Remove the splash shield.
27 Loosen the drain plugh in the radiator to drain the engine coolant
28 Drain transmission Fluid
29 Drain engine Oil
30 Lower the hoist, then remove the upper/lower radiator hose
31 Remove the ATF cooler hoses, then plug the ATF cooler hoses and lines
32 Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses
33 Make sure the hoist supports are positioned correctly on the vehicle. Raise the hoist to full height. (if you are using jack you know what you are doing)
34 Remove Exhost pipe from the engine (in between cat-manif)
35 Remove the bolts securing the shift cable holder, then remove the shift cable cover. To prevent damage to the control lever joint, be sure to remove the bolts securing the shift cable holder before removing the bolts securing the shift cable cover (A/T)
36 Remove the lock bolt securing the control lever, then remove the shift cable with the control lever.
37 Remove the damper fork
38 Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints
39 Remove the driveshafts. Coat all precision finished surfaces with clean engine oil. Tie plastic bags over the driveshaft ends.
40 Remove the rear engine mount bracket.
41 Remove the flange bolts securing the radius rods.
42 Mark the front beam and rear beam then remove the front beam
43 Lower the hoist.
44 Attach the chain hoist to the engine
45 Remove the ground cable and the stopper then remove the upper bracket (front driver's side engine mount)
46 Remove the transmission mount bracket
47 Check that the engine/transmission is completly free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses, and electrical wiring
48 slowly lower the engine about 150 mm (6 in). check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission.
49 Lower the engine all the way. Remove the chain hoist from the engine.
50 Remove the engine from under the vehicle.
If there is any typo's pls forgive me
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05-08-2006, 02:06 PM
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Re: Engine removal, 2000 Accord, f23a1 (Ratfink)
I located a pullout engine locally with 34k miles for $850, the engine is listed as a non ULEV; good price?
How do I know if mine is the non ULEV? The car has LEV plainly listed in the passenger window so I am assuming it is non ULEV?
Isn't the ULEV version the f23a4?
How do I know if mine is the non ULEV? The car has LEV plainly listed in the passenger window so I am assuming it is non ULEV?
Isn't the ULEV version the f23a4?
05-09-2006, 02:08 AM
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I have already found a replacement engine so no worries there.. but I still can't diagnose exactly what is wrong with the engine in the car. Here is a brief synopsis of what went down and what I know...
The car has 170k miles, all stock, no issues too date. Driving along on the highway normally, 60 ish mph and the car had a definite miss that went away after about 15-20 seconds. I didn't notice any smoke or noises other than the miss at this time.
A few miles down the road I stopped at a red light and accelerated away and the miss came back and the car blew a huge cloud of white/grey smoke kind of like you'd expect too see from a severely blown head gasket.
Drove home taking it easy.. no overheating or any abnormal issue.
Got home and started trying too diagnose.. cooloant level full and clean, cooling system passes pressure check, oil level a tad over full and clean, all four cylinders blow 180 psi, all four plugs very slightly oily, no noises at idle and it idles cleanly and smooth. Rev the engine under load and it will emmit a nice cloud of smoke and have a slight miss, if you pull out the dipstick at idle you can hear a "gurgle" not present without removing the dipstick.
I once saw a car that accidentally got a gallon or two of diesel fuel smoke and act exactly like this one, but this tank of gas already has 100 miles on it and the problem came up suddenly so I have ruled this out.
No blown head gasket as everything pressure checks fine.
I first thought popped ring land or broke ring, but all four holes blow 180 psi.
Now I'm just puzzled what the hell is actually wrong, I'd hate to pull the engine and replace it just too find out it was something stupid.
The car has 170k miles, all stock, no issues too date. Driving along on the highway normally, 60 ish mph and the car had a definite miss that went away after about 15-20 seconds. I didn't notice any smoke or noises other than the miss at this time.
A few miles down the road I stopped at a red light and accelerated away and the miss came back and the car blew a huge cloud of white/grey smoke kind of like you'd expect too see from a severely blown head gasket.
Drove home taking it easy.. no overheating or any abnormal issue.
Got home and started trying too diagnose.. cooloant level full and clean, cooling system passes pressure check, oil level a tad over full and clean, all four cylinders blow 180 psi, all four plugs very slightly oily, no noises at idle and it idles cleanly and smooth. Rev the engine under load and it will emmit a nice cloud of smoke and have a slight miss, if you pull out the dipstick at idle you can hear a "gurgle" not present without removing the dipstick.
I once saw a car that accidentally got a gallon or two of diesel fuel smoke and act exactly like this one, but this tank of gas already has 100 miles on it and the problem came up suddenly so I have ruled this out.
No blown head gasket as everything pressure checks fine.
I first thought popped ring land or broke ring, but all four holes blow 180 psi.
Now I'm just puzzled what the hell is actually wrong, I'd hate to pull the engine and replace it just too find out it was something stupid.
05-09-2006, 05:06 AM
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Re: (Ratfink)
Wow that's a weird one. I would personally have a leakdown test done to pinpoint the problem. My guess is leaky valves or valve seats but that's a guess.
$850 for a 34k F23 is WAY too high. I got a 30K F23 delivered to my door for $400.
Check out http://www.car-part.com to find motors local to you.
If it is a head problem it will be your call as to whether or not to fix or replace the motor. If you can find a low milage motor for cheap it still might be more cost effective than repairs.
ULEV = F23a4
LEV = F23a1
-B
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