djbrandonr

So I decided to take some pics since I pulled these out the other day and couldnt find any write-ups w/ pics on how to do this. All in all it wasnt that hard (w/ a block out of the car) but sometime its just nice to see pics. BTW my helms was worthless IMO. Perhaps we can this stickie this to the FAQ's as well.

BTW my coochie hurts and I need a 56k beware cause I dont got DSL..lol..j/k

Tools:
Ratchet
10mm and 12mm socket
Flat tip screwdriver
Hammer
Balance Elim. Kit


So heres what were workin to today


First you'll need to remove the crank pully, then this sprocket will be on the shaft, but Im not gonna put it back on just for the pic. I think removing this part was the hardest part of the job..


First is the front balancer. If you look down youll see a hole.


I dropped a screw driver in the hole to keep it from rotating while I loosened the bolt holding the pulley on..


Then the pulley just comes off real easy


Then I removed the bolts around the shaft and the auto tensioner as well


On to the rear balancer. Remove the 2 bolts and one nut


And the housing should come off with the tap of a hammer or pryed w/ a flat tip to look like this


So here we are so far(plus the crank sprocket), we'll come back to the rear shaft pulley is a few. Remove the bolts that hold the oil pump to the block. Should be 4 bolts or so.


Start prying around the housing to free the pump. Just work around it till it pops loose. Remeber as well that the crank/oil pump sprocket is keeping the housing on there tight. Initially I used my screwdriver to pry the sprocket off some. I the stopped and cussed a few chioce words at my Japper ancestors and used the backside of a hammer to pry some more till it was almost at the end.



Now before you get the sprocket totally off you'll need to pull this metal guide out w/ a pair of pliers. If you dont...


You wont be able to get this washer past it as you pull the oil pump off.


With that done we should be able to pull the pump off at least an inch or so. Since we can were gonna pull the rear pulley off similar to the front, only the hole is between the pump and block.

*EDIT* There is actually a bolt to the right on the backside of the block that allows access to the hole in the shaft, but I didnt know till later on. So you can actually remove the pully before prying the housing.


And off it comes


Now we can pull the pump off. If you have yet to remove the lower sprocket fully I found the pump to be a good tool to yank forward and help knock it off the crank. How good that is for the pump I dont know, but it worked.


Now we have acess to the shafts. Theres 2 bolt holding the front shaft in and nothin holding the rear one on.



"Free at last, free at last" Just pull them out



The rear is on the right and front on the left, and now you done.


This took just shy of an hour and prolly would be a bit tougher in the car. Hopefully I dont need to remind you that you should've bought the kit to plug everything up unless your a true DIY'r. Hope this helps and let any posting begin. If I forgot something lemme know.

Modified by djbrandonr at 9:56 PM 11/20/2005


Modified by djbrandonr at 10:48 PM 11/28/2005

SteveoBA8

Good job man, this should be in the Faq's.

92hondalude

dont forget to turn the bearings 180 degrees to plug the oil ports
do you have to get the plugs pushed in by a mechine?

LudeyKrus

Good post

Needs to be thrown in the FAQ's

Hawkze_2.3

Cool, don't forget to show us how the installation of the kit goes.

djbrandonr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hondalude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have to get the plugs pushed in by a mechine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what they say. I dont have the kit yet actually. I just got the block the other day and got al excited for my build here after winter that I just started tare'n **** apart.

bigz187

i know its kind off topic..but what would happen if the balance shaft belt broke?? And could u still drive the car??? Is it possible to remove the belt with the motor still in the car???

EGmikeH22

i removed the belt with the engine in a civic, with the lower timing belt cover on,

yes its possible, just make sure the car is off.

mgags7

i doubt you could do this in car....the shafts probably couldnt fit out.....but it may work...

good post though

high_revs

nice diy...

djbrandonr

All right lets finish this **** off. I finally got a half day off from my 7 day a week jobs.

Okay so you gotta have the balance shaft elim. kit to do this obviously. Now youre gonna need a press of some sort. If you lucky like me to have a neighbor/landlord that just so happens to be a blacksmith that has all the tools in the world you just might have one of these in the garage. Its a press, but doesnt require electricy or air.



First I started w/ the oil pump and the balance shaft plugs. Like so..


Press in the left one


Press in the right



They recommend using loctite sleeve retainer if pressing these plugs into a used oil pump. Then you put on the bling blingin' rear balance shaft gearcase cover and the pump plugs are done.


