Y2Phunk

Hey guys,

G/f's car was in the shop to get some tires mounted and balanced and teh tire guy said her wheel bearings were shot and needed to be replaced. So i told her that i'll do it for her, i've repacked bearings on an Integra and a Civic before....so i dont think the Accord will be that much different or difficult. Any tips before i start taking things apart?

1. What size is the nut to take the rotors off?
2. What brand/kind of grease should i use, im buying new bearings so it should come prepacked with greas correct?

BTW - I did a search and only a few topics came up about it, none really answered my questions.

JimBlake

The bearings are sealed so you don't pack them with grease.

Front bearings will have to be pressed into the steering knuckle. Got a press? If not you can take the knuckle off the car & carry it to a shop where they'll use their press.

Rear bearings are available as part of the hub, not by themselves. That's an easy bolt-in job.

Y2Phunk

It has to be pressed in? I've always used the ghetto method where you just tap it in with a socket that lines up with it.

What size nut is on the axle btw? Im gonna have to pick one up after work.

notoriousB

front axle nut is definitely 36mm, I BELIVE the rear is 32mm but don't quote me on that.

OkieDad

Hi experts:

Any tips on how to remove the outer wheel bearing race from the front hub on a 94-97 Accord 4cyl? Other than the obvious "take it to a shop", that is...

-- CB (newbie to the forum)


Modified by OkieDad at 2:33 PM 7/12/2005

JimBlake

I guess use something like this bearing separator. Clamp it around so it gets behind the bearing cone. Then this provides something you can grab with a puller or slide hammer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...=3979

matt_in_sd

I would first check to verify the bearings are bad. I would be highly doubtful a '99 would need bearings already. Unless they were abused.

OkieDad

Thanks, "JimBlake"!

The HarborFreight separator worked like a charm! Its ID was within a MM or two of the OD of the outer edge of the race, and it fit under a *very small* lip on the outer edge. I had to crank the tool's two bolts very tight, since the separator was forced against the side of the race and not under it. With some sockets as spacers, and a 25-lb steel block as a "hammer" I was able to separate the race enough from the hub to reposition the separator under the race. Only one slightly smashed thumb...

Next is to install the new bearings. Um... how to do that without pressing on the races? Or is "pressing" ok, but "hammering" not?

BTW, this is a 96 Accord DX with 180K miles. The bearings are fine, but the seals are shot - the outer lips are worn paper-thin and cracked. I haven't found a source for seals on these "unitary" bearings. This is part of a complete steering refurb, since the ball joints are way too loose and boots are shot.

James

" would first check to verify the bearings are bad. I would be highly doubtful a '99 would need bearings already. Unless they were abused."

I agree with your opinion and I would want to double check if they need to be replaced before doing anything.

I bet that the shop needs to make some boat payments.

JimBlake

Yeah, Y2Phunk should make sure he's not wasting time on the '99. It seems pretty strange that they ALL would be bad.

Not to be confused with Okie's '96 where the bearing has already been destroyed by pulling the cone out...

jweller

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt_in_sd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would first check to verify the bearings are bad. I would be highly doubtful a '99 would need bearings already. Unless they were abused.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had to replace one on my 99 with only about 85k on it. Wouldn't shock me one bit if a wheel bearing had gone bad.

now all 4 of them........doubtful

b_ron007

you have to have the bearing pressed out by a hydrolic press. i almost broke a vice and a manual hand press trying to do it myself.

OkieDad

Progress on my 96 Accord DX: I installed the new bearing hubs with two 8" C-clamps and a couple of flat plates - tighten the clamps, then tap the tops of the clamps with a hammer to break the "stiction".

BTW... I wouldn't consider the old bearings "ruined" just because the cones came out. I pressed them back in by hand. "Worn out" because of the seals, yes. I do wish they were "repairable" (replace the grease and seals).

Approx what might a shop charge these days for a full front-end rebuild on a 96 Accord DX - new bearings, ball joints, inner & outer tie rod ends? Excluding brakes. So far I've spent $300 for parts.

And for Y2Phunk... I use moly grease to repack wheel bearings (when they're rebuildable). And moly powder on sealing surfaces and seal lips to lengthen service life.

Thanks for your comments!

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OkieDad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW... I wouldn't consider the old bearings "ruined" just because the cones came out. I pressed them back in by hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>It seems like that should be true, because it feels like they go back together OK. But when they've been pulled apart like that they don't seem to last very long.

bobfridae

I just brought in my 2000 accord and the guy wanted 250 to replace the front wheel bearing, installed. When he called me today, it turned out they had replaced the wrong one - the humming I have still was happening. It was a rear bearing. They won't charge me for the front, but I am a bit suspicious. Is the rear wheel/hub bearing easier to do for the 2000 accord? Should I expect the bill to be the same as if it were the front? Or should I balk if it is 250? I have a feeling they are going to try to charge me the same, even if it were not really the same price.

What is the difference between front and back. My understanding is that the front ones are sealed, so they can't be packed, but what is the deal with the rear disk?

Much thanks,
Bob

JimBlake

The rear ones are easy. If you have a torque wrench & if you've ever replaced your brake rotors, you can do those yourself. Get his price, but even tho it was his mistake, you still did end up with a NEW front bearing.

Front & back are both sealed, but the mounting is much easier on the back since there's no drive axle or steering.

I'll describe the procedure for you if you wanna do this yourself...

bobfridae

I originally was planning to do this myself. I've done the brakes before and my brother has done this before, so we were going to do it together. Problem is I need this done fast, because of a trip I'm going on, and I don't have the time. Do you have any idea how much less this ought to cost?

So, since the back is also sealed, I'm expecting to pay for the part (my guess is about $100 for that), but given that it is much easier, how much less time should the rear take?

Thanks again,
Bob

JimBlake

I've never been good at guessing labor costs...

I had to do mine ('98) a little while ago, $100 is about right for the part. In the front you have to remove the steering knuckle from the car. Then press the old bearing out, new one in, put it all back together. So maybe an hour less for the back? Home DIY takes more than an hour for that extra front stuff, but at a shop ???

bobfridae

Turns out that the rear wheel bearing being replaced did not fix the problem! In fact, to rule out tire damage, the guy tried 4 new tires and still no improvement. In the end, he has no idea what it is and I'm bringing it into the dealer. He said it seemed like every other wheel bearing wear that he has ever encountered (humming noise when driving &gt;= 30 mph). He wound up not charging me anything after all of that.

Not sure if anyone wants to speculate, but I'll come back with the final verdict sometime next week.

Bob

notoriousB

wait a minute, you just got two new wheel bearings and four new tires for FREE?

bobfridae

No, the tires were for diagnostic purposes. I got one wheel bearing for free, he said as I was leaving, so I don't understand how I got one and not two free, since he replaced the rear one too (I assume read and front are not interchangeable). He put my tires back on.