2000 accord misfire.. Crankshaft sensor??
03-07-2006, 06:20 AM
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2000 accord misfire.. Crankshaft sensor??
Hello... more problems with this POS accord....
Notorious B: I changed the plugs to some colder ones... helped for 3 days... I do have a bad o2 sensor, and a TDC code, and a crankshaft positions sensor is going off too.... I talked to my tuner and he said to replace the Crank sensor.... does this sound right? The spark timing is fluxuating at idle 4 degrees, 10-14. What do you think? I'm ready to junk this piece of ****......
Thanks
Notorious B: I changed the plugs to some colder ones... helped for 3 days... I do have a bad o2 sensor, and a TDC code, and a crankshaft positions sensor is going off too.... I talked to my tuner and he said to replace the Crank sensor.... does this sound right? The spark timing is fluxuating at idle 4 degrees, 10-14. What do you think? I'm ready to junk this piece of ****......
Thanks
03-07-2006, 09:43 AM
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Re: 2000 accord misfire.. Crankshaft sensor?? (Shwanky420)
misfire huh? have you done a compression test to verify that it's not actually a low comp. cylinder causing the misfire?
holy hell you have a lot of codes going there. what are you running right now for fuel management? stock ECU + piggyback?
what heat range plugs are you running? I recommend NGK ZFR7F-11
so if you hold the timing light at idle it's bouncing to either side of the red line and not hitting it directly? I forget, w/ our cars & the stock ECU do you have to pin something out to make it hold 12 exactly? I have my idle set to around 15* on the AEM EMS but when I sync the timing I have to set all cells to 12* to make it stay right there for the light.
am I following this right, you're getting all of the following codes?
TDC
CPS
O2
misfire
Do you have access to another distributor you could install to try out? The TDC code could come from a faulty disti, and if you're getting a TDC code the CPS readings could be screwed up from that.
I feel you on "ready to junk this piece of ****" - my turbo seals just crapped out AGAIN yesterday morning on my way to work. I'm fully pissed off. Hang in there man...
holy hell you have a lot of codes going there. what are you running right now for fuel management? stock ECU + piggyback?
what heat range plugs are you running? I recommend NGK ZFR7F-11
so if you hold the timing light at idle it's bouncing to either side of the red line and not hitting it directly? I forget, w/ our cars & the stock ECU do you have to pin something out to make it hold 12 exactly? I have my idle set to around 15* on the AEM EMS but when I sync the timing I have to set all cells to 12* to make it stay right there for the light.
am I following this right, you're getting all of the following codes?
TDC
CPS
O2
misfire
Do you have access to another distributor you could install to try out? The TDC code could come from a faulty disti, and if you're getting a TDC code the CPS readings could be screwed up from that.
I feel you on "ready to junk this piece of ****" - my turbo seals just crapped out AGAIN yesterday morning on my way to work. I'm fully pissed off. Hang in there man...
03-08-2006, 05:52 AM
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Re: 2000 accord misfire.. Crankshaft sensor?? (notoriousB)
NotoriusB:
First of all, Thank you for your input.
-I have done a comp test and everything is perfect
-Im using stock ECU and Piggyback UNTIL i get this piece of **** running (then im putting in the AEM EMS
- I am using those plugs- took em out, white crusty **** on the ground (lean?)
-Not familiar witth the timing light.... I plugged it into the "Solus" a souped up OBD11 reader... thats where i got the timing.
-Wow and as far as codes go, i'm getting 2 TDC codes which are linked to the misfire, and 2 O2 codes. The guy looked up one of the specific codes and said it was coming from the CPS. I do have another Dist. I beleieve... off from my old head, which was working before I melted the piston in cylinder 1.....
-I am sorry to hear about your seals! but hey at least you can rev past 3000rpm
First of all, Thank you for your input.