Now onto the girdle. The ones circled in red need to be removed. Remove the dowel pins sticking out w/ a pair of vise grips. Itll sandwich a bit, but thats okay and twist it till it comes out.




On a side note if your a dumbass like I was, I was all excited about getting going on the kit that I didnt remove the main caps and pulled the first dowel outta the cap and found the plugs didnt fit. That is why. Nick @ kaizen was nice enough t assist me through my own mental retardation...lol...

So remove the one dowel on top and the 3 on the bottom.. Heres they are only to be replaced..


By these..



The big one of the 4 goes in location "C" (see girdle pic) The other 3 are in the "D" spot...hmmm to bad there isnt a "G"spot in this install...lol...

So now we press those in


Till theyre all in like so..


Now plug "C" should be pressed in so that no more than .360" is protruding and "D" is no more than .405" out so that the main caps can seat properly. So I measure..

And its "money Mikey, your so f'n money"


Then I tapped the main caps back on to make sure everything is flush and pressed in far enough


See no gaps in seating


Lastly we need to block an oil passage in the block that runs to one of the shafts.



The top center hole. For reference the back of the block is at the top of the pic and flywheel would be to the right.

So you go in w/ a 11/32 drill bit into the hole. Youre really just reaming the whole out IMO not tearin through mass amounts of metal. Drill till you get to the back of the bearing..

Then you bust out the supplied tap..and yes it really is shiny as excalibur..


You use a 12pt. 10mm socket and tap the hole you just drilled enough to get the supplied plug in. Sealent recommended.


Now you done. Overall this is pretty easy install w/ the block out. You could probably do this w/ the block in, but Im not sure if you could get the shafts out. Difficulty wise its more of a PITA to raise my car up a few inches for winter than it was to do this kit.

DIRTYsouthBB6

There have been a lot of great posts in this forum today, including this one. Now we need the moderators to start adding to the resource threads.

MadCityLude

I sent a request for this to be in FAQs. Damn good writeup bro!

98vtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRTYsouthBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There have been a lot of great posts in this forum today, including this one. Now we need the moderators to start adding to the resource threads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn right, getting back to where we were a few years ago.

Hawkze_2.3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

damn right, getting back to where we were a few years ago.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's all up to us.

I wish I didn't have 56k BS right now so I could see these pics. Looks like an awesome write-up.

Beau Gotti

Pretty Informative. i didnt relize that kit came with all the stuff internally for the motor, i thought it was just the pump plugs. it might acctually be worth dishin out the money for the kit.

great how-to. im about to start tearing down this h22 i have had in teh garage for like 38748724 years and do something with it i guess lol

-Bionic-

My balance shaft belt broke a few weeks ago, and it also damaged the timing belt, so the shop told me to install a new timing belt and not to replace the secondary belt.

Now, I am torn between people telling me to put the balance shaft belt back on, and those telling me to get the kit to completely remove it.

My car is out of commision as it's getting ready for boost, but with turbo and potential vibration...is this a good combination?


Great write up Wish my neighbour had the tools too.

ECX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good post

Needs to be thrown in the FAQ's</TD></TR></TABLE>

del_parker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My balance shaft belt broke a few weeks ago, and it also damaged the timing belt, so the shop told me to install a new timing belt and not to replace the secondary belt.

Now, I am torn between people telling me to put the balance shaft belt back on, and those telling me to get the kit to completely remove it.

My car is out of commision as it's getting ready for boost, but with turbo and potential vibration...is this a good combination?


Great write up Wish my neighbour had the tools too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can run it with just the balance shaft belt removed.

94draglude

Whats the Benifits/Difference between just removing the balance shaft belt or doing the balance shaft elimination kit?

high_revs

more oil pressure becuase none of the oil is being used to lubricate the shafts and less rotational assembly loss.

2lude4u

& less weight on your front end for better balance & acceleration

high_revs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">& less weight</TD></TR></TABLE>

your right, about 22lbs lightwer w/o the shafts and all the crap that runs them

96-EJ6 B18C

Good write-up, thanks for sending me the link.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hondalude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont forget to turn the bearings 180 degrees to plug the oil ports
do you have to get the plugs pushed in by a mechine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No need to rotate the bearings with our kit, the plugs block the oil supply to the bearings.

high_revs

i've been running this kit since january, great stuff