MysticSpade

ok i have a 91 GS and i changed out my alternator a few days back. in the process of gettin it out i had to remove the Brake Master Cylinder. now i am tryin to bleed the brakes, and still no avail.

I am havin someone steadily pumping the brake for 5-8 minutes, then i have the hold it. Then i loosen the bleeder valve while they slowly keep pressin the pedal to the floor. I close the valve before the pedal is to the floor.

i have done this NUMEROUS times and still nothing. ALSO this is just on the FRONT.

GrayT

I just bled my brakes today in my 92. If you aren't getting any good results you might have to

1) Have a friend push on the pedal until hard.
2) Release valve, close as soon as the fluid isn't flowing anymore.
3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 until no air bubbles are visible.

Also if you are doing the front, you aren't doing the bleeding sequence correctly. I've got a GS-R with ABS, I did the passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, then passenger front in that order. It shouldn't be different than yours, but go ahead and give it a shot.

non-VTEC

you removed the brake master cylinder so you will need to bleed the front and rear calipers/wheel cylinders.

jack up the whole car onto jack stands and crack all the bleeders open and let it gravity bleed for a couple miniutes. top up the resivoior and close all the bleeders.

have your freind pump up the brake pedal a few times then start bleeding from the right rear. then left rear, right front, left front.

do each corner 3-4 times each until the pedal is hard. keep and eye on the fluid level while doing this and top it up when its getting low.

you should always bleed all 4 corners when removing the master cylinder and you "should" start bleeding from the furthest from the master and work your way to the closest. RR, LR, RF, LF

hope this helps.

MysticSpade

ok i just did this.

sat the ENTIRE car on jacks
bled each valve 5 times. THE BACK hadn't had all the old fluid flushed out yet tho. so i went until the color changed to the fluid it had in it. then i did it a few more times.

THE FRONT however had always been the new color and i is a steady stream all the way around.

and yes i STILL have no brakes.....this is severly pissin me off right now. this is the only car i have and this is BS.

GrayT

Take it to a shop, there is no doubt air in your lines. They have bleeders there that automatically do this kind of stuff in like 30 mins. It costs like $35 and you'll have your car back in your hands quickly.

Lord Helmet

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrayT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take it to a shop, there is no doubt air in your lines. They have bleeders there that automatically do this kind of stuff in like 30 mins. It costs like $35 and you'll have your car back in your hands quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>


you can do it all in 30 minutes max. proper way is: left rear, front right, right rear, and left front. that's exactly how the helms manual tells you to do it. because the honda system uses a 2 channel system in staggard formation. so if you lose the right front brakes, you still can maintain the braking of car with the left front & right rear brakes.

threatcon13

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


proper way is: left rear, front right, right rear, and left front. that's exactly how the helms manual tells you to do it. because the honda system uses a 2 channel system in staggard formation. so if you lose the right front brakes, you still can maintain the braking of car with the left front & right rear brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE> Actually you are wrong. The integra helms manual states 1. front left 2. front right 3. rear right 4. rear left

ingrate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrayT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take it to a shop, there is no doubt air in your lines. They have bleeders there that automatically do this kind of stuff in like 30 mins. It costs like $35 and you'll have your car back in your hands quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can get a similar bleeder here: http://www.motiveproducts.com/

$50 and you can bleed the brakes by yourself easily.

HiRevn

We need to get a definitive answer on the bleeding sequence here. So far there are three different responses as to the order of bleeding the brakes.

milo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiRevn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We need to get a definitive answer on the bleeding sequence here. So far there are three different responses as to the order of bleeding the brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you got it

ragejed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiRevn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We need to get a definitive answer on the bleeding sequence here. So far there are three different responses as to the order of bleeding the brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

milo, that is the old helms. If you notice that is the old brake fluid reservoir.
Here is a pic of my helms, the new one.

Stewie

When you get air in from the master cylinder is the bleeding proceeder different? Like don't you have to bleed the MC itself?

ragejed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Family Guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you get air in from the master cylinder is the bleeding proceeder different? Like don't you have to bleed the MC itself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, just keep bleeding one side till you move the fluid down more. The air will eventually make its way out on the break bleeding area.

jEE

If the car has ABS make sure you use a power bleeder.

Front brakes you can do manually but the rear brakes on a ABS system must be power bleed. ( Manual Bleeding for the back brakes just don't do the trick )

Thrillhouse

Do honda/acuras need the MC to be bench bled if they are removed?

MysticSpade

ok here's some things if i haven't stated them already

1991 Acura Integra GS w/ABS

now does ABS have to do anything with bleeding my brakes? to put it lightly i am broke and only have at best $20 to my name right now.

milo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragejed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

milo, that is the old helms. If you notice that is the old brake fluid reservoir.
Here is a pic of my helms, the new one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm.. so is the old manual wrong?? i've been doing it the old way and never had a problem w/ it... ~confused~

MysticSpade

ok i just thought of some things

when i FIRST pulled of the MC it apparently was vacuum sealed or something because i heard it pull air and then poooof hose was off and then i pulled the MC out. hose is re-connected and there's no leaks in the brake lines or the bleeder valves.

now i remembered when i went to put the MC back on the rod that's in the booster was wobblin a bit so i don't think it's in the MC "just right" but when the pedal is pressed fluid comes out.

there are no air bubbles in the MC or the ABS resevoir.

so once again i am stumped. but hey if any of you are near Seagoville TX and wanna help out PM and i'll give ya directions...LOL

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Okay people we got way too much conflicting/misinformation here.

The brake system on G3 Integras changed I believe in 98, when they switched to the smaller ABS pump, which was integrated with the main brake system's fluid. This was to accomodate the HID ballasts on 98+ ITR's in Japan.

Older G3 Integras w/ the larger ABS pump and separate ABS reservoir uses this sequence, this is NOT correct for later G3's:


I assume this is for the newer G3's w/ the smaller ABS pump and no separate reservoir (someone correct me if I'm wrong), this is NOT correct for earlier G3's:


I don't know how the G2 ABS system is set up, but somebody w/ a G2 Helms needs to look and post the proper sequence.

Also I see no mention on those pages about power bleeding being REQUIRED. Manual bleeding works just the same, just in a different way. Power bleeding being required is BS.

integradriv3r

Whats a powr bleeder or whatever that guy was saying that 92 tegs with abs needed?

Dan GSR

did you bench bleed the new master cylinder?

purplegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't know how the G2 ABS system is set up, but somebody w/ a G2 Helms needs to look and post the proper sequence.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is the G2 Helms bleed sequence, Patrick is right, they changed systems, so that's why there are so many different bleed orders. FYI - the ABS section for the G2 does show the power bleeding steps for the modulator reservoir as seen in the 2nd picture. If you can't see in the picture, the order in the G2 manual is RR, LF, LR, and RF.

97tegGS

DO you have the car running when you do this?

All cars with a vaccum brake booster the car needs to be idling and then do the bleeding steps.

vtec69

not to get off topic but do u need to bleed the brakes if u change them but dont take off any lines or the cailper or the master cylinder?

-=D0rikin=-

Actually dude! Its too bad you have already done this cause the easiest way to remove the alternator is from the bottom... Its located right above the left axle. All you got to do is disconnect the bottom shock absorber and swing out the entire router/calliper section and pop out the axle. then your all set to remove the alty...