-I have done a comp test and everything is perfect
-Im using stock ECU and Piggyback UNTIL i get this piece of **** running (then im putting in the AEM EMS
- I am using those plugs- took em out, white crusty **** on the ground (lean?)
-Not familiar witth the timing light.... I plugged it into the "Solus" a souped up OBD11 reader... thats where i got the timing.
-Wow and as far as codes go, i'm getting 2 TDC codes which are linked to the misfire, and 2 O2 codes. The guy looked up one of the specific codes and said it was coming from the CPS. I do have another Dist. I beleieve... off from my old head, which was working before I melted the piston in cylinder 1.....
-I am sorry to hear about your seals! but hey at least you can rev past 3000rpm
03-08-2006, 03:16 PM
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Re: 2000 accord misfire.. Crankshaft sensor?? (Shwanky420)
try checking your timing with a light, maybe that solus thing wasn't getting a good reading.
if your plugs are white and crusty something's definitely not right, probably lean, don't drive it much till you get that figured out!!
I'd try that other disti if you have it available, just to rule that out before you start changing the crank sensors. In my opinion it's very likely that the CPS sensor itself is not the problem.
what piggyback are you using? are you sure it's configured right?
another thing to try, if it's easy for you (don't know the specifics of your setup), remove the piggyback, install the stock ECU and stock injectors and see if you still get the codes. (obviously don't drive the car like this but start it and check for codes)
That will at least tell you if it's related to your aftermarket stuff, or if the motor truely has a problem.
Yeah I can rev past 3k rpm but the people behind me wouldn't be able to see anything!! I can't even drive the car right now. But a little bit of good news for me: I did a compression test and the motor's solid. It's just the turbo seals for sure, thank god.
if your plugs are white and crusty something's definitely not right, probably lean, don't drive it much till you get that figured out!!
I'd try that other disti if you have it available, just to rule that out before you start changing the crank sensors. In my opinion it's very likely that the CPS sensor itself is not the problem.
what piggyback are you using? are you sure it's configured right?
another thing to try, if it's easy for you (don't know the specifics of your setup), remove the piggyback, install the stock ECU and stock injectors and see if you still get the codes. (obviously don't drive the car like this but start it and check for codes)
That will at least tell you if it's related to your aftermarket stuff, or if the motor truely has a problem.
Yeah I can rev past 3k rpm but the people behind me wouldn't be able to see anything!! I can't even drive the car right now. But a little bit of good news for me: I did a compression test and the motor's solid. It's just the turbo seals for sure, thank god.
03-08-2006, 04:29 PM
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when I see people post what a POS their accord is...the first thing that I ask myself is how is the car taken care of? In this case I am sure that it cannot be that well since the OP is talking about changing plugs to cooler ones, piggy backing the ECU and talking about adding other stuff? Do you realize this thing is a family car? ahha it isn't going to last a long time if you mod it too much or abuse it.....
The more ponies you try to extract out of it the sooner it will die
the same goes for driving it hard.
The more ponies you try to extract out of it the sooner it will die
the same goes for driving it hard.
03-09-2006, 05:15 AM
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Re: (YeuEmMaiMai)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you realize this thing is a family car? ahha it isn't going to last a long time if you mod it too much or abuse it....</TD></TR></TABLE>
his car is turbocharged and has a built motor. what does being a "family car" have to do with anything at all?
if you don't have any intelligent or technical information to add please don't say anything at all.
his car is turbocharged and has a built motor. what does being a "family car" have to do with anything at all?
if you don't have any intelligent or technical information to add please don't say anything at all.
03-09-2006, 05:25 AM
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Re: (notoriousB)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
his car is turbocharged and has a built motor. what does being a "family car" have to do with anything at all?
if you don't have any intelligent or technical information to add please don't say anything at all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I love dumbasses that come in here calling thier accord a POS because it keeps breaking down....only to find out that they have heavily modified the car
nice going bud............. obviously you are not going to get the accord's rock solid reliability out of that car now are you?
