mojoGSR92

My car has a lot of quirky problems right now which I think are mostly related to misrouted vacuum lines. I just got done doing the physical swapping of engines in my car and now I am down to trouble shooting. Here are the specs:

Car: 1992 Acura Integra GSR
Stock engine: 160HP OBDI USDM DOHC VTEC B17A
New engine : 170HP OBDI JDM DOHC VTEC B16A

Here is the vacuum diagram for my car. I'm sure other people have done similar swaps, and I can't find vacuum diagrams for this particular engine at all. I have included a diagram of how my engine is set up right now, and it isn't running well. If I turn on the headlights, or turn on the heater full the engine wants to stall. It runs well when warm or cold besides this. The brake pedal also feels very hard and has no play in it. It takes a tremendous amount of pedal pressure to bring the car to a stop.



Thanks in advance guys, and any help is appreciated.

brinks

Where is the fpr cut solenoid? It is supposed to be hooked up the the regulator and is located right next to the purge cut sol. on the stock car. Each solenoid has individual electical connections, so they are controlled separatley by the ecu. If you only have one sol. available, make sure you use it for the regulator. I think it should be between the vacum source on the manifold and the regulator. I am assuming you are using the stock 92-93 sensors, solenoids and other hardware except for the manifold. The way you have the t going to the purge cut solenoid like that might cause problems with the regulator getting proper vacum.

Hyper9

the inline valve between the brake booster and the manifold looks to be turned the wrong way, it only blows in one direction so flip it around and see if that fixes your brake pressure problem, now what else is wrong with the vacuum system,, bog, lopey idle, what up......hard shitty idle could be from the MAP, other than that it should run ok. Brink made a good point about the vacuum source for the FPR, but there should be enough air going there....try, if you can, runing a T-fitting on a slightly less crucial vacuum source.

Hyper9

also if it wants to stall, are you using a compensator....on the older model B16's and ZCs and LS motors there was a compensator valve mounted on the T/B, when its cold it nudges the throttle open a couple more degrees. when you run accessories like lights, heat and AC you ever notice that in norml conditions the idle would jump up slightly when you use those items....if yours isnt doing that then you may not have it connected, or you may not have one. but it receives a vacuum also. I removed mine, so so it idles pretty low if i have anything running....around 500-600 rpm instead of 900. it shouldnt stall, you might also want to adjust your idle screw open a little more this should alllow the motor to run a little smoother at idle. HTH

mojoGSR92

Brinks, I looked in the Helm's manual in section 11-96 and it looks to be a B18B1 only sensor. Also, I went outside and checked and this has never been on my car and I haven't removed any sensors from the engine bay. Do you have a suggestion of where I should hook up the T-fitting then because I have one more line coming out than I have places to put it in, so a T-fitting is necessary somewhere. (Please keep in mind I labeled the vacuum lines just for this reason, so you can specifically help me) I also wanted to mention that this is a 2nd generation B16A and this is the same manifold that came with the engine, and is on the car right now.

Thanks for the brake check-valve tip. I figured that out on my own last night. Also for you hyper9, do you have any suggestions of where I should put the T-fitting if I shouldn't put it there? (Please keep in mind I labeled the vacuum lines just for this reason, so you can specifically help me)

As for compensator, do you mean a dashpot?

mojoGSR92

Here are some more pictures for you:












[Modified by mojoGSR92, 8:03 PM 3/15/2002]

Hyper9

yea instead of running the T fitting so that the main flow is cut in half run the T inline from the manifold to the FPR. in other words run the vacuum line directly to the FPR with the longest portion of the T in direct line with the FPR this should allow a better flow to the regulator....also i do mean the dashpot but its pretty obvious that motor doesnt have it....so its got to be something else in there that compensated for accessory load at idle

555R

anyone have the routing diagram for a 98 GSR into the 93 Si
my canister has a few lines not hooked up and i found one hose not even plugged or connected--hissing vaccuum leak
explained my weird hunting idle
but cant figure out the proper hoses for the charcoal canister

brinks

Yeah, I just checked my manual, the sensor is only on the b18b. Regardles, I would run the vacum line directly from the nipple right behind it on the front of the manifold, and tee the vacum for the PSC somewhere else. When we swapped a b16 into my buddy's teg, I had to try several different vacum setups to get it to run right, so with some luch, you will eventaually be able to fix it.

mojoGSR92

So take line #3 and #2 and make that one line without a T-fitting correct? Then I would have a direct and sole vacuum source running to the FPR from the intake manifold. Please correct me if I have misunderstood your suggestion. I also wanted to add that the car is running really rich and misfiring around around 1000-3000 rpm, but I haven't adjusted the timing yet. (I am sorting out an electrical short before I even start the car again, but plan on doing the timing first thing after the electrical problem.)

So now I'm in a quandry as to where to run the #4 line for the positive control solenoid valve (PCS). I probably don't want to hook that into the MAP sensor as I've heard that it is very particular about it's vacuum source. (I may be wrong) I'm not sure that simply capping it off one fitting on it would be a good idea.

Here are all my options now:
1) Splice it into 8 (Charcoal canister to throttle body)
2) Splice it into 7 (Basically routing the PCS vacuum back into itself, doesn't sound smart)
3) Splice it into 1 (MAP sensor's source of vacuum)
4) Splice it into 9 (Charcoal canister, Doesn't seem like a good idea, but I honestly don't know)

Thanks for the help so far guys. You have been a big help!
Now it's time to figure out why this happened (see below), and then I can get back to trouble shooting my vacuum problems.

mojoGSR92

Fixed the electrical problem. Only things left to do are figure out the vacuum routing, adjust the TPS sensor, and do a valve adjustment. Woo Hoo!

Still waiting on an answer for the above quote. Anybody have any insight on this?

mojoGSR92

Brinks and hyper9 disappear?

*Jonathan looks around the forum.*