dis

I have a 1992 Accord, it has 138,000 miles on it and it is a great running car. Last night we were driving to the store and i noticed that when I came to a stop at an intersection the oil light started to turn on, dim at first then the light was getting stronger. When I hit the gas pedal, since we were at our destination, the light went off completely. When I went to park has I started to slow down the oil light started again. I checked the oil level and it seemed fine, we did our shopping, leaving about an hour and a half later. When we left the light no longer came on. Has we were getting home the light started again, the same has before. This time when I hit the gas pedal the light started flashing. Any clues, or suggestions?

YeuEmMaiMai

time to check the oil pump out before the engine gets toasted. Has the oil been changed recently?

Sounds like the pump is going

BLKFLSH

Could be just the oil pickup screen that's clogged up, it's a common problem. Even if you change your oil regularly, it still gets clogged up over time. (fine screen)

dis

That I know of it is the original oil pump, it is time for an oil change though. What I do not understand though is, why does the oil light at times turn off when you hit the gas pedal. Also when it started to flash at first, I was at a light, and I turned the car off, I turned it on when the light turned green and the light was no on, it did not turn on again and then start to flash until I was almost home.

P_Adams

There was another similar inquiry in here about this same subject. Turned out there was so much sludge buildup in the pan; that it was starting to restrict the oil pump pick-up. The head was pretty well gunked up as well.

P

Schmitey

That's classic low oil pressure bro. Reason the light goes off when you press the gas is pretty self explanatory. At higher RPMs the pump spins faster thus higher pressure. Chances are you gotta take the oil pan off anyways to replace the pump so check for clogs while you're in there...and definitely sooner rather than later. For now just raise the idle by either pressing on the gas yourself or raise it under the hood...oil light is bad!

I'm not that familiar with honda oil pumps but I know on my old eclipse it was more an issue of the housing for the pump wearing down not the pump itself. What that means is you gotta replace the whole front case of the engine if its anything like my eclipse which is not cheap. Best bet is probably a junk yard and find a low mileage car, but like I said I'm not familiar with honda oil pumps.

Schmitey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There was another similar inquiry in here about this same subject. Turned out there was so much sludge buildup in the pan; that it was starting to restrict the oil pump pick-up. The head was pretty well gunked up as well.

P</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why you use good oil, preferably synthetic. Cheap oil like penzoil has a high wax content that will build up over time. On penzoil I've heard of guys not being able to drain a drop of oil out of the pan, or take the valve cover off and there's a layer of sludge remaining on the head molded to the shape of the cover.

P_Adams

There was yet another inquiry in here whereas the question was answered when it was determined the an incident with a parking lot curb had perma-pushed the oil pan bottom up against the pump pick-up, almost completely blocking it off.

Talk about a problem that sucked..............

P

"The Earth MUST suck: why else would there be a perfect Vacuum in space ???"

YeuEmMaiMai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's why you use good oil, preferably synthetic. Cheap oil like penzoil has a high wax content that will build up over time. On penzoil I've heard of guys not being able to drain a drop of oil out of the pan, or take the valve cover off and there's a layer of sludge remaining on the head molded to the shape of the cover.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I am calling totall BS on this my friend. I have NEVER had any oil related problems by using pennzoil or any other off of the shelf name brand oil. I have had cars that lasted in excess of 380K and all of my cars except for the 86 sable made it PAST 150K with most of them getting near 200K My current car is no exception.........

BLKFLSH

Some sludge comes off the screen with differences in oil pressure then some more gets sucked up (doesn't stay clogged the same all the time). It will usually get clogged up easier at low rpm. (cruising at low speed)

Schmitey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am calling totall BS on this my friend. I have NEVER had any oil related problems by using pennzoil or any other off of the shelf name brand oil. I have had cars that lasted in excess of 380K and all of my cars except for the 86 sable made it PAST 150K with most of them getting near 200K My current car is no exception.........</TD></TR></TABLE>

Suit yourself man I'm not gonna waste my time on a useless arguement. I used to sell oil and other parts for a living and I wouldn't put it in my car. You probably use Fram as well...

deserthonda

i have seen like someone else mentioned a car that hit the bottom of the oil pan thus restricting the flow of oil..,,chk for oil pan damage ... if no damage and there is planty of oil, oil looks clean, remove the oil pressure sending unit located above oil filter and do an oil pressure test... if pressure is low ,remove oil pan and chk the screen, if screen is not clugged remove and chk oil pump ,,,if pressure is ok replace the pressure switch ...

deserthonda

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's why you use good oil, preferably synthetic. Cheap oil like penzoil has a high wax content that will build up over time. On penzoil I've heard of guys not being able to drain a drop of oil out of the pan, or take the valve cover off and there's a layer of sludge remaining on the head molded to the shape of the cover.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i personally believe that the key is to replace oil and filter every 3000 miles , i don't feel that it is necessary to use synthetic oil.,,i rather see people change the oil 2 times than spend extra money on synthetic oil .......i got thousands of customers .been coming to my shop for 10 years ,, i have used different brands of oil ( castrol. valvoline, mobil etc etc ) and none of them have any engine issues ,, a lot of them have over 250000 miles a few over 400000 miles ..engine do not use oil or burn oil..

mac_24_seven

iTrader: (1)

slightly OT..

but how low does it have to be for the oil light to come on? i mean, its only 4.5 qts.. and how much oil is left when its on the bottom marker on the dip stick?