Crap, should have saved your dough and gotten a faster car to start with like a mustang or camaro maybe? I would have gotten a Caprice Classic with a LT1 motor in it myself...............
havn't you wondered why no one has posted any advice in this thread? ahahah it's pretty obvious if you ask me.....you are in the accord forum, you come in bitching about the reliabilit of your car....the rest of us read it and say to ourselves "wow, what a moron"
Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 8:39 AM 3/9/2006
his car is turbocharged and has a built motor. what does being a "family car" have to do with anything at all?
if you don't have any intelligent or technical information to add please don't say anything at all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I love dumbasses that come in here calling thier accord a POS because it keeps breaking down....only to find out that they have heavily modified the car
nice going bud............. obviously you are not going to get the accord's rock solid reliability out of that car now are you?
Crap, should have saved your dough and gotten a faster car to start with like a mustang or camaro maybe? I would have gotten a Caprice Classic with a LT1 motor in it myself...............
havn't you wondered why no one has posted any advice in this thread? ahahah it's pretty obvious if you ask me.....you are in the accord forum, you come in bitching about the reliabilit of your car....the rest of us read it and say to ourselves "wow, what a moron"
Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 8:39 AM 3/9/2006
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03-09-2006, 05:40 AM
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Re: (YeuEmMaiMai)
oh here we go again with the name calling. good response my man.
if we wanted reliability we wouldn't have turbocharged our cars in the first place. who mentioned reliable anyway? not either of us.
our choices have no bearing on your existance so take your unwanted opinions elsewhere.
last time I checked this was not "stock-honda-tech.com". I can tell you've never bothered to venture into the forced induction forum here, as you'd never make it out with your close-minded opinions and obvious lack of knowledge on the topic.
now if you're done calling us names please either offer some on-topic technical advise to shwankey or go ***** some other thread and leave us alone.
thanks so much.
if we wanted reliability we wouldn't have turbocharged our cars in the first place. who mentioned reliable anyway? not either of us.
our choices have no bearing on your existance so take your unwanted opinions elsewhere.
last time I checked this was not "stock-honda-tech.com". I can tell you've never bothered to venture into the forced induction forum here, as you'd never make it out with your close-minded opinions and obvious lack of knowledge on the topic.
now if you're done calling us names please either offer some on-topic technical advise to shwankey or go ***** some other thread and leave us alone.
thanks so much.
03-09-2006, 05:49 AM
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Re: (notoriousB)
read what I said before you open your pie hole.....you might learn something
If you come in here bitching about your "POS Accord", you are not going to get much help...........thanks for taking to uderstand a cocept that a 2 year old can easily grasp........
If he thinks his car is a POS, then he should trade it for a better car...........
If the poster would have come in asking for help without bitching about a car that they made unreliable by modifying it, he would have gotten a lot more help...........
**** happens when you extract more power from a stock engine......get used to it...........
If you come in here bitching about your "POS Accord", you are not going to get much help...........thanks for taking to uderstand a cocept that a 2 year old can easily grasp........
If he thinks his car is a POS, then he should trade it for a better car...........
If the poster would have come in asking for help without bitching about a car that they made unreliable by modifying it, he would have gotten a lot more help...........
**** happens when you extract more power from a stock engine......get used to it...........
03-09-2006, 05:59 AM
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Re: (YeuEmMaiMai)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you come in here bitching about your "POS Accord", you are not going to get much help...</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're not offering any help by stating your opinions either, so you're no better than us. please leave this thread to people who know what they're talking about.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** happens when you extract more power from a stock engine...</TD></TR></TABLE>
your reading skills are obviously no better than mine, as if you'd take the time to read you might have noticed that he and I both have BUILT MOTORS. Not stock motors.
Again, thanks for contributing nothing of worth to this thread.
