hoya_10fintec

Hey, guys
I'm kind of in a desperate situation to get my car back on the road before it snows, so I would really appreciate it if you could help me.

here are my questions:

1)how the hell do I take the top two piston rings out? 'cause they are jammed in there not wanting to come out.

2)can I use B16 ARP main bolts on a B20?

3)ring end gap specs for a stock B20

4)could I possibly use the molylube(out of ARP product) as an "assembly lube"? I'm asking 'cause I've heard you could but making sure with you guys.

**I have all the parts, tools, and a basic nology on how to position the rings.

Thanks in advance

hoya_10fintec

^^^

hoya_10fintec

anyone?

hoya_10fintec

ttt

nota-eg

I'll bump this one because I want to learn to build my block over the winter.

hoya_10fintec

it'll be fun..

non-VTEC

1. if your top 2 rings are stuck in the piston for any other reason other than carbon build up (which is pretty uncommon in honda engines) chances are those pistons are fucked. either the ring lands are distorted from to much heat from a poor tune or the rings themselves are warped/twisted again from a poor tune.

the top 2 rings should move around freely.....take those pistons to the machine shop and have them inspect them. but i would look at another set of pistons especially for boost. OEM cast pistons tend to melt/crack because they cant take the abuse.

2. you can probably used B16 main bolts in your B20 but i don't see any reason to upgrade your main bolts/studs unless you think your gonna push the crank out the bottom of the block. i think your stock rods will punch holes out the side of the block before you break the main webs. (unless your referring to ARP head studs?)

3. ring gaps for a stock B20 would be different that what you would want on a turbo motor. there going to be larger for sure due to heat expansion. if you search around you will find some specs that work well. but off the top of my head i think top rings should be around .018-.020 and second rings .020-.022 but someone correct me if im wrong.

4. the moly lube that comes with ARP bolts/studs works really well as an assembly lube. its good stuff if you have enough of it.

hope this helps.

hoya_10fintec

Thanks a lot

I already got the piston rings out and yes it was just from carbon build up and maybe from being cold in my garage. It came out so much easier when warm, oh and the main bolts are just a leftover from my parts. I guess I could sell it. Also rod bolts and head bolts/studs.

This is pretty much my winter project staying under 10psi(boost) so I decided not to get pistons and rods. Thanks for your advise tho.

I'm gonna start building it now that I got the lube.

Thanks again!!


Modified by hoya_10fintec at 4:04 PM 10/21/2005

hoya_10fintec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3. ring gaps for a stock B20 would be different that what you would want on a turbo motor. there going to be larger for sure due to heat expansion. if you search around you will find some specs that work well. but off the top of my head i think top rings should be around .018-.020 and second rings .020-.022 but someone correct me if im wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

one more thing.. would it be .0018-.0020 and .0020-.0022? or the spec you said is for turbo application that ppl go with? I'm a lil confused.

Thanks

non-VTEC

those specs i gave you are good for turbo applications (i think). but you should verify with some good expert engine builders to make sure. or just search around here and you will find some proper specs.