YeuEmMaiMai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Suit yourself man I'm not gonna waste my time on a useless arguement. I used to sell oil and other parts for a living and I wouldn't put it in my car. You probably use Fram as well...</TD></TR></TABLE>

And I am not going to waste my cash on something that is totally un-needed. Using regular oil and following the oil change intervil will have NO ADVERSE effect on your engine.........

Schmitey

I run Castrol Synthetic high mileage (pushing 125k miles) and a K&N filter. I've done my homework and that's about as good as money can buy. Because of the cost, the fact that the oil can take it, and a good *** filter I push about 4.5-5k miles. Ends up costing me about the same, less work, and it doesn't do any harm whatsoever to my engine. I personally think, arguably of course, about 75% of it comes down to your filter. You can have the world's best oil and change it every 100 miles but if you just cycle the dirt back through what's the point? I know some people actually just change the filter every 3k miles and reuse the oil...

And I totally agree following the suggested maintenace schedule won't hurt anything. Like I said I'm lazy and have heard bad things about Penzoil...simple as that.

and desert you're still an ***, but one I can put up with at least!

P_Adams

Although I'd never push the envelope enough to purposely test the theory, I'd think the oil pressure sensor would start turning the light on in turns and while braking at any point below 2 quarts. That's the point where the pump pickup gets uncovered from centrifugal force throwing the oil around the pan.
If the light comes on while just sitting there, grab your bank statement 'cuz Bunky, the damage's been done!!

P

YeuEmMaiMai

see my sig................don't use synthetic or anything other than oem honda filter and whatever the honda dealer puts in it.........

BLKFLSH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's why you use good oil, preferably synthetic. Cheap oil like penzoil has a high wax content that will build up over time. On penzoil I've heard of guys not being able to drain a drop of oil out of the pan, or take the valve cover off and there's a layer of sludge remaining on the head molded to the shape of the cover.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard the same thing about Quaker State oil. (don't believe everything I hear). Who said Castrol high mileage was the best money can buy? The people selling you the oil. I'm sure if Honda found that synthetic oil was soooo much better than regular oil, they would recommend using it. Didn't see any such thing in my manual though.

sparknblaze

Just had a h22/h23 swap done in my accord and my oil light is flashing but I notice it not while sitting but through accelleration/braking and turns. I checked the oil and it was fine. I thought it strange since my old engine had never seen the oil light come on at all and I saw a few instances where it was 2 quarts low. How does one do an oil pressure test or check the pressure sending unit?

YeuEmMaiMai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've heard the same thing about Quaker State oil. (don't believe everything I hear). Who said Castrol high mileage was the best money can buy? The people selling you the oil. I'm sure if Honda found that synthetic oil was soooo much better than regular oil, they would recommend using it. Didn't see any such thing in my manual though.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Bingo! all major oils meet the specs that they are supposed to........

P_Adams

You temporarily mount a mechanical oil pressure gauge in place of the electric oil pressure sensor.
It's really a go/no go test for the switch.
The expected oil pressure will be 50psi at 3000rpm
I believe the lamp is set to go off at 8psi

If the lamp comes on, but the pressure is within specs - ****-can the sensor, congratulate yourself for dodging the bullet & get a new one.

If the pressure isn't as it should be, your work is cut out for you.

P

Funkin Flux

updates???

P_Adams

Yes, I Agree. Along with the obvious concert that I'm displaying for his plight, I'd like to keep track of these incidents so we ALL can learn from the experience. Hopefully it didn't end up DOA on the Rt 375 loop.....

P

Ross 2.0

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's why you use good oil, preferably synthetic. Cheap oil like penzoil has a high wax content that will build up over time. On penzoil I've heard of guys not being able to drain a drop of oil out of the pan, or take the valve cover off and there's a layer of sludge remaining on the head molded to the shape of the cover.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I caught that statement a little bit late. That is 100% a typical salesman statement. You make it sound like Pennzoil makes citronella candles on the side or something. And also FYI Fram made Honda's oil filters for a long time (they may still be making them).
I have never seen ANY negative effects of ANY brand name oil on a Honda as long as the propper maintnence was done to the vehicle. I do know of a false advertising suit filed againt castrol for some of the claims they have made on their higher end oils though.
food for thought i guess...