Shwankey, I'm here to help, don't mind angry Robert here who has nothing better to do with his time except knock on other people's projects.
you're not offering any help by stating your opinions either, so you're no better than us. please leave this thread to people who know what they're talking about.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** happens when you extract more power from a stock engine...</TD></TR></TABLE>
your reading skills are obviously no better than mine, as if you'd take the time to read you might have noticed that he and I both have BUILT MOTORS. Not stock motors.
Again, thanks for contributing nothing of worth to this thread.
Shwankey, I'm here to help, don't mind angry Robert here who has nothing better to do with his time except knock on other people's projects.
03-09-2006, 06:03 AM
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Re: (notoriousB)
no body is knocking his project...........it's his attitude that sucks...........again don't come in here bitching about your accord being a pos when it's your fault...................
03-09-2006, 06:04 AM
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Re: 2000 accord misfire.. Crankshaft sensor?? (Shwanky420)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello... more problems with my accord....
Notorious B: I changed the plugs to some colder ones... helped for 3 days... I do have a bad o2 sensor, and a TDC code, and a crankshaft positions sensor is going off too.... I talked to my tuner and he said to replace the Crank sensor.... does this sound right? The spark timing is fluxuating at idle 4 degrees, 10-14. What do you think?
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's what he should have said...............
Notorious B: I changed the plugs to some colder ones... helped for 3 days... I do have a bad o2 sensor, and a TDC code, and a crankshaft positions sensor is going off too.... I talked to my tuner and he said to replace the Crank sensor.... does this sound right? The spark timing is fluxuating at idle 4 degrees, 10-14. What do you think?
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's what he should have said...............
03-09-2006, 06:17 AM
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Re: (YeuEmMaiMai)
Well First of all I have to say something that I was thinking the whole time I was reading through all these posts; Notorious - You are the man and thank you for your help! I'm sorry if i have to vent a little bit here, but this really rubs me the wrong way.
Notorious ACTUALLY knows what the hell he is talking about and your only f'in argument is that an accord is a family car. While your trying to be a cocky bastard and wasting all of our time, he as actually trying to help out, which if I remember correctly is what this site is for.... And yes, if we wanted reliable cars, we certainly wouldnt turbocharge them. As far as I am concerned you have absolutely no credentials in the technical aspect of anything, instead you sound like someones mother.
Now I dont want to be too much of a hypocrite so back to the actual topic.
Notorious: I think I have figured out the misfire. Like I said i had two TDC codes thrown so I thought i would start there. I popped a new Dist. in the car and no misfires yet. I'm not running any boost yet but i'm going to crank it back up today and see what happens. As far is the car running lean, i think i will plug it into the wideband and do a few runs with it I richened it up with the AFC for a little more comfort (even though it is hard to find with that thing). I'm going to go pull the plugs and check it out right now... maybe something has changed... I do have a bad O2 sensor but should that be whats leaning it out?
Notorious ACTUALLY knows what the hell he is talking about and your only f'in argument is that an accord is a family car. While your trying to be a cocky bastard and wasting all of our time, he as actually trying to help out, which if I remember correctly is what this site is for.... And yes, if we wanted reliable cars, we certainly wouldnt turbocharge them. As far as I am concerned you have absolutely no credentials in the technical aspect of anything, instead you sound like someones mother.
Now I dont want to be too much of a hypocrite so back to the actual topic.
Notorious: I think I have figured out the misfire. Like I said i had two TDC codes thrown so I thought i would start there. I popped a new Dist. in the car and no misfires yet. I'm not running any boost yet but i'm going to crank it back up today and see what happens. As far is the car running lean, i think i will plug it into the wideband and do a few runs with it I richened it up with the AFC for a little more comfort (even though it is hard to find with that thing). I'm going to go pull the plugs and check it out right now... maybe something has changed... I do have a bad O2 sensor but should that be whats leaning it out?
03-09-2006, 06:25 AM
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Re: (Shwanky420)
By the way Notorious, I thought you should know that the tuners at F1Dyno (www.f1dyno.com) Look to your posts on here whenever they have a honda related issue. Good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge, I think you help more people out then you know
03-09-2006, 07:49 AM
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Re: (Shwanky420)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Notorious: I think I have figured out the misfire. Like I said i had two TDC codes thrown so I thought i would start there. I popped a new Dist. in the car and no misfires yet. I'm not running any boost yet but i'm going to crank it back up today and see what happens. As far is the car running lean, i think i will plug it into the wideband and do a few runs with it I richened it up with the AFC for a little more comfort (even though it is hard to find with that thing). I'm going to go pull the plugs and check it out right now... maybe something has changed... I do have a bad O2 sensor but should that be whats leaning it out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice! glad to hear it may have just been the dizzy! Tearing down to the CPS isn't fun.
Yeah, comfort and AFC shouldn't be mentioned in the same sentance when talking about boost. Definitely strap the WB on there and see what's going on, I wouldn't want to lose that motor just because it's a little lean.
O2 sensor should not be leaning it out at all. If anything I would expect it to richen the mixture. You definitely should replace that O2 asap, preferably before any tuning, because once you throw a good o2 in there it could screw your tune up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By the way Notorious, I thought you should know that the tuners at F1Dyno (www.f1dyno.com) Look to your posts on here whenever they have a honda related issue. Good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge, I think you help more people out then you know </TD></TR></TABLE>
well that's very nice to hear, thanks!! I do my best to help out, I don't want to see people make the same mistakes I already have made. It feels good that at least some people appreciate the information I'm sharing.
I wish I was a little closer to Portland, as I'd consider going there to tune my car (once I get the turbo repaired of course). There's only 1 dyno right nearby my area, and they guy who runs hasn't been very friendly to me when I've tried to talk to him.
Once I'm back up and running maybe I can swing up that way and check out your car and the F1 guys this summer.
One last note re: calling your car a POS. People obviously do not understand the level of time, money, blood, sweat, and tears (lots of tears) that go into creating a project of this magnitude. If they had gone through the problems (and money) we have, they might understand the frustration we both feel at times. When the car runs right it's wonderful and happy, but when it decides to crap out, it's quite frustrating.
My car is a POS (and every other name in the book) and it hates my guts, but I still love it!!
nice! glad to hear it may have just been the dizzy! Tearing down to the CPS isn't fun.
Yeah, comfort and AFC shouldn't be mentioned in the same sentance when talking about boost. Definitely strap the WB on there and see what's going on, I wouldn't want to lose that motor just because it's a little lean.
O2 sensor should not be leaning it out at all. If anything I would expect it to richen the mixture. You definitely should replace that O2 asap, preferably before any tuning, because once you throw a good o2 in there it could screw your tune up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By the way Notorious, I thought you should know that the tuners at F1Dyno (www.f1dyno.com) Look to your posts on here whenever they have a honda related issue. Good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge, I think you help more people out then you know </TD></TR></TABLE>
well that's very nice to hear, thanks!!
I do my best to help out, I don't want to see people make the same mistakes I already have made. It feels good that at least some people appreciate the information I'm sharing.I wish I was a little closer to Portland, as I'd consider going there to tune my car (once I get the turbo repaired of course). There's only 1 dyno right nearby my area, and they guy who runs hasn't been very friendly to me when I've tried to talk to him.
Once I'm back up and running maybe I can swing up that way and check out your car and the F1 guys this summer.
One last note re: calling your car a POS. People obviously do not understand the level of time, money, blood, sweat, and tears (lots of tears) that go into creating a project of this magnitude. If they had gone through the problems (and money) we have, they might understand the frustration we both feel at times. When the car runs right it's wonderful and happy, but when it decides to crap out, it's quite frustrating.
My car is a POS (and every other name in the book) and it hates my guts, but I still love it!!
03-09-2006, 08:01 AM
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Re: (notoriousB)
Definately... Its quite the love hate relationship my car and I have going on right now. You should definately come up sometime, the guys at F1 are really nice, very enthusiastic, and aren't on any powertrips. Its quite a plesant enviroment.
What is your opinion on the emanage setup? that is with all of the ignition and sensor components... I haven't heard too much about it but I know it works with the f23... Also i know you put I, i believe CP pistons and crower rods in your motor as well, are they a little noisy? just recently i've noticed a little bit of a knocking sound, not really knocking but you hear it and definately know there are some moving parts in there... i hear this is normal with forged pistons... but it wasnt so apparent before.
What is your opinion on the emanage setup? that is with all of the ignition and sensor components... I haven't heard too much about it but I know it works with the f23... Also i know you put I, i believe CP pistons and crower rods in your motor as well, are they a little noisy? just recently i've noticed a little bit of a knocking sound, not really knocking but you hear it and definately know there are some moving parts in there... i hear this is normal with forged pistons... but it wasnt so apparent before.
03-09-2006, 09:51 AM
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Re: (Shwanky420)
emanage is really a glorified piggyback, but does a pretty good job of it. It's a whole lot better than the AFC hack!! 
I've heard some good things about the new emanage ultimate, but I don't have any personal experience with either version.
I considered the emanage route, but after buying all the additional cables and connectors and crap it almost equalled out to the price of the AEM EMS, and with the AEM you don't really have to do any wiring. Plus with the AEM I can quickly swap back in my stock ECU, injectors, and MAP to pass inspection. The emanage *should* be able to pass a computer check without swapping anything around but again, I don't have any personal experience to back that claim up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also i know you put I, i believe CP pistons and crower rods in your motor as well, are they a little noisy? </TD></TR></TABLE>
are they a little noisy? no. they're WICKED noisy!!
My friggin motor sounds like a sewing machine, but holds power like crazy. So yeah, they're loud as hell, clackin' around in there, but I guess that's the price you pay. As long as the motor works and holds power I don't care if it sounds like a horny rooster in a henhouse! Ok, on second thought, maybe <u>that</u> would be rather odd. LOL
If all works out with my car I'll hit you up this summer and try to run up there. It would be cool to meet you and the guys @ F1.
-B
I've heard some good things about the new emanage ultimate, but I don't have any personal experience with either version.I considered the emanage route, but after buying all the additional cables and connectors and crap it almost equalled out to the price of the AEM EMS, and with the AEM you don't really have to do any wiring. Plus with the AEM I can quickly swap back in my stock ECU, injectors, and MAP to pass inspection. The emanage *should* be able to pass a computer check without swapping anything around but again, I don't have any personal experience to back that claim up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also i know you put I, i believe CP pistons and crower rods in your motor as well, are they a little noisy? </TD></TR></TABLE>
are they a little noisy? no. they're WICKED noisy!!
My friggin motor sounds like a sewing machine, but holds power like crazy. So yeah, they're loud as hell, clackin' around in there, but I guess that's the price you pay. As long as the motor works and holds power I don't care if it sounds like a horny rooster in a henhouse! Ok, on second thought, maybe <u>that</u> would be rather odd. LOLIf all works out with my car I'll hit you up this summer and try to run up there. It would be cool to meet you and the guys @ F1.
-B
03-10-2006, 06:02 AM
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Re: (notoriousB)
Well I think I will go with the AEM because I have proof through you that it actually works! I'm glad to hear the noise is normal.... I figured with the forged pistons and all. Just out of curiosity, was it overkill to have my block sleeved ya think? I guess it cant hurt, but no one around here knows what this car can actually make for power and this and that, so I just had it done to be safe... what are you making for whp at this point? I'm not looking to make any records with the F23, but i'd like to see how far I could push it
03-10-2006, 11:48 AM
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Hey B, just out of curiousity, what are your compression readings anyway? I have 8.5-1 CP pistons... on the last build they were at about 225psi, seemed way too high... Now they are all at 170psi... is this normal would ya say???
03-10-2006, 12:27 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was it overkill to have my block sleeved ya think? I guess it cant hurt, but no one around here knows what this car can actually make for power and this and that, so I just had it done to be safe... </TD></TR></TABLE>
definitely NOT overkill. after all I have gone through to date I wish I had just gone ahead and gotten my block sleeved. but I've seen lots of people pushing 400+ hp on stock sleeves so I'm not too worried.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you making for whp at this point? I'm not looking to make any records with the F23, but i'd like to see how far I could push it </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know, my car hasn't cooperated long enough for me to get it tuned and push the envelope a bit. I am shooting for the 330-350 horsepower range. If I get there with my current setup I will be very happy. HOPEFULLY after this turbo is repaired (again) I can get on a dyno and crank up the boost.
What turbo are you running on your setup? With the parts you have and PROPER fuel management (read: get rid of that ******* AFC. LOL) you should be good to 350-400 easily. I think the limiting factor will be the cylinder head in your setup. The SOHC head can only flow so much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey B, just out of curiousity, what are your compression readings anyway? I have 8.5-1 CP pistons... on the last build they were at about 225psi, seemed way too high... Now they are all at 170psi... is this normal would ya say???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well that's hard to say because every compression tester gives different readings.
I just did a cold comp test on my motor to be sure that the bottom end is OK before spending another dime and my readings all came out to ~210 or so, which surprised the crap out of me because the engine was dead cold.
As long as the comp. readings are all within 5% or so of each other you're in good shape.
definitely NOT overkill. after all I have gone through to date I wish I had just gone ahead and gotten my block sleeved. but I've seen lots of people pushing 400+ hp on stock sleeves so I'm not too worried.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you making for whp at this point? I'm not looking to make any records with the F23, but i'd like to see how far I could push it
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't know, my car hasn't cooperated long enough for me to get it tuned and push the envelope a bit. I am shooting for the 330-350 horsepower range. If I get there with my current setup I will be very happy. HOPEFULLY after this turbo is repaired (again) I can get on a dyno and crank up the boost.
What turbo are you running on your setup? With the parts you have and PROPER fuel management (read: get rid of that ******* AFC. LOL) you should be good to 350-400 easily. I think the limiting factor will be the cylinder head in your setup. The SOHC head can only flow so much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey B, just out of curiousity, what are your compression readings anyway? I have 8.5-1 CP pistons... on the last build they were at about 225psi, seemed way too high... Now they are all at 170psi... is this normal would ya say???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well that's hard to say because every compression tester gives different readings.
I just did a cold comp test on my motor to be sure that the bottom end is OK before spending another dime and my readings all came out to ~210 or so, which surprised the crap out of me because the engine was dead cold.
As long as the comp. readings are all within 5% or so of each other you're in good shape.
03-10-2006, 01:25 PM
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Excellent, I'm glad I didnt just throw out a grand on the sleeves.... eheh, so now to the turbo.... yea it needs to go just as much as the AFC does... Sadly enough i'm running a junk Garett t25bb.... I know i cant make any power with it and that was actually my next question... Where to get a t3 manifold for the F23? and what turbo to go with? A t3 would be a nice upgrade but im looking for something a little bigger... perhaps a hybrid or GT35. The powerband on the t25 is a joke and I might as well be driving a stock 1.8t jetta 
03-13-2006, 05:20 AM
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yikes t25? well props on spending your money where it counts first (bottom end) then looking upward from there.
there aren't many manifolds available - drag, fmax, or sfp.net makes a tubular mani for the F23. those are the only reputible ones i'm aware of. they all have a t3 inlet flange which will let you run a t3, t3t04 hybrid, sc series, etc...
there aren't many manifolds available - drag, fmax, or sfp.net makes a tubular mani for the F23. those are the only reputible ones i'm aware of. they all have a t3 inlet flange which will let you run a t3, t3t04 hybrid, sc series, etc